nicjasno

Kingpin isn't just for that. It also is responsible for the steering to return to center in cars (if you ever wondered why your steering wheel returns to the center position).

Of a kingpin+caster angle setup? Handling. Even if you just have a hand of god steering, the fun and better handling of a car equipped with this is so worth it.

All good possibilities, but not good in practice. You do not want an axle/rim connection, and you certanly don't want to use the 2 stud cv joint axle. :)

All combinations are possible. And more.

You use my rotor.

King-Pin-2.lxf

You never mentioned gluing in your first post. :) Everything is possible once you start supergluing parts together. With stock lego gubs it isn't possible. Also, if going that route, using my turntable hubs is a better idea :)

It does so on a normal car aswell if the car is not cornering at the time.

The kingpin would still be zero. The problem are not the controll arms, but the hubs. If you use long and short arm wishbones, you can get a caster change in curves when the car leans to the outside of the curve, which is good for road holding. And you can even make a caster angle. But the kingpin is not doable if you use stock wheel hubs with ball joints.

A pneumatic engine makes sense in something that requires a big deal of power (think steam engines :P), but if you want a racing car that is compact and light and fast... you need to take electric motors.

If you want speed this is of course not a good way to do things. Electric motors are much better for that.

You need much less.

What bit? Maybe it's just the perspective... can you make me a pic of what is not right in your view? Those hubs are still in the prototype phase. I'm having ideas of my own and i want the suggestions of others to see what the final product will be. I'm pretty sure i'll need at least 2 more revisions before this can be finalised. I'm not selling those. It's just a concept for now.

What outer + hub? The bionicle sockets would be pretty tight. I would actually be more worried that they would be too tight to get the balls inside, than them popping out.

The white cargo plane has many 3x11 white panels.

That would take up too much space, be too big/heavy and the bionicle balls won't be able to click in them.

The problem is, that with only one hole, an elevated wishbone will be very wobly.

Ok, so here's the second prototype. Changes include a narrower stator, so that the entire stator is now 1 stud wide. The holes for the bionicle joints have also been moved 1/2 down, so that the distance is now 5 studs. I'm not sure how to mount the upper elevated wishbone. Open to suggestions how to attach to the stator. An issue is also the clearance from the tire, which is a hairs width.

I want to make a white supercar... need more of the large 5x13 straight panels and 5xsomething curved ones.

Need more larger panels.

In most tractors/4 wheel excavators, the front axle can pivot, so the vehicle can manage the road unevenness. Suspension is mostly done with tires.

The 8880 has many issues, but it is also my favorite lego supercar. It just has so many things a supercar should have, while others simply don't. 8448 did indeed fix the looks, but imho it lost the cutting edge in regards to features of a car. I remember at the time, watching tthe first pics of the suspension from the side, seeing the emerging shock, i was hoping for a macpherson setup on the front. Boy was i dissapointed. :( The 8880 needs a rebuild with 6l suspension arms to fix the horrible bump steer it had. And it needs softer springs.

Hehe, you can make it any color you like. :P

Very nice. Definelty need to get some. I can see many uses for those.

It holds the ball joint. This is awesome. Need to get hold of some of those!