Jump to content

Carsten Svendsen

Eurobricks Knights
  • Posts

    654
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Carsten Svendsen

  1. Looks great, make sure to put small pneumatic cylinders - one at the basket and one at the main joint - to level out the basket when moving the upper arm. You can easily do this with a valve as an inlet to pressurize the system
  2. Looks cool, but I can help but wonder if the front module of the truck won't be too long by a significant margin?
  3. How did you fix the black parts? I don't see any pins or axles holding it together
  4. Bro, that's insane. It's like looking into a chest of gold, that's how shiny and beautiful this is. Be sure to make a video once finished eh?
  5. MAn I had completely forgotten about this masterpiece until now. I can't wait for the finished result
  6. How does the new module work? It seems fairly complicated. I thought it would work with a differential that detects when it grabs a ball, but there is none.
  7. I haven't seen this creation until today, because anything that remotely mentions "Tatra" "4x4" "Car" "Mobile Crane" or "Tank" I completely ignore as it's always mostly the same anyway. Yet, here I am and I must say that this is far from what I expected to see. Now, I'm not in awe just because of it's size as anyone can put together 6000+ pieces for a big model, but I'm in awe of it's complexity and the different way you managed to execute a lot of the functions. With such a big model also comes a lot of questions - Just this picture alone rises a bunch of them What's with the blue 3L pins? there must be a reason as you clearly just could've used normal black pins 5L axle with red bushes? Doesn't look that great, 3L axle would've been sufficient seeing as there's a 3L pin holding it together as well Whats the 2x red pin with bush used for? It's just sitting there doing nothing What's the spring for? What is all of this rope stuff doing at the front? It doesn't look like it's got a clear purpose And finally, why are those pieces in the middle on an angle? You need to do a proper showcase for it as well, you know, a video 'cause man, am I ever interested in seeing what you actually crammed in there. Also, even if you wrote a list of the functions, I still don't know what half of them do
  8. Hi, this part has been bothering me for a long time now, as I just can't seem to think what purpose it could possibly have This part could easily be replaced by a normal 3L beam and two pins right?
  9. Seems to me your best option is a 3- point linkage like it appears in the Unimog set
  10. @BusterHaus Yeah, I'm not quite sure that I get it, maybe it's the fact that he quickly swipes it, rather than slowly because the camera can't keep up, neither can my eyes.
  11. After a couple hours of testing, I have finally found the solution It is not intuitive at all, and would be so much easier with a text based LOOP(IF, THEN) coding You need a Sequence for each function (motor/output) and a circuit to combine them both. The starting button must be the last to be put in the app so that it covers the other two buttons so you don't press them by accident when transparent (would be cool if you could change the order on the control sidepanel though) Remember that the sequence switched by the circuit needs an "opposite delay" equal to the delay it took to trigger the circuit in the first place, in my case that is 1 second
  12. Does anyone know if it is possible to do sequence programming and if so, how? I tried with the sequence and step function but it doesn't work at all like I intended. Basically, I just need a couple of motors to complete a set of start/stops on a timer, via the push of a button What you see below are two channels controlling each motor. I know there's an error in the "knifes" sequence, but I can't be bothered redo it and screenshot it again. Anyway, look at the graph above. Am I on the right track or completely off? When I tap the pink button in the app, the "bale turner" motor runs very slowly, the longer I hold the button the faster it goes. Similarly, when it's at 100% and I hold the button, it slows down gradually to 0 and then nothing.
  13. Not to mention that if you don't need some of the motors to turn in both directions, you could implement a direction splitter with a differential, meaning one direction turns one output and the other direction turns another output.
  14. Hi, a little update... I installed the turntables as wheel hubs, and I'm not very impressed with the performance. Sure, the wheel is a bit more stable, however they turn horribly under pressure. Is it recommended to grease them up? If that is the case, I have to get the two halves separated which proves impossible through trial and error, leaving me no choice than to buy the halves from bricklink. Is this normal, and what are other peoples experiences regarding this matter?
  15. I see good solutions here, but some of you forget that the power puller rims only have 3 holes + the center, so fixing it is more complicated. I have however found a solid way to attach it, so thank you all for the help
  16. Nah mate, you shouldn't stack all those bricks on top of each other like that; it's too heavy Jokes aside, it looks good, maybe a bit more system oriented than I would like, but still has technical elements to it. I was surprised to see the gear rack facing upside down, I never thought about doing that before. Also, can I ask why you didn't use the proper frames for the motor, seeing as that would seem optimal in a system car like this?
  17. That looks something along the lines of what I was thinking. I never though about putting another tyre inside the tyre to stiffen it up. I'll do that, 'cause my MOC's a bit on the plus side
  18. Which is my point. You failed to give me some examples however....
  19. It never occured to me to use turntables. Thank you, I will be using the big turntable with teeth on the inside
  20. What I'm using now are these hubs And they are alright for smaller wheels, but for the big power pullers, there's like a full centimeter travel on the outer edge of the wheel. I tried putting an 8L axle through and hold it to the chassis. It sturdied it up without weight on it - with the weight of the vehicle on the wheels, the result is the same. What are the alternatives for a proper fixing?
  21. Ok, I get the lines of the body is important and to keep panelwork consistent. One thing in particular I was thinking about is something like the below scenario. A bunch of stacked beams and a flex axle going across. Is this considered alright, or is there a better way to get the curve looking right?
  22. If you want technical, go for sets with lots of functions. 8455 Backhoe was a real blast when I was young, so many functions, very complex too. 9396 Rescue Helicopter has quite a few functions in both models. Also it's something different than your regular old supercar 42054 Claas Xerion 5000 had some great surprises for me. On the outside, nothing special, but the way you change between 3 driving modes is so cool 42055 Bucket Wheel Excavator is a great set. With it's size comes many gears. Lots and lots of gears, and mostly densely packed. It's a very fun and challenging build. There are other sets that I'm really fond of, but none which have a very "technical" aspect to them. Kinda like 8466 4x4 Off Roader, great set, looks amazing, fantastic B-model and great playability. I spent weeks with that set when I first got it, I even carried the instructions around with me as bedtime reading, haha. But in all seriousnes, you should look at older sets for technical aspects as back then, it was more about playability and functions rather than big part counts
  23. I can't help but feel the tractor looks too small with those wheels attached. Maybe it's just me... I'll be using those same tyres and building the same Claas Xerion 5000, though different functions, and I'm going much bigger
×
×
  • Create New...