Carsten Svendsen

I'm at the point in my build now where the last thing I need is bodywork. It sounded to me like it would be the easiest part of the build, however it is also the most important as it has to look exactly like the real thing. What makes this so difficult for me is that I've never really done any proper bodywork on my own before, and to make matters worse, the shape is so odd that it can't be easily replicated with panels. I was thinking about using a mix of panels, short liftarms and flex axles, but even then, there's going to be gaps left in the body. All I really wanted from the members reading this, is to tell me what the process is when you start doing bodywork and what kinds of compromises you have to, or feel comfortable to, make.

This is quite cool. The amount of effort going into that video is also paying off quite well. I can't wait to see what you'll be building next

Sorry, I have a danish disc that works perfectly, no english though. Don't even try and find an image of it online, trust me, I tried.

I've never seen this project before, probably because last update was 4 years ago, but this is pretty cool. Using string for the pins, I would consider cheating, but man is it ever clever.

Trust me, it feels like this more often than not. Dang it, the farm boy guessed it from a mile away. That is correct, it is indeed a straw baler. I basically only need to build the red side panels and a few minor elements, so keep an eye out! Haha I like your idea, it does indeed seem rather chaotic, but it's not really from my perspective

I was looking through my pictures and found this one that looks really complex and interesting. I will probably be finished with the model by Christmas time, and I'm so exited that I can't even wait myself.

You should have a look at the Bionicle set Axalara T9. I've built it and it's pretty cool, but there's lots of repetetive steps and special elements related to Bionicle.

Looks alright, but if you actually build that in real life, you'll probably find that the smalll cylinders are not going to carry the load.

Indeed, this is one of the better creations I have seen. I can see how it all works, except the rotation of the top part. I can't see how you get that to rotate. It looks pneumatic, but then how do you get it so precise 180° movement? Also, I'd love to see how you made the triangle

I like the style, but the liftarms rotating are really taking the beauty of it away. Consider replacing that with a ball pump

I have a ton of those size panels already and none of them have these marks. These are the first I've ever seen with these marks. Also, it's not just on the back, the images clearly show it on the front too. I put it in the bright light to catch it better on camera, but even in person it's very noticeable anyhow. The panels that I already have are from sets at least 3 or 4 years old. I have none from the recent years. And the panels I have are probably made in Denmark rather than Germany where I bought them from. I'd say it's a quality control issue. EDIT: I reviewed my other panels and I have to say that they have the mold marks too, but not in any way as noticeable as these ones. So I'm wrong, but - I also noticed that the new ones I got are very shiny, where as the black ones I already have are matte. Maybe that is why it's easier to notice. Are they not using the same plastic?

What gives? I bought these from a reputeable Bricklink seller. They've been underway for a week and a half but surely it's something with the mold? The mold numbers are mostly all different, I counted about 6-7 different molds.

I don't like clickbait titles on a forum, you could have just titled it "bear trap". The moc it self looks alright, the video on the other hand is just beyond cringe worthy. If you want slow motion, actually film it as slow motion and not just a 1 fps slideshow. The egg part I can understand, but I didn't need to see the same for a banana - I get the idea, it's a bear trap after all. I stopped watching at that part, I couldn't handle my suffering anymore.

To insert pictures, upload them somewhere else on the internet. On the bottom right when creating a new post a button will appear: "Insert other media" Then you click "insert from URL"

All good, I have found a solution to my problem. See below. I would like to point out that the idea with the arcs worked out nicely, I wouldn't have thought about that myself, mostly since I didn't really know they existed and fit with a radar dish that well. Thanks for the help

The only thing that I tend to put too much effort into is the orientation of full size bushes.

I just had a genius idea seeing @supertruper1988 post If the 6 x 6 radar dish fits on top of the 8 x 8 radar dish, then I can just install both dishes on top of a black brick base and have it look seemless, with no effort going into making arcs. The next problem would be to make the arm 4.5 studs long, but this is actually not too critical as the actual dimensions does have a little playroom, it will just be visually out by 0.5 studs. Worst comes to worst, I'll find a way to make the arm 4.5 studs long. If someone can test whether the 6 x 6 radar dish fits on top of the 8 x 8 radar dish making a seamless gap, that would be great. Also, What is a cheap way to make a nice looking black base? I have a significant amount to cover and wouldn't want to make my self bankrupt.

Hi guys, I'm a technic guy and knows nothing about SNOT or parts availabilty regarding system bricks and would like some help on a simple matter I have a 4 stud arm that is rotating in a circle making effectively 7 studs total. What I want is a frame, or base if you will, that encapsulates it so that I can put a color underneath, making it look like I'm tracing a circle. The problem is that I don't know if it can be made with arcs or slopes or wedges or what, and my system brick inventory is very limited, so if you can help me out, I would highly appreciate it :) The outside would be fixed in place and the center would be fixed to the rotating arms, meaning it spins with the arm. I think a 1x2 technic brick with axle hole would do the trick for that.

1: 4 3: 2 5: 10 6: 1 10: 6 12: 3 I gave entry #5 10 points because I like the complex functionality involved, same with entry #10's gear box at the top.

Do you have any results? What are you making?

If you swap the white z24 and normal z24 around, you will get more torgue delivered. Looks good so far though.

It's not wormgears, this is 100% XL -> z12 -> corner -> z20 -> sprocket As you can see the 5x7 frame is in the way of the XL motors output. This means in order for it to be a wormgear, the gear on it will have to be either z8 or z12. If that is the case, then that gear would have to be in an odd position with 0,5 stud adjustment, furthermore, you'd need a connection from that to the sprocket which can only be accomplished by z12 + z16 which is doable, but remember that you're also 1 to 1½ stud away from the vertical axis which would mean you'd have to use a gear ratio that doesn't fit between the frame and the XL motor it self.

Why not just skip the inverted part and make one that looks like the video further up in this thread? That way you could just install a bunch of actuators on the bottom and I'm sure it would still be a cool ride.

@Rishab N The depth of the center cone part, between the rim and the axle, is 4,7 mm deep. The lenght of the axle is 15,7 mm long The thickness of the whole rim is 3,1 mm thick The very outer part of the rim is 1,4 mm thick You're welcome

Have a look at the turbo polyp that @Techniccrack is working on. It's got the kind of movement that you're looking for.