Carsten Svendsen

Hello everyone I haven't posted a new MOC in a long time, mainly because I haven't had the interest lately. This thing has been with me for years now, trying to get it to work, and it is one of those projects that causes so many headaches and will never work properly, no matter what you do. So this video is the result of straight up agony, and I do not think I'll be revisiting this again. I haven't disassembled it because I hadn't got the time before putting all my LEGO in storage for a few years. So "enjoy" my failure See a few photos here But maybe let me tell a bit about this contraption as if it had worked alright: The first challenge was to figure out a soutable gear ratio. I chose to make the 2nd fastest (orange) the 1:1 gearing from the motor as then the slowest was still able to spin somewhat comfortably. The size of the circles and spacings are all a function of the LEGO brick arches and discs. To get the arms in the right location, I had to offset them by 0.5 studs, which was easy enough with some 4-pin connectors with axle hole. Then the challenging bit - designing the gear ratios to also fit inside the box. It looked like there was a lot of room, but I had to use many more gears than what I thought, so this wasn't so easy either. Also here, I had to space them by 0.5 studs. I had initially only planned to power the red (the fast) ends which would be 3 motors, but there was just no power at the slow end when I did this, so back to the drawing board. I then decided to power each side from either end, which meant I had to add gearing in the small corners - 1:1 for one end, and 1:5 on the other, in some cases. The slow end was the hardest to figure out and need quite a few more gears. Now for the fun part, to see if it works! Turn on the motors and yup, everything is running at a different speed, as I expected. This is not good, as the axles will keep twisting more and more, or gears will skip. So I had to figure out a solution to sync them up. I went with Power Up, and no matter what I did, there was no way to sync them up in software. I had to write my own code, and I'm not good enough for that. It would work sometimes, but mostly just with 3 motors for some reason. So in the very end, I decided to link them up physically, but this was a challenge in itself. They are long distances, what's the best way? I ended up with the ol' steam engine solution and just multiplied that by 4. And it works great! As long as nothing is stalled anywhere, because then gears will tick over and over. In the video, you can hear this, and it's probably because those gears already need a replacement. But it is so darn hard to do. Lastly, decoration - this was already decided on well before I was halfway through with the project. It had to bricks, because of the arches. Building the long panels was easy, but building the corners took some more skill. Not too much it turns out - I looked for help here in Eurobricks and no one would help. What seems simple to you, may not be simple for me. Anyway, I ended up with some lightsabers underneath and some clips to hold the corners in place. They aren't perfect, but I guess nothing in life ever is. Also the large panels move around all the time, I think the tolerances on those arches aren't actually perfectly round, they seem kind of oval. What went wrong with the demonstration though, was that a CV joint on the backside had popped out, and so the whole left side of it wasn't spinning to begin with, thus being the source of most of the issues shown. And then I also only bought a pack of 24 marker pens, when I needed 25, luckily I had one extra lying around that fit the 1x1 LEGO dimensions. And acrylic is not cheap! 2 sheets of 0.3mm each. But I guess that's nothing compared to all of the black panels, liftarms and plates and bricks that I had to buy. Failure all around. If anything it was a good learning experience.

I understand what this is and I vividly remember this post. However, what constitutes an incredible MOC worthy of HOF ? So many factors and decisions, many people will get jealous. I understand why it hasn't been maintained. This is not what I'm looking for though, which you would understand if you read the conversation going on above.

I'm just gonna bump this topic for the mods @Jim @Milan

Everyone writes their topics differently, so I don't think keywords would work at all. UNLESS, you're forced to use tags as is already implemented, however, relying on users to correctly label their topics are impossible, unless forced to choose from premade options before being able to post, like Reddit is for instance. Then it would be a simple matter of having admin rights to edit every relevant thread to include the correct tag afterwards.

I am not at all interested in cars, as it's always just another gearbox on wheels with neatly arranged panels. I want to see interesting contraptions, farming equipment, construction vehicles, artwork and so on. However, that is really hard to find on here unless you're visiting at least every few days which I'm not. I'm suggesting a pinned thread with a categoric list of all (finished) creations posted on this sub-forum. That would be a tremendous amount of work to trawl through, and since I have nothing better to do, I'd like to take on this task. However, not unless it would be approved in the first place. I don't know what kind of admin tools are available, or search functions, but it would be helpful if I could exclude any TC entries, set discussions and WIP threads entirely. If posted by me, it would be my post/thread so I could maintain it. However, that is clearly not a long-term solution as I can't always be guaranteed to be online, at least weekly to update the list. Maybe use google sheets or something so everyone with permission can edit if needed? Of course there are some logistics involved and formatting concerns, so if Jimmyboy approves, let's have a discussion as to how we can best do this.

Basically, build the subframe, then attach panels haphazardly to find the dimensions. Then with it as reference, build the car. This is a first iteration. With that as a reference, build the car again, but properly for real this time. You are done. Here are some ideas of what designers do.

Can confirm, works flawlessly and is 100% in "click" Unfortunately, liftarms have a different bend angle than the #4 connector, so they won't work. This will be rigid but only to a certain weight limit, as the 2L pins will start to give out.

I usually search through thang's youtube for ideas in these cases: https://www.youtube.com/@thang010146/videos Maybe something like this

You don't need this part if you don't have it, just build something with technic bricks and use 12T bevel gears. Same thing.

This is by far the best option. Just use axles, it's less friction and more quiet than a train of gears or chains

Sigh, how I wish Sergio didn't die prematurely. And no source code released either....

And what have you tried so far? We're not just going to make your program for you Have a look here for code block functions: https://racingbrick.com/powered-up-code-block-guide-full/

I thought the film would be useless if you took it out of it's casing in the light? Decent result though.

Depends what you're doing. The bars do fit in the 2 outer holes of the thread, but with no clutch power what so ever. They do not stick. In the middle hole however, it does stay, but I wouldn't call it a reliable connection. Especially since if you're planning to use it on gears like an actual chain, then the bar won't stay in either.

8465 is studded and a small front axle. But if you need it to FWD then maybe look at 8880 Regardless, you're going to have to use quite some technic parts for the actual wishbones, and studded for the frame.

That'll work fine as long as it's the beveled turntable, not the new one just being produced now.

Without an image of your current build, it's going to be nearly impossible to come up with ideas. Maybe some of my own previous designs can be an inspiration?

Clearly, you've got a very limited amount of parts. Wishbone suspension and standard axles on CV-joints would do the trick much better. And springs. If you don't have any of that, then sure, you can use gears, but you also need a differential in the middle so that the vehicle can turn properly without skidding.

Hello, I'm building a technic model at the moment and I just need a way to fill an 11,5 x 11,5 stud wide space on its own. Don't worry about mounting options, I'll figure that out. I initially thought of using plates and tiles but it looks bad if it's higher than the main surface, so it could only be 2 plates thick. If not for the weird size it would be a breeze to figure this out. Ideally I'd like to continue the yellow trim around the edge. The main surfaces are floating and will be moving around slightly, so this filler block cannot be attached to them.

Hello, I'm having issues again. I need a solution to transfer circular motion around corners. For the top motors, this is easy, just a hard linkage. For the bottom two motors, they need to be connected to each other as well to the top ones. It is to synchronise the motors so that they all run at the same speed constantly. I thought maybe convert to piston movement and then a corner piece but I think that would cause too much slack and wouldn't work anyway. Then I thought about creating a fork that kind of slides back and forth, but it wouldn't ever be locked in place to the current rotation.

Hello again, I'm still struggling with this stupid app. All I want is to start/stop motors with a button and control the speed with a slider. It shouldn't be that hard. So right now in the program below, when I start the program, the motors spin initially about one or two rotations which is annoying and I wish I could disable but anyway, I start the motors with the button and I can control the speed forward and reverse. So that's good, but when I press the button again to stop the motors, they just keep going. I can only stop the motors when the switch is on and turn the slider to neutral. How do I fix this? Also, the speed dial doesn't work, it only displays zero. I'd like that to work as well.

Why did I never think of that? That is a great idea for the small stuff. I have so many half boxes just taking up lots of space for spare parts as well.

I have these from before when my lighting was bad. Now it is not required, but they give great light output. I put them behind the desk https://www.bunnings.co.nz/arlec-2-x-20w-3200lm-led-worklight-with-tripod_p0206011

I have recently moved and am finally getting my setup all completed. All I am missing is just some labeling tape for the organising drawers. See spoiler for more details I have an entire A4 piece of paper with stuff I want to modify on my fastbale, so don't stay tuned because that is going to take a while to do. I might do a new thread of the progress. But first I have to finish the other project that was supposed to be a quick and easy one and, well, nothing's ever easy is it?

I just remembered a thought I had about half pins. Why are the 1½ pins called ¼ pins and the 1¼ pins called ½ pins? It is so confusing sometimes. Anyway, my thought was that the half pins (¼ length) seems to hold half liftarms better and way more stable because of the friction. If using ¼ pins (½ length), the half liftarms wobble around a lot. But is this considered bad technique?