nicjasno

Put the springs inside the piston.

rm8: if he lowered the roof by 1-2 studs, it'd make the whole model look longer.

The roof needs to be lower. And the sides of the hood and deck lid don't really need to be sloped. Also, try to use narrower wheels/rims. The new crane wheels would be perfect for your scale.

Disc brakes are completly out of the question. There's no room for that at all and no proper parts. All current attempts are useless. Better have drum brakes on the side of the rear differential if you really want to stop the car.

The front and rear mounts look the same to me. i see no danger of falling apart.

I think the pins are much better than the axles. Nothing is going to fall off. Great idea. The axles will just create more slack in the suspension.

Use the new 6 stud long wishbones. The old ones are 5.5 studs long, which is not good, because the small steering links are 6 studs long.

The steering is now how it should be, but why did you omit the suspension?

Also, what's up with the flexible connection in the middle?

Oh, When turning they don't stay paralel ofc. When i said "when weels start turning" i ment, when the vehicle is moving forward, not when the vehicle is making a turn. My mistake, sorry.

Noted. But i have made my fair share of lego suspensions. Most of my smaller models have had HoG steering, and i have put them through their paces. What you're probably referring to when you mention that when the wheels start turning, the steering arms stop being parallel, is the slack, that causes the wheels to toe out when the car is moving forward. For that reason, you just give it a slight toe in when the suspension is unloaded, to compensate. When viewed from the front, if the wishbones and steering links are properly positioned, they do remain paralel to eachother throughout the entire travel distance. Having said that, with normal lego steering links, you have 3 options. To have the wishbones either 6 or 9 studs long (which is the selection of steering links lego offers), or, to have it angled to compensate for, let's say, a 8 stud wishbone, with a 9l steering link. If possible, the first scenario should be used. The toe in/out is adjusted of course by moving the rack a stud or half a stud longitudinally in either direction away from the paralel position and/or by making the steering rack wider/narrower by a stud/half a stud. Often a combination of both. If you get the steering right, and even combine it with some caster, the fun factor when steering it with a HoG steering syetem increases immensly.

Please... Making a precise and stiff suspension (stiff as in no slack, nothing to do with springs) in lego is hard enough. Why would you deliberately make a sloppy suspension even weaker?

Keep it simple. A normal double wishbone will do just fine. Lets first simplify this and get some stiffness. MinusZwei: very well. Looking forward to the next revision. Yep. That must always be your guide. Especially the second point, since a kingpin is not always achievable. But the pivot does need to be as close to the center of the wheel as possible. Otherwise you have a hard tome controlling all the forces acting on the wheel.

Yeah, but lego got around that problem by using stering arms that are very long, so that the steering has a huge lever. But that is remedying the symptoms, not removing the cause. And i don't like this approach.

Steering is light and It suddenly becomes very fun to drive.

Yes. At least that. Place them on the side of the differential, like this. And you should move the pivot more to the outside, closer to the wheel. Watch my unimog video to get an idea: You would of course use wishbones and ball joints to achieve the kingpin. If you need help, i can prototype an axle over the weekend to show you what i mean. When dealing with big loads, having the pivot as close as possible to the center of the wheel is of outmost importance. And you want it to be as rigidly connected to the wheel hub as possible aswell.

This is not good. The steering pivot is so far away from the wheel, that it'll require a ton of force to steer this. And i can't imagine what any weight will do to this. Also, the axles will just bend. The brakes can be put inboard at least, on the side of the differential, so you can mount the wheels directly to the wheel hubs and get at least some rigidity. The middle wishbone is also not necessary.

Everything. Make an analysis of the forces that are in play here and you'll see. The simple thing is, that if the steering arms are paralel to the wishbones, the only forces involved are in the transverse direction through the steering rack. If they're angled, the forces on the rack and the chassis greatly increase for the outer wheel (in a corner) and the inner wheel is on the verge where it starts flapping, because the angled steering link has no geometry to controll it. I realise that it might seem convenient, but it sucks from every point of view. You loose car controll and it's not even fun to drive.

I can tell from the pictures that it's not very good. :( Angled steering arms... when will people learn...

The arb explained:

Precisely!

Oh... that one.. i think it's a bionicle part. Very usefull. Not sure about the part name.

Also, without pics, any question is useless.

It's a picture from an e30 restoration project. Car is being assembled. :)

This is what i was aiming for: