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DrJB

Eurobricks Dukes
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Everything posted by DrJB

  1. Personal Choice: If this is to remain a race-car, I'd stick with speed over torque, unless you want to make it into a crawler (then torque takes over the priority).
  2. You mean this one? http://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=102657&hl=drjb#entry2060117
  3. Not only this is a valid setup, but it is also 'approved' by TLG. In the power puller, instructions call for using two motors in parallel in a manner very similar to what you've shown. Granted, the two motors will want to spin at slightly different speed, but they all have small variations in their torque-rpm curves and for sure will be happy spinning hand-in-hand, so to speak.
  4. Not always 48, it depends on whether you're using the old or new design. One of them folds back more than the other ...
  5. There are few MOCs I found challenging to build, but perhaps it was the limited instructions available, and I had to try few 'options' before coming up with the correct parts/assembly.
  6. Nicely done. You can make the contraption much longer with a 32L axle, but then that may be too flexible. 16L will work for sure (I think you're using a12L). Also, one of the major cons with these toothed parts is, they break easily. Two of the weakest technic parts TLG came up with in my opinion.
  7. The idea has been around for a while, especially if you've been following GBCs
  8. I have some trains and a fairly large layout. Though not commonly discussed on this forum, I've found the parts from lego ZNAP to be very useful for building train bridges and large sturdy structures. In fact, I'm tempted to say Znap had the predecessors to the current technic 15L liftarm. http://www.bricklink.com/catalogList.asp?catType=S&catString=152
  9. Thank you, that is indeed a very nice PDF. I discovered one more 'miss' about this set. The set does does not come with a Technic Figure and yet neither Blickink nor Peeron list it in the set's inventory. My mistake. See post #38 below.
  10. I noticed something somehow related to this. In LDD, if you put the 24t gear against the clutch gear, you'd notice that the teeth are NOT of the same thickness. I initially thought this was a mistake in the geometry, but now, and based on your post, the differences are real. Now, why would TLG change the tooth thickness/profile? The only logical answer to me is to reduce the backlash and increase the load capacity of such tooth. Any other opinions?
  11. Get the manuals for both from lego.com, they have all the info you need, and plenty of pictures of course.
  12. Mainly this: The A-arms are a must for steerable axles, and you can use basic liftarms for non-steered axles. I've seen builds with only liftarms (both steered and not), but they tend to get very bulky quickly. A perfect example is the old F1 racers from lego.
  13. I've only built the predecessor to this, a slightly smaller SUV and loved it. I've been tempted to take it apart and make into an Mk2, but refuse to touch the first one. It was one of the best builds I've had, the compactness of the build/functions I like very much.
  14. How do we measure complexity? One 'metric' is by the amount of connectivity between components. For only this metric, one can easily build connectivity matrices and based on how sparse such matrix, come up with an objective metric for complexity. However, degree of connectivity is NOT by itself a measure of complexity as one can add how elaborate the parts used are. For sure an LA would score more points than a liftarm. While we still have no metric, all statements in this thread are subjective at best. To me, the two most complex contraptions I've ever built were the 8258 Red Crane Truck (we all agree on this) and D3K's SwingLoader II. One thing I've sure noticed with Technic, especially going to studless, is that official sets/designs tend to be more hollow, and 42000 is a prime example.
  15. Either that or ... we're sticking too long with this hobby. For new comers, the Unimog, 42009 crane and 42000 racer were fantastic. For those of us who've been at this for a while, it's only repeats and 'upgrades' of prior sets. So is life it seems, even the technology used in real automobiles has matured (i.e., no foreseeable mechanical revolution), and the basic components (gearbox, suspension, differential) have not evolved for the past few decades. So, while it appears that sets are getting less complex (need a metric to properly measure this), I think it's got more to do with 'no substantial novelty'.
  16. I wonder, does bright green use LESS green dye than classic green? Could this be motivated by cost reduction?
  17. I can't help but just wonder as to how useful this piece of trivia is ... :)
  18. When I look at these MOCs I can't help but think of the time I worked for the automotive few years back. One of the big 3 tire makers was looking for ways to sell more replacement tires ... and they wanted to focus on 50% of the population that usually did not have a say in tire selection. Can you guess? Well, they presented few tires with sidewalls in womanly colors (pink, purple, ...) in the hope of selling more such tires to women. They even offered 'custom' colors to those interested in matching to their cars' color. As you may know, the white on some tires today is not painted, it is solid white encased in black rubber, and the manufacturing gets a bit pricey. Of course, the idea did NOT fly.
  19. Small Correction. The reason for this thread came from: I was looking at all my sets and realized there were many and what would happen if I were to move or if a fire broke up in the house, or if I were to downsize. Thus, I asked the question: Which 1/3/5 sets would you absolutely keep? One of the mods changed the title of the thread to 'Your favorite sets', but that is not what I asked. Maybe for non-native English speakers the questions are similar, but they are not. In fact, D3K understood the question in this thread perfectly, and he replied: I'd keep 5 sets that are all yellow, because he's into mocking and wanted the most part collection in a single color. Other readers thought I was asking after favorite sets. For me personally, my 5 favorite sets are NOT those I'd keep if I were to downsize. I know ... nuances. PS. After Jim merged the topics, your link refers to this same topic (circular reference?)
  20. the children museum of Nashua, New Hampshire might have some info. they did a reproduction of the whole downtown with trains and it's on display inside.
  21. What I'm talking about are FREE small sets/bags with NO purchase required. They used to run these over the holidays and in the summer, to bring more people into the stores. I am not talking about the ones you get with every $50 (or so) purchase.
  22. This is not new but, over the past several years there are tons of tiny pieces now in most Lego Sets, be it the lipstick for the friends' girls or other obvious examples. The other very annoying aspect about this is, if you have 'manly' hands, working with such tiny pieces is ludicrous, and such part get lost so easily. I've been buying legos for 20+ years and not sure I like this 'make it smaller' trend. Any other opinions out there?
  23. in all instances where I thought I was missing a piece, it was actually found in the crumbled bags after I looked again carefully. though, on only ONE occasion, I was missing a small piece, a blue flag from a basketball set.
  24. from the many 100's of sets I've acquired over the years, typically the spare parts tend to be the small ones, which can easily be lost. it's got nothing with erring on the safe side as, for a given set, the spare parts are usually the same.
  25. it is just their internal reference number for whatever PDF document you were after. all companies do this. when you download a PDF from TLG, have you noticed that it never has the actual set number, but rather some obscure series of alphanumeric characters? not sure any outsider can know for sure where those exactly come from.
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