Carsten Svendsen

Do you have any progress to show me?

I'm not planning on building a track for GBC but something very different. The bend-ability on the hoses ordered is really great, just like the LEGO hoses. But you are right, 3.2mm is better since this hose is sliding inside the pins. I don't mind that though, it's still perfect for my purpose. The last tubing you linked to is really expensive so that's a no-go. I have no idea what material to look for so you could easily fool me.

It's clear? Oh well, It's not like I can't build a track just because of that

I don't know what the sound might be, but on my airplane, the cracking sound came from two knob-wheels by the motor. This was because the liftarm frames they were connected to wasn't secured together proberly and so, the 2mm gap that they could move was enough to make a sound and sometimes even stop the XL motor from turning.

.2 mm? That's so little that I wouldn't even notice it! Besides, I'm gonna put in inside a thousand of 1/4 pins so I don't care about that small fact. Still nice to know though....

Nope, I've got black too

I ordered one too last week so I'm just waiting

Doesn't the car or truck become extremely wiggly with those things are used for suspension? And it is rubber afterall, it will extend itself if under stress for longer periods of time, meaning that they eventually won't fit on the axles and could pop right off.

Don't forget to save often though. Sometimes when you do certain things in a certain order, or perhaps wish to use the hose/tube function it usually crashes....

That's because most of their designers think it's easier to do that, and I've read on the technic blog somewhere. I find that very hard to believe because, as you say, it really is much much easier connecting beams while all the pins are on the same beam

I would also recommend SR 3D Builder. I's an awesome program and very easy to use once you get the hang of it (like every other programs).

If you go to your settings on bricklink you can tick a box that says something like "Show weight in shopping cart".

Then, the only parts that would keep the wheels on the car would be 2x 1½ pins. The car itself doesn't need to be sturdy, but the wheelbase does.

The problem is that I need a wheel that fits the largest arounda pin joiner and it seems that only a combination of train wheels are best suited as they fit halfway around the joiner. The T-beam has been outruled as a way to attach the wheel as they overlap the gear rack that prevents the car from falling down the hill if the chain lift fails.

I'd rather order parts where they're the cheapest

I am going to use 3mm rigid hose to connect the wheel through the 1/4 pins and the pins rotate really well I didn't notice the T-beams where inside the gear rack I made a few changes to the model. You're permitted to come up with solutions yourself though car.zip

Sure, here you go. You're not allowed to change the way the links are connecting the cars. All other parts you may change if needed but it obviously still requires a chain lift mechanism - Perhaps it can be made more compact if needed be. I'm not certain on the length of the car, but as long as it looks realistic enough it's fine.

A bit slow with the water but otherwise a cool creation

No I don't have an LXF file but an SR 3D file. You don't really need one either; all you need is 2x 9L liftarms with a distance of 10-12 studs (whatever looks most realistsic). As already mentioned, all my brick-building capabilities consist of extremely simple techniques and not the advanced stuff I see on houses/trains/trucks etc.

It still looks awesome though

Since this is the technic room I don't suppose many regular brick-builders are looking here so I posted my request in the discussion forum instead. http://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=74445

Lol what? Now that's genius, I've never worked with gears that aren't aligned along a 90° axis. Nice

I imagine that the long threaded thing is the rail and the big wheel is the one rolling. But, in order to work, I would need to turn it 90° to get it lying down and the 4 smaller wheels still wouldn't roll on the rail. If only it was that simple.. I've ordered some parts on BL, so in a couple of days I'll see which solution I'll choose

I forgot to mention that there should be enough room for the chain lift mechanism like the one I've build below. This is not final, just a quick moc-up EDIT: I don't think it would work with the engine crankshafts either; When the train comes up the hill and over it, the front car will still be on the chain while the other cars are pulling it downwards. This means that I could just exchange the crankshafts with an axle #2 old style (3704) EDIT2: I don't care if you haven't got the pieces in red, I'll order the correct pieces at bricklink when/if you'll come up with something.

I want to build a rollercoaster car and I've got the wheels done. Now all that is left is the body and for that purpose, bricks seems like a suited choice. But... I don't have any experience in that at all and I've basically only got technic bricks with holes. That's why I ask of someone who is willing to spend a little time building a car matching the picture below. This is what I was thinking about, you're not allowed to change any of the links or wheels, but the 9L liftarms. The colored parts beneath are the rail it needs to roll on Thank you for your time