DrJB

I should have been more specific. When I press on some hot-links, I get the following error message "There are no products matching the selection. A better description would have been 'empty' link as opposed to 'dead'.

Sorry, it was the first thing that came to mind.

I can't help but ponder at what'll happen to this fantastic MOC once the new pneumatics are released. Would we need to re-visit then and retrofit the longer cylinders? I'm personally tempted to put this project on back-burner until the new cylinders are available. I'm assuming of course that two such cylinders in tandem would develop enough force to lift the boom. Has anyone done such calculation and whether the needed pressure can be handled by the pneumatics?

We have a very harsh crowd tonight. Either that or 'bad' readers. The emphasis is on 'apparently' in my original post, that is why it is between quotes By your same token: 'Learn to read, before you make assumptions' If anything at all, this thread is highlighting ThirdWigg's Ingenious contraption.

It's part of the flex system 2900 @ Mark Thank you for sharing, and you obviously have done a lot with pneumatics. I must bookmark your brickshelf page and visit often.

I was not making fun of anyone, and my apologies if it came across that way. In fact, that is why I wrote 'apparently' when I asked the question. It may very well be that both axles are offset by L/2 (or M/2) and that gives the 'appearance' that it is a wrong installation, when in fact it is not. I agree the title is a bit 'provocative' and in these modern times of political correctness, might not be appropriate. I'm thus asking a Moderator (Jim?) to change the title to 'Apparent Mistakes'. How's that?

You're both correct. It's not a differential anymore if the two gears spin at the same rate. Unless of course (that is why I said 'apparently' in my original post), the axles going through both small gears are offset by one half width (one in, one out) and the bushing is attached to one of the axles only.

I stumbled upon the photo below on Flicker, and thought of this thread. It would interesting/fun to list some of the flagrant/obvious/wrong installations. Can you tell what's (apparently) wrong with the installation shown below? https://www.flickr.c...in/photostream/ Now, what else have you seen that "you think" is a no-no, at least at first sight? Edit: I'm not sure what happened to the title: I meant to write 'Misuses of Technic Parts' And, now I'm asking the MODs to change it to "Apparent Misuses of Technic Parts"

Well, it's more than a rumor. In fact, I just went upstairs and grabbed one I had, and below are a couple of pictures. I know this topic had been debated on multiple occasions, and it's difficult to reach a final answer, but one cannot deny the print on the back of the transformer ... unless it's a typo. The next thing is to hook up the output to an oscilloscope and put this to rest. What I do not recall however is whether I got that transformer with the Express Deluxe Train 4535-1 or with the Technic Control Center II 8485-1

Also, and if I recall correctly, the power adapter needs to output AC voltage, not DC. Gotta dig out my official lego adapters and read the fine print. That can't be, 50% losses for transformers? That's on the high side. Unless it's a cos phi factor missing somewhere: For DC machines: Power = Current × Voltage For AC machines: Power = Current × Voltage × Cos(Phi) Behind heaters, transformers are the most 'efficient' electrical machines as there are no moving parts/friction/losses.

It's a hydro-plane, I bet we'll see 50% of those claiming they'll make it float as well.

Agreed, I've seen enough 'errors' and 'mis-statements' that now I take BL's info with a grain of salt.

Agreed, and you've done a very fine job on the Murcielago. In all honesty, I built it the very 'hard' way. I was new to LCad LDView, and did not know of all the functionality and stepping option. So, what I did was to edit the DAT file manually (in a text editor) and remove few parts to get to see the inside, then slowly made an LDD version that I could easily manipulate (In LCad LDView you cannot click/edit). It was painful, but after I completed the physical build, I was exploring a bit more the DAT file (in a text editor), then I noticed the "STEP'' instructions and then found out (on the tool bar of the 3D viewer) that you could actually 'step through' the build. I realized then that there was a much easier way ... but it was a good learning/fulfilling experience. Agreed, who knows what 'impossible' contraption(s) those digital tools let you get away with?

The plot (and mystery) thickens ... Would be interesting to take all my manuals/instructions that had the large linear actuator, record those IDs, and see what one can learn.

Nice, would be interesting to know the actual sets (complete or near complete) in such a find. I was watching that same hot-flame, and I bet not many knew it had 2× RC motors. I was tempted to join the bidding party but resisted, as I already have 2 copies of such set. Enjoy!

Interesting. I presume parts are made at many worldwide locations and molds in China or Denmark have different IDs. What happens if the parts of a set are sourced from different locations, because of production capacity or target market? Do the manuals (and IDs) change then? What you're saying suggests that the element ID has in it 'hard-coded' a production run, that includes both the mold number and somehow production date. This might help with quality control/tracking ... interesting.

I reckon this might belong better under a different forum, though not sure where. My focus is also on Technic so, hopefully this is ok. If you have some of the recent manuals, there is a Lego ID next to each part in the parts-list. I was 'naively' thinking that some of the digits would correspond to the geometry, and others to the color. This however is NOT the case and identical parts with different colors have totally different IDs. Has anyone figured out a pattern if one exists or is this totally black science/magic/art ?

I'm not sure about inflation, especially in the currently stagnant economies in the western world. One thing I have not seen yet, and this is true not only for Lego but many other goods'manufacturers. The price of gasoline has dropped by 50%, yet except for filling up my car, I do not see those costs reflected anywhere else ... UPS and many air carriers upped their prices because of gas few years ago, and they're surely not going back to the old prices today.

I could not agree more, but, I've also built many MOCs from just an LDD or LCAD file, and in most of those (e.g. Crowkiller's Murcielago), the design is 'modular', a bit like 8448, and one can easily build sub-modules then assemble them together. Also, most those I've built are pretty 'open'. Whereas this astromech is rather 'dense', and approaching it by building modular sub-assemblies is no guarantee you'd be able to put them together. Thinking of a recent thread, this astromech is really a '3D' build. As Blakbird said, it's a real puzzle to solve.

Except that roughly 50% of those pieces and pins and small connectors (nails & glue) As for other themes (friends and else), it's ludicrous the amount of small pieces (easy to lose, let alone to assemble, if you have fat fingers)

What we need really is a 'proportional' valve, where the 'opening' is a function of position. With the current valve (almost digital), there is very little control (precision of positioning the lever), and to complicate this a bit more, there is large friction that makes precise positioning difficult. Yes, you can 'precisely' control the position of the valve by hand, but automating this is bound to be difficult. Lastly, I'm willing to be (pleasantly) surprised.

Talking about parts availability from Lego: Have you seen the price of the pneumatic tubing for the 8110? The longest is around $55!!!

You mentioned these But there is also the #4 yellow connector which showed up only once, in the Power Puller

I'm not sure I like the many white parts, in this plane, and the previous cargo plane. Granted it's not black/red/yellow.

I did figure out most/all parts and where they go, and I did build sub-assemblies. The real problem is, if you want then to put together those sub-assemblies, you end up with 'impossible' builds. Thus, a build sequence (stepped file) is a must here, at least from my own experience/attempt.