Carsten Svendsen
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Everything posted by Carsten Svendsen
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My worst MOC? Well, that's probably these models on the table on this old picture: The green thing was supposed to be an alien inhabitant on a strange planet called Zenos and the "tank" was supposed to be in an army that wanted to conquer the planet. The army failed because the animals living on the planet faught back. They weren't aired in the video though (no wonder ) Really lame to watch, but fun at the time http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WqTJaqvSom0&feature=youtu.be -
You can easily build a magic carpet, but you won't be able to animate it in SR 3D Builder since the rotation points moves.Other than that, it's an awesome program for any creation, much better than LDD once you get the hang of it.
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Definitely following this topic
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1: I don't wanna make an RC plane, I wanna make a LEGO plane with the possibility for flying if using the right RC motors/batteries. 2: Yeah I'm gonna purchase another micro motor so I have two to put in the wings for showcase. I'll also install lego engines and lego propellers for the same circumstances. 3: The only non-lego will be, as already mentioned, engines, propellers and two servos for the wings, so saying that this isn't a LEGO airplane is a bit excessive don't you think? I'm gonna try some different methods for coating that can easily be removed again without damaging the parts with sticky stuff. The frame is not poor. It might look weal on the pictures (haven't checked) but it's a lot stronger than what you might think and it'll resist the forces, no problem. No glue will ever be needed to make it stay together, ever! 4: Wrong parts for an RC plane? - yes. Expensive? - yes. But that's the cost of a hobby. 5: You're partly right. Luck alone won't get it airborne, but I have used a lot of luck on building this thing and I think I might need a refill for the initial testing. So quit your bitching until I'm at least somewhat finished. Then you can say "I told you it wouldn't fly", but this ain't the right time. Yay, a nice comment for once Thanks, it really is an "awesome" moc, but I can't make it more awesome than what I'm showing you guys without any input on what could be changed or redesigned. Disappointment is just another factor of the building process. I don't expect it to fly the first time either, that would be damn lucky ! -------------------------- Regarding batteries, I could just purchase more than one for each motor and double the available current for the time needed in the air. Thought of buying some positioning lights for the plane too at some point
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I'll still try and make a test shrink first to see if it's possible. Don't wanna melt my multi-dollar project in one go
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Guess I'll have to purchase a real model airplane and practice with that one first. It's just seems so easy; move the throttle stick up and use the ailerons for banking, elevator for up/down, and rudder for turn. How hard can it be? Guess I'll find out...... How do I know if the motors are out- or inrunners? Hobby sites tend not to write it. I know what the difference is between them though. I wonder about the batteries though. Motor charts state that they draw at least 50A and a 5Ah battery makes the airplane airborne for less than a minute? Variable pitch control is out of the question then since it's way too advanced. Composite things are made in a mold right? I don't know anyone who knows someone who knows someone, so I probably won't be able to get a 6 bladed propeller for cheaper than VERY expensive However, it's worth an email to someone - recommendations? Or should I just go with a 3 bladed even though the model is wrong then? At least there's something I'm good at - And that's building LEGO. As soon as I'm done with this thing I'm gonna build something else that's easier to manage and that I have the pieces for. I haven't been building on anything else than this plane for 2 years now That's why it's going slow atm. I'm getting tired about it and can't concentrate that much anymore (completely random connections and skewed angles), so I'll take it one step at the time atm. That, and the winter season, I don't like building when it's dark outside (bad indoor lighting). It'll be done soon though, no worries.
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More or less, yes. It's for my airplane and I needed to know if I could use some Oracoat/Oralight to coat it with. Ok, that's good to know since ABS has a melting point of 105°C. The above mentioned stuff needs 90°C to shrink, so I guess I'll have to be a bit careful when/if shrinking. Maybe the plan is to try to make custom elements. If you can heat the plastic, you can maybe join pieces together for rapid prototyping of a new type of connector maybe? Once you know it does what you need, you can then submit it as part of a CUUSOO project, perhaps. That is, if CUUSOO includes Technic. Nope, that's certainly not what I had in mind, read my first comment in this post.
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Now this is one the few model team trucks that's really awesome. It's so cool
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I thought that a metal propeller would be the best since it's quite sturdy and rigid - bear in mind, I have never had or built an RC plane before. Found this website while searching for Kv on the engines. It's got some information on the propeller used on the Antonov AN-140, and I don't understand a single thing of it http://en.aerosila.r...n_content&id=35 I wish I had found this information much earlier in the starting phase since there's an exact measurement on the propellers. 3,75 / 15,65 = 23,77 cm which is pretty close to my measured 22 cm on the blueprints. What luck! I wonder if someone is able to get the necessary blueprints of the propellers for an exact duplication. Regarding the servos, I thought of two possibilities: 1 - Have an RC servo control a separate PF rechargeable batty pack with the cost of adjustments like in the video. 2 - Install a 9.6V battery on to the RC reciever then put a resistive load on the RC servo cables. Then mod some PF cables to fit in the RC receiver. That would make linear voltage increments for the LEGO servos. Or perhaps this image could help a bit in reconstructing the propellers. I don't know what the angle of attack should be though, probably somewhere in between feather and unfeathered. Is it even possible to make model propellers work mechanically like that? I guess I could add a tiny servo motor to the throttle channel to adjust the pitch of the propeller?
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I was thinking of some custom made propellers made in metal. I have no idea where I should order those though - An suggestions? For motors I was thinking of either EMP or Leopard as they look good. I konw nothing about this stuff though. If no one here knows anything, I'm gonna make an account on an airplane forum. and ask there for getting the optimal performance
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I have now incorporated the servo motor into the rudder. It turned out that the 32L axle used was a tiny bit twisted and therefore the rudder will return to the exact center when idle. Cool eh? The really tricky part will be to attach the horizontal stabilizer with rudder movement. The elevators will be 6L in total width so I hope there'll be some space to make it fit. Here's a video of the rudder in action: Are you still sure about the flexibility of the tail? Elevators (the horizontal tail mobile parts) push up and down, and rudder (the vertical flap) push sideways. They actually create surprisingly little force (the plane is in the air after all, and it only needs to rotate the pertinent axis) So you should be ok with what you have.
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I know that normal bricks are made of ABS plastic, but what about technic elements? I would assume that axles and beams are made from another material than ABS. Connectors, joiners etc. are probably ABS. But I also want to know what a "safe" temperature of the various elements are? I can't seem to find anything on google
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Gotta say that this project is quite awesome. I love the way you implement all of the details, and the way you use studded bricks. Simply amazing :thumbup:
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Set Falling apart while trying to build.
Carsten Svendsen replied to Savage Oppress's topic in General LEGO Discussion
I sure have. The wright flyer made a big hassle for me, so I ended up glueing the whole thing together (not that I could use the parts though - I'm a technic builder) -
Thank you Blackbird, for the calculations and min. motor size. This will come in handy Videos of the wing test will be available once they're taken How many pieces? I dunno, but for that I will have to build it in SR3D Builder first to figure that out. It'd also be awesome with a computer model of it. That way, I can rebuild it if it ever becomes a scrapyard for other models
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I thought the motor was able to lift it self, but the rotational forces would make it impossible to stay in flight. I think you're able to get it up if you put a pair of propellers on a wing at the right size.
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I don't see the big problem here. I thought there was only one way to fix tubes to any connection. For the easiest way to put them on, just push them, by holding the tube a bit away from the mounting point. By doing so, you will create a bigger hole in the tubing as it's squeezed together and thereby making it easier for attaching. Disassembly is another story though. With the old tubes you could just pull them off, but with the new tubes have to take them off, starting at the base of the connection as not to make them 0,5 cm shorter.
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The whole plane is built in LEGO. The only non-LEGO parts are, as you know, engines, propellers and control system. No one else can say that they've built a model airplane in LEGO that is aerodynamic, stable and looks like the real deal and actually flies if adding powerful enough engines and propellers.
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The weight was 4,15 kg last time I weighed it. That is not counting any batteries and (servo)motors. I assume maximum 5 kg Wingspan is 155 cm chord lenght at fuselage: 19cm chord lenght at tip: 11 cm The very first shape somewhat matches the wings I made: http://en.wikipedia....of_Airfoils.svg
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Yes to your first question. Well, the 6 channel hardware was so much more awesome than the 5 channel hardware and it was on sale too, so that's why I bought it over the 5-channel hardware. Besides it's nice to have an extra channel if something unexpected comes up :)
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I'm glad I purchased a 6 channel controller setup because I just remembered that I should need a channel for the nose wheel steering too I made a few changes today regarding the landing gear and back of the plane. I added a few springs to main wheels for a better management of the landing gear. When the pressure in the system becomes low, the springs will help keep the landing gear retracted. I also experimented with how long the connection between the nose wheel and valve should be since the previous solution of a 7L liftarm could make the connector fall off the valve easily. Furthermore, I have fastened the tail triangle connection better to the main chassis (not in picture) and removed all the stuff that would make it more hassle than worth, when I'm about to install the servo motors. I thought of making a 1:1,667 gear reduction thereby making the total degree of movement 60°.
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See line 100 in LL-lib.c for an example. You have to exchange "byte" with a number you prefer. Also read the info in LL-demo.c starting from line 30 beforehand. Furthermore, you will have to exchange all "port" references with the corresponding port you're using for the Line Leader. I'm certainly not an expert on this and since I don't have the necessary hardware I can't help out out that much, but try the above first as I'm pretty sure that's what you're looking for.
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- Just purchased a DX6i (AR6210 reciever incl.)(on sale too) for control and 2 small servo motors for testing. Now I just await my orders from BL before I can get any further with the tail. Building the rudder first and then the elevator wings second is far the easiest. In the meantime, I think I'll optimize the landing system. It's just not right yet.
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Elevator works as a single surface, there is no need to separate it into left and right. Ailerons movement is mirrored, either mechanically or electronically, so it uses only one receiver channel. Otherwise you will have to have very unusual handling on controller - two sticks for two ailerons. Oh, I thought that I could use the ailerons + elevator when taking off and landing, and both again when turning/rolling for maximum control. I see this is not how it works irl. Then I only need a 5 channel setup which makes it far cheaper :D
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I saw the video. I don't think my plane can handle such a crash... I have no flaps on this airplane at all. Replace every reference I made about flaps with ailerons, I must've mixed those two up. As far as I understand, flaps only increase drag, which increases lift when taking off. Finding a long run-way is no problem and integrating that on all of the wing would certainly not be possible (Or else the wing should be 3 studs instead of 2, thereby breaking the scale) I need a total of 7 functions: - Aileron, left - Aileron, right - Elevator, left - Elevator, right - Rudder - Landing gear - Engines All those are outputs, do I need any inputs to the controller, or is that configured in the hardware used in real rc planes? I've ordered three servo motors on bricklink to play around with. I forgot all about the pushrod method - still, one servo is needed all the way at the back.