nicjasno

There's reasons why nobody does it like that in real life applications. :) Usually only 1 shaft per axle. The rest is done via hydraulics, or rods. Good idea, but what happens with the not quite half stud space at the bottom when load is applied?

There were also far fewer sets back then, since many sets remained in production for 5-6 years and only 1-3 new ones were added each year. They really started to produce a lot of sets since the turn of the century. Speraking out of the top of my head... there were maybe 40-50 technic sets released between 1980 and 2003, but we got as many or more in the last 10 years alone. With the increase of quantity, the quality somehow dropped. But not always. There'll always be gems that will keep collectors busy.

Also. It is now, after i have built those 3 that i realise how very complex the modern technic sets are. I have built those 3 in extremly short time. :( I remember building the 8860 took a looong time when i was a kid. I built it far too quickly to even start enjoying the build :(

It is on my want list.

8848 was/is by far one of my favorite sets of all time. No idea why. It has a certain fascination and the way they made all the functions work is truly amazing for 1980.

All 3 combined, including shipping (3 different sellers on bricklink), was about 230 euros. After i got them i polished and washed all bricks. Had to replace some, but now they are in as good condition as possible for 30 year old lego sets. They look and feel like new.

Here's the dropbox galleries of the 3 of my favorite sets from my childhood that i got myself for the holidays this year: 8848: https://www.dropbox.com/sh/6sfv3o4zrdidicf/A_JbYqzqTe 8859: https://www.dropbox.com/sh/ni7ayujar6ge6wt/g1HhDDED45 8860: https://www.dropbox.com/sh/345f5em27thc36r/yTjiKDACMb

Due to the bendability of the parts, this one is actually pretty easy to take apart.

What you want to avoid in ANY drivetrain: - friction - big angles of CV and universal joints - unnecessary torsional binding when the whole thing starts moving and force is applied (limited slip differentials are excluded from this) All of these are irrelevant of the vehicle type that you are going to make.

Finish the e30, make model for TGL proposal, 2 new engines for LPEpower, stuff i don't know yet :)

I have assembled mine today. Here are some pics: https://www.dropbox.com/sh/6sfv3o4zrdidicf/A_JbYqzqTe

Yeah. Do not sell 8043. You will only regret it.

The white panels would be nice for vehicles (f1 cars, e30 :P )

Here's the LPEpower method: https://www.dropbox.com/sh/y7uk9v9qwhuhh4i/3CB1ajuZIu

I'd use a one way clutch.

Will have to wait for the nurnberg toy fair.

Making car unibodies that are stiff is better with studded bricks, but making the exterior, engines, suspensions, gearboxes and all other technical bits is much much better to do with studless.

I prefer to combine both, to use each where its most appropriate and exploit the strength of each.

The older stuff, at least the bushes, half bushes and gears, was much more brittle and prone to cracking than today.

As far as i can see, the parts have not become flimsy. But some parts are not well engineered (looking at wheel hubs for example). Studless is the logical step from normal studded building and allows for much more complex models within even smaller size constraints than in the past. I quite welcome that. :)

Same here. Nothing really that i'd lust for.

Studless isn't better or worse than studded. It's different. I like to combine both, to get the best of every system. Studded for best rigidity of the chassis, studless for all mechanical parts.

I gifted myself 8848, 8859 and 8860 this year :P

Smaller boxes are always good.

Indeed :)