clarkdef

I would like to see something quirky, like a golf cart or a street cleaner. Im dead serious.

What about using that mindstorm motor I forget the name, I know it's high torque at already low speed. That crawler screamed haha.

Good point, thought you were trying to kill my joy. Oh and don't tell Nicjasno that, you will seriously kill his joy.

I am stating what can be constantly drained from the battery, no lego motor draws 20 plus amp so yeah, also you can draw high amps through lego wires, you just need to stack them in parallel lol. You are right about the current limiter, but motors will only draw what they need, and two large motors won't trip it pfs current switch, the advantage is light weight battery box. lighter than that rip off lipo one lego sells. Also please don't tell us what lego is for, I see a challenge and it is stimulating my brain, that's the goal of the toy, isn't it?

I typed out a reply where is it?... You can draw a lot of current from these batteries, a constant 26.24amps, which will drain them instantly. I bought some and they are being shipped. Might pay to let me test them first as there could be an unknown with them. Not sure how they will fit in the pf box??? The plastic fins inside are very restrictive on room, plus no vents. Yes just put them in series, two in series 7.4-8.4v and three in series 11.1-12.6v. If you want the speed go for three, motors life span will reduce though. Can the motors in the buggy housing be replaced in case of failure? They look to be a standard sized motor.

3 cell lipo battery, when fully charged each cell is 4.2v that drops to 3.7v after time, but gotta test under the high volt scenario. Very powerful at this voltage, however I will not use my current lipo because it does not fit into the unit. I am looking at putting 3 of these http://www.hobbyking...o_Pro_180_.html into the unit, I have measured up and I am sure 3 can fit, at least 2 can fit without modification to the unit. I have done the math and this battery can deliver enough amps to power 6 buggy motors without a voltage sage, they will drain fast doing that though. Oh and I am not sure if anything will melt yet, I have a half broken unit, it was sent from bricklink broken . Anyway I am conducting tests with that unit, I will update on my findings, I can tell you that the buggy motors are very hungry, so hungry in fact they stall themselves as they overheat, this isn't good treatment, don't let it happen. To avoid this you want to make sure that they don't struggle too much, under a lot of load they pull high amps from the battery and over heat themselves until they stall. It's good to have a clutch, maybe wheels spinning in the tyres, using a lot of motors is good 3 can spin the tyres under most conditions. Avoid: Quick backward and forward type movement Trying to push something, like a tree! A hill that sounds hard to get up... gear it down! Or play it safe and use 2c lipo P.s the suspension I used is pretty ugly!

I really like this car, it has charm, what was the inspiration for a surf car?

Wide is nice and stable, but doesn't make good turns, don't ask me why haha. When I ran a previous car at 12.6volts it throttle steered which was nice, though I don't do it for long because I don't want to hurt the electronics. That play is annoying if you find a fix let us all know. I was thinking of gluing the tri peg onto the wheels! Well my ultimate plan is not to crash, but just steering was ripping me a new one. You got a decent sized battery on there!

That has a good width for stability, it does look strong. It'd probably beat mine around the corners. The hubs to me look the same as the crawler hubs (cut of the excess and it is essential the same). So the play should be the same? When you plug in an axle, you rid a lot of play. Haha also it's the ultimate test to see if it separates from the tie rods!

A rough overview of what I came up with the other night. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SHekv7CfUYs&feature=c4-overview&list=UUmGNbWRBJsu1XieU3aJ2zyQ Would like to try z3s setup once I get them hubs.

No I would say the postage would be too much. Will check it out though, is it lego.com?

Yes but after you work in the postage all the way to NZ, you might as well of just bought the car! But still good point. Looks great man, and wow I appreciate the effort you went to making this, looks like you have a touch of castor applied, which helps strength a lot. Though you have to put it through a grueling test to see if it works lol. I will post a video of the monstrosity I made, and show you my testing process. Yours is better than the one I just made in a few obvious ways. It is smaller, it has more travel so I could rest it at halfway and the steering system looks easier to fit to the buggy unit. Though other than the hubs (I use the ones of 8880 supercar) it looks the same as systems I have made before, I usually setup the castor by tilting the subframe.

If you see the sets on bricklink, boycott those sellers, or better yet make a list of them here. Because it is very wrong to do this type of business. I ain't into technic just to be a collector I am a engineer in training (lego engineer), I couldn't give a stuff about collecting what other people came up with. Sometimes when I buy a set, I don't even build it, just want it for parts.

I should probably just use four, six makes the car too big, a few of them need replacing because I stored them in an air tight case for years... and now they are rusted and make a lot of noise. I do want those new hubs, if merely to play with ideas.

I have messed around with gear boxes. they work awesomely! But in the end I think they absorb power as they heat up also you have to avoid many cog types to avoid breakages. I use direct drive mainly... I know it's boring haha. Yes very true. Thanks. I like the way "The Tudors" front steering system looks! 4 to 6 buggy motors direct drive is what I am aiming to use, it is very solid trailing arm on the units. The front is my real issue those hubs look the money to me, will have to get that F1 car! Doesn't have to be high clearance, maybe 2-3cm. Yes strictly rear wheel driven! Uni joints don't survive in the front... I would love to see your idea. And yes gear I avoid.

Well exactly, you need some bump absorbing. I ordered some rubber pieces on bricklink, I have a wild idea that probably wont work! The terrain is dirt. Very clever system you look to have, can't say I can see how it actually works. I gave up on front driven wheels because like you say not easy, the uni joints kept separating in the middle with high revs. It has forced me to use trailing arm on the back not independent control arms, the driven arms being two or three buggy motors, making it an extremely heavy suspension arm! Thus making it pointless. Your idea on chassis flex could be a good thought though. Yes speed brings lots of new and exciting challenges. Love it though...

Hello all, I have been developing an RC car, it is a hill climb car. Basically there is a section of hill in my area that I try to set a time on once a year around Christmas time. Last year the car was a power function car, with two large motors, it wasn't the fastest but I plan to evolve. The car had suspension, really didn't need it as it was so slow. This year is a different story, I have some serious power, 20km plus on the flat. Testing at that speed I have come to know that no lego suspension that I have come up with can handle that speed! The tie rods fall off and on turn in the wheels cave in. The purpose of suspension is for it to be functional, but it's just acting as a very weak link. I just finished a chassis today, I tested it and still same result, so in total ANGER I ripped it apart! So I am at the stage of dropping the suspension, seems pretty boring not to have it. though. This may be an interesting topic, so please share your experiences and frustrations.

I am curious of this too.Has anyone tried hooking 3 or 4 buggy motors to it? It may not be the unit that says no to the extra current demand, it would most likely be the batteries. I have hooked my buggy unit up to a DC power supply and 9 volts from that, destroys 9 volts from any battery, as it can have up to 25amps drained. Wouldn't hook more than two motors up to the unit when being powered by the DCPS though! Might burn out the transistors!!!

This info is always a huge help, in my understanding of how all this works. Cheers. Now time to study it.

No that's double wishbone, and yeah out of a r32. I used to own one, the system has no massive camber change in it's travel, unlike mac strut. It's a far better system than mac strut.

I just can't believe how good some of you guys are at making stuff, have to say I'm over envious.

Always wanted it myself! Never was in stores here, so the cat was all I had. Suspension looks like it might of been softer than the 8880, which is good, because technic suspension always seems to sit at full length, which is a terrible setup.

I would like to see bearing hubs, rigid link arms, solid steering and pivot points that arn't a mile away from the hub! All measures to reduce play in the suspension system. Not possible I know because it has to be a jack of all trades, still my dream.

This looks super fun, it ain't slow either! I thought you could of easily driven under that car lol. How do those cv joints hold up? I had uni joint on my hill climb car, but they just separate in the middle grrr... I just said stuff it and removed the suspension.

If you look at the crane itself and the leverage that is over the pneumatics how could it? Would make sense it struggling at full extension, those pneumatic pumps aren't strong. Not a problem just modify it with more pumps! Which I did. Btw when as any stock technic set ever felt ultra capable... None IMO that's why you build your own stuff.