nicjasno

I have started collecting the sets from 1980-1994 and while i like my parts and boxes to be in great condition (i even polish the bricks, to remove as many scratches as possible), they are all packed in quick seal bags and ready to be built whenever i or anyone feels like building them. Lego is for enjoying and building, not for being left unopened and unplayed with in the box.

The bionicle balls will fit much better in those sockets than they do in the bionicle sockets. Also, as long as there is no slack (and i have yet to meet a bionicle joint with slack), it's all ok.

efferman: the 8880 steering part is useless. It's flimsy and allows only double wishbone suspension setups with no kingpin. The point of this new hub is to allow basically ALL suspension types, with or without advanced angles. Having ball joints molded to the hub is wrong.

That doesn't help at all. Making the die for the mold is the expensive part.

I have now thought long and hard about the hub and there will be some modifications to its design necessary. It'll have to be 5 studs high, and the stator needs to be only 1 stud thick. We'll also model some possible applications of the hub, so that we can better debate this on examples. I'll definetly need some input from you guys on how to design this further. Expect more renderings this weekend.

If those outer axle holes were pin holes, the wheel hubs become useless. The whole point is that there is an axle hole precisely there. This way you can mount connectors needed for multilink setups, macpherson struts, elevated wishbone mounts and so on... And if you wish it to function as a pinhole, you put a bar through it.

True, they did need some sanding down in my case. But this is not going to be a problem with the hub, because the part streches enough to allow for smoother movement.

Think of the bionicle ball joints. And keep in mind that i have a setup like this on the mustang :

They wouldn't pop out as easily as you think.

Absolutely.

The disk is indeed fixated by the rim, a tight fit and it can also be pinned to the rim. Substitute the rim for 2 pulley wheels and it is perfectly fixed.

The axle can pass freely throgh the hub. :) Also, the brake disc is the ideal mounting point for helicopter blades, don't you think? :)

The rim design is not that important. We just designed the spokes to have the widest possible application range (from muscle cars to modern cars) and because we needed to see how much room would be in the rim for brake calipers and stuff. I'd be happy with one universal rim of this size that has the same inset as this one. The dimensions and proportions are taken from an audi a7 4a rim, though we didn't want to incorporate its design elements to not make the rim instantly dated (something that the 8448 rims got horribly wrong). I already thought of improovements to the hub design (minor stuff of course). The ball joints popping out shouldn't be a too big of an issue and easily solvable. I see no reason to use small ball joints if we can use those wonderfull underused bionicle parts. Big cars, big balljoints. This hub also opens the oportunity for new formula 1 and racing car designs, since it fits inside the silver champion wheel. :P If there was a ball joint integrated in the hub, it would extremly limit its use. Something that even lego understood with the new small hubs from the 42000. Also, as mentioned before, this hub is also usefull for helicopters. I would also like to make some sensible hole arangement on the brake disc, so that it would also be used in various applications, not just as disc brakes.

Maybe. it still needs some work.

I'm not sure those parts would be 3d printable. The tolerances are just too small and precise. They do need to be injection molded. And lego are the only ones capable of doing that.

It fits with the new sleek panel design. Well, i'm sure the small wheel hubs have a lot of potential. But no. Haven't considered a smaller scale. This system was designed to allow people to make real super cars. All other things are there. The only thing that has been REALLY lacking all along was this. A proper wheel and proper multipurpose wheel hubs.

No idea. Keep in mind, that this is just a rough prototype. But i have designed it with compatibility in mind. It can be mounted silver champion rims, to 42000 rims but not the unimog rims, because they're just too damn small. Bionicle ball joints can be mounted on all 4 corners of course, as can be normal connectors for the normal small balljoints. With this you can also make ALL suspenion setups. Double wishbone, macpherson, multilink front and rear and even live axle designs. I wanted to make it 5 studs high, but there would not have been room for balljoints in multilink setups. The rims have also been designed to not only be very deep. One of the main goals was also to not repeat the mistakes made in the 8448 rim design, which was instantly dated and doesn't really fit any model and can't be mounted to the wheel hubs. That disc is not for decorative purposes. The render just lacks the pneumatic brake calipers. Precisely.

The drive is done with the 8880 CV joint piece of course.

As discussed in This topic, i had an idea for the ultimate wheel hub. At the same time, lego also needs new wheels. And while we're at it, why not add some more features, like a disc brake :) The hub itself also has provisions to use the bionicle ball joints as steering and suspension links. The wheel itself has the same width and diameter (including tire) as the 8110 unimog wheels and is finally a low profile design with a big inset to allow us the freedom to design any suspension type we want. So i employed my good friend IceBone, who some may also know from my videos, to help me put the design i had in my head into digital form:

They need to be redone, without ball joints of course. I have a design in my head to make them proper. The thing is, that the rotor part needs to have the 3 pin connector as the new wheel hubs, and it needs to be insertable the same way also. Similar to how the helicopter blade part that fits the 8880 hubs is designed, but without the poisbility to slide out without depressing the 2 notches (like in the new lego wheel hub). The stator itself needs to be symetric, with a solid half stud thicknes, not the soft thin 8880 style and it needs to have axlehole attachments on all 4 corners. I'm undecided if split by one stud or together. Will make some drawings tomorrow.

I am trying to build just that :P

The potential for saving weight is enormous. Any bricked structure will be both heavy and weak. Panels are tthe way to go, like in a real aircraft. :)

The wings need to be as you did them, of course. I'm talking about the fuselage itself and the engine/landing gear housings.

I agree, hubs are a good idea. But not those hubs. And the CV joints have a much too limited movement range.

You need to use the technic panels more and less bricks. Kee it as light as possible. As of right now, this thing looks awfully heavy already. Panels, the liftarm frames and liftarms are your best friends in reducing weight.