Carsten Svendsen

I don't quite understand what it is you want. Don't you have a physical model of the current state so we can see the exact problems?

There are some things I've always wanted since ever. First one: A part that can connect two beams that has got ½ a stud offset Second one: A part that can connect two beams that has got ½ a stud between them. Up until this point, I have relied heavily on my substitution skills and the pole reverse handle

Long time, no see! So I've had a break since last because I needed some time to get the headaches to disappear caused by this plane. Anyway, I've finally completed the nose wheel landing gear mechanisms, and those will be the final evolution of that part of the plane. No more changes. It's no secret that I've had some problems with this part. The opening and closing of the wheel compartment gave me a slight hassle but not as much as the lowering and raising of the wheel it self. As you can see in the next picture, I had to put some 5L Liftarms on the side in order to keep the mechanical arm controlling the flex cable in place. I also had to resort to big cylinders since the smaller ones were way too weak. The front cylinder controls both of the front doors, and the middle and rear cylinders control the rear doors. Then, I came to the front wheel. Ooooh what a hassle that was. First, I asked for help on the forums - nothing. Then, I had to come up with various solutions my self because apparantly, everyone here is too stupid to even try coming up with solutions. I tried using various linkages where the pneumatic cylinder was placed under the pumps. Then I tried fiddling around with a scissor mechanism because it could expand and retract a lot with little space, but it was a no-go too. Then I tried placing the cylinders under the door cylinders but that didn't work either. Finally, I came up with the solution you'll see on these next pictures. After I had done that, I had to find a way to control the two valves needed in order for all this to work. That was a bit difficult but I came up with a rather ugly solution, but hey, it works. The green rubber bands aren't really needed, but I like to get my valves fully switched and use that last millimeter of space. After I had made that it was time to integrate the new switches I made a model of previously. No need for a picture of that though. I also used the new 8-tooth gears all places needed so to keep it stable at all points. Some of the older 8-tooth gears had already bent some teeth here and there. But I also made the spring mechanism better so that it won't cause as much stress on the gears anymore. I've made a demonstration video of the landing gear in action. If you don't know what the valves do, you forgot to watch my last video, or you just skipped through the explanations. I've added a valve on the right; it's for the nose wheel it self. I won't be assembling the front and the rest of the plane until I'm done with the tail. The reason for this, is that if I do it and I find out that I have to take the front off to rebuild something, I'll have a thousand hoses going in all directions and I really don't want to bother with them until the last part of the plane is finished.

He build it with his mouth? o.O

Update: I found a solution, but it's only halfway done. This next part requires some extraordinary thinking which I'm not capable of. I still think that ZBLJ's linkage is a superior solution, but I can't figure out how to incorporate such a mechanism. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Attached you'll find an L3B file which can be opened in both SR3D Builder and LDview (perhaps other similar programs). Pretty much every object in that file is final except the bottom most liftarms that's placed inside the frame. These may be changed or rearranged or whatever, you just need to make sure that the vertical liftarm is properly attached afterwards. Hinge Problem.zip

If I may add, there's no other obstacles in that area you see on the screenshots, except the fuselage. I don't care how it's going to be tipped, but I'd prefer that the linkage system makes a "lock" so that it's not only the pneumatic cylinder that's holding the wheel up. EDIT: The lower 2x9 liftarms can be removed, giving an additional 7 studs headroom under the pneumatic pumps

I don't have much space to use and the servo motor needs to be lifted from the bottom and up totaling 90° radius. The servo needs to be lifted with pneumatics. I've built this model in SR3D Builder to show you guys. It's not really many pieces so anyone could build it IRL and try to make out something. It should be easily recreateable from the pictures. I'm pretty clueless and I don't know of that many different mechanical solutions with 4 different liftarms or so, so I'm asking for help in hopes that someone would help me

I don't know if This'll work, you just need a valve placed at the red Y-split that's moving with the drive shaft valves.

You should definitely try out some C+ programming - RobotC is what you're looking for.

Only one actuator for that massive bed?

I'd say, that if you can't afford new LEGO sets, you should start saving. In a few years when you have sold many of those sets, you'll start to regret ever doing that. It's better to just save some money and then you can always just purchase the sets on Bricklink (if they haven't become too old (price))

That looks good. It seems to be really compact, would it be possible for you to take a close-up photo?

How are you keeping the car on the track? I've been wanting to build a really big one for some time now, but gave up because I couldn't make the cars work in any way.

I have a million power adapters lying around from all kinds of old tech. If you have too, then take a look for some 12V ones with a relatively high amperage rating. Then you'd just cut off the end and put a PF cable on to it.

Are those 6 receivers for the drive only? As in they all are the same channel?

Speaking of NXT, check out this site I just found. It has got so many awesome things for any NXT http://www.active-robots.com/robots/lego-mindstorms-nxt-accessories

You don't have to purchase a paperback though, you can get a PDF file cheaper from nostarch

I'm afraid you'll get some trouble finding sharp enough LEGO pieces to make a razor

Now that's pretty cool. Nice fluid motion

Interesting read I don't plan on building it yet, it was just a thought that came to mind. I would like to say that in those tests performed, the liftarms could handle average 250 N which is 2450 kg - Brick beams are stronger I don't know about you, but I don't think that amount of force is ever going to be realistic on a model. Remember that there are multiple connection points, it's not just 5 meters of floating liftarms. Then there's all of the wire

Cool, the fact that there are so many different version is pretty cool. However, because these are so "small" it'd be awesome to build one in minifig scale. 5 meters of liftarm is going to weigh a lot I think?

I have known this thing existed for quite a while. I don't know if anyone has ever built it in LEGO, but I was thinking of doing it in a minifig scale so that it could be displayed at events in the main display. That'd be epic If no one has started building this thing after I'm done with my airplane, then I'll do it and spend a shitload of money on belts and liftarms

Discharge time depends on which source needs power. The E-motor won't run for 5 minutes Everything in this set i PF-compatible

It's also a lot more ugly I don't think the pneumatic bracket is rare, it just seems expensive: http://www.bricklink.com/catalogPG.asp?P=53178&colorID=3

First of all, you will get no other bricks than electrical ones and 6 propellers. The battery is weak, like really weak. It takes no time to charge via solar and no time to decharge. Solar cell is cool for small models with wheels E motor is somewhat like the large motor,but I can't really say as I haven't used it in MOC yet