Carsten Svendsen

This is what I imagined it should be like: As you can see, the motion is going up and down in synchronization, and it's straight in the middle at all times. Now, what I don't understand is that the "tail" seems to bend more downwards than upwards. I have no idea why, but I'd like the motion to be identical in both up and down movements. At the end of the "tail", there should be made a mechanism like in the "Da vinci Flyer" posted above, to simulate the fluke. The next step would be to make this motion possible both like above, and sideways. This could be done with flex axles instead of liftarms, but the possibly difficult part would be to assemble it all in one giant gearbox.

I also found a rotation mode bug. It's a simple construction, but I assume the logic to re-create this would be hard to write. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=opayLemwCt4&feature=youtu.be This is how it should work:

Major bug: I made a model (not too big fortunately) and wanted to save it, but then I'm met with "Cannot save to Application folder. Choose another destination". Pressing OK just brings back the same pop-up and holding down enter doesn't work either. It keeps popping back up, thus making it impossible to save to another destination.

It doesn't matter what size it is, I was figuring perhaps 0.5 - 1 meter in lenght. The important part is that it is as functional as possible

What you describes there seems to fit with the video of the da vinci flyer mechanism. This might just work with enough links! I just have to experiment a little first. I already mentioned above in my 2nd post that this will not be correct. It might work, but it's the wrong end that moves first.

I'm not quite sure I understand that idea. Cams that are linked with flex axles I understand, but what with the motor driving it? You want it to increase/decrease in speed constantly? I don't think that's necessary to make the desired effect. I only have 4 flex cables from a couple of Cybermaster sets, so it's not like I can recreate the theory. I can't use string or rubber bands either as it needs to be flexible sideways and stiff "lenghtways"

The problem is that a dolphins (or any other whales) tail moves from the body, and the fluke will follow later - Just like if you were to pick up and swing an electrician plastic pipe. With the dinosaur solution - I've also seen a heavily modified LEGO version - and they both consist of motion starting at the tip instead of the base.

So, I was thinking about making a dolphin in technic (I've got no experience in "real" LEGO what-so-ever, and it's got no functionality either), and my first concern was how I should make the tail. For those of you who don't know how a dolphin swims check this youtube video If I have to build one, I want to make it function like the real one. I was thinking about using two motors for the tail, one motor for the jaws, and two motors for the head. There's no problem in fitting it all, it just depends on the size. But the tail has left me wondering; I want it to go up and down like the real one, which requires a lot of links. If I have to use one motors for up/down and one motor for left/right, then how would you combine all those links to work fluidly? Is it even possible?

Oh I thought you meant the fake motor / engine! Yeah, I'll give you credit, that looks so weird and ugly!!

I haven't got the 9395, but from what I can tell on the building instructions, the motor seems to fit easily?

From what I can see, he's got a gearbox at the back for the 2 crane functions, a gearbox on the left side for legs+rotation and a third gearbox for the two gearboxes just mentioned. Then he's got a 4 speed transmission in the driver's cabin. Dunno how he get the snowplow working though. I think it's a great looking truck with many nice functions. Marvelous!

This is awesome! Is it possible to use connection solver on them too?

These are awesome! Especially the first one

A more direct link: http://www.hackvandedam.nl/blog/?page_id=559

As Dluders said, Sariel uses ROBOTC which is a program by it self. Download it, and copy the code from sariels to your own program. You need to update the bricks firmware in order to download the program to it though. Really, RobotC is a really easy program to work with, just type in what you want it to do. There's a lot of example files and tutorials included in the download as well.

No, atm I'm very busy with school work and I won't continue until after christmas I didn't know it was possible to get heat shrink in this size, I'll look into it. It'll surely be the best option if it's possible

LEGO has no say in the media at all except if economy is involved. I don't think any dane see themselves as proud because LEGO was invented here. It's just how it is. Our own LEGOLAND isn't even the biggest in the world!

I just downloaded the latest version (7.5.2) and the conn library (deleted existing folder first) and I can tell that you have made big changes in how the [Technic] --> [beams] are showed so that it's more easier finding the right part. You have overlooked 1 part. Well 2 imo. - Part 33299 is still hard to distinguish in a quick search - Part 6575 is just called "Technic Cam". I know that it's called cam on bricklink too but couldn't you add some more tags to it like "beam" and "liftarm" which will make it easier to find. I spent nearly 2 hours the first time I had to find it. I can put in some tags myself since it's editable with notepad, but the tags are erased on every new update so.... I tried the draw brick feature after I found out I just had to doubleclick anywhere to activate it. Because I only create technic models the draw brick function only works with axles, which is a nice shortcut. after #12 axle, a #15 beam will appear and then a #32 axle. What about the other beams? I suppose this feature is only targeted for bricks, if so, could you either improve or remove the feature from the technic regime? You may say you have updated the pneumatic parts but I still can't use connection solver on them which is quite essential for any connection to work properly. I await the fix with tension! Personally, I don't use the blue circle with a yellow dot in, it's way easier to just press "enter" or "return" (same key, different language) instead. I find that blue circle very annoying most of the time... well, all the time, so if you could add a tickbox in preferences for it then I'd be a happy man! UPDATE: I just found out that the blue circle doesn't work at all. Couldn't you just remove it completely then? I also seem to experience many occasions where I can't select a part simply by clicking on it. I'd have to drag it first before it becomes selected. All the above is tested with an empty project so see the improvements.

I'm totally in awe, this is an awesome moc, I've never seen anything like it. I'd like to know how to make a sequential gearbox though. What if you keep pushing up on the remote, does it keep switching gears then? Awesome feature with the liftarm showing the gear number too.

I don't think that the idea posted above would look that good. It would clearly work, no problem, but it'll be sticking out from the side another 2 studs and that would interfere with the wheels, and also with a potential rider's legs. Is it even necessary to make it go faster anyway?

Some? Weren't I the only one? I agree what everyone is saying, I don't like only negative comments on my models either, but since this post was about the mechanics of a simple steering wheel I just generalized anyone who does this. Either do it right, or don't do it all. I didn't want to insult the creator of the model (which I obviously did) but it's a bit late to say I'm sorry right?

It's a cool little model, that's sure - but where are the foot pedals? Otherwise for you

Wow, that boat looks really great. I've never seen an actual boat in technic before but maybe that's just me.... Awesome work! I like the LDD of internal mechanisms. What are the 2x 24 tooth gears + knob wheel used for?

I know the solution is very simple, but you chose not to do it for some insanely weird reason. It wouldn't take 5 minutes to add a gear and rearrange a few axles. There's a lot of space in that model. I never said it was a bad looking model or anything, but when you put all that effort into building a cool car, then why not make the steering wheel work correctly while you're at it?

The answer is that the person who build the model(s) with a steering wheel like seen in you embedded video, is either a noob or doesn't know anything about vehicles.