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Saberwing40k

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Everything posted by Saberwing40k

  1. Well, there does exist a Lego DC adaptor, but you have to run it through this part: Electric, Train Speed Regulator 9V You will also need a Power Functions adaptor cable, and obviously the transformer to go with it. I've used this part befor, and it works great for bench testing. And yes, this is exactly what you are looking for, just set the controller to max speed, and plug it into a timer.
  2. I really must resist the urge to make an "In Soviet Russia, Lego builds you." joke, but I apparently could not. Ah well, and you are right. Most trial trucks I've seen either have remotely locked differentials, or none at all. Still, this might be good for something, not sure what.
  3. This is cool, but as anything more than a demonstrator, it's worthless. It's so big, and differentials are so fragile, that any application that would benefit from this would destroy it. It's still cool, though.
  4. So I finally opened my 42004 set, and built the B model, so that I would have the mini turntable. Something immediately jumped out at me, and that was the fact that there was no mechanism to control the bucket tilt, aside from moving the thing yourself. I looked at the sizeable pile of spare parts, and thought, why couldn't I modify it to include that mechanism? This mod is incredibly easy, and as mentioned before, only uses the parts left over from building the B model. I'm actually kind of shocked that Lego did not do this originally, as it's very simple, and would not have required any additional parts. Well, enough of my blabbering, let's get to building! Start with the B model: Then, remove the following parts: the bevel gear from the steering control, the 2 L liftarm from one of the steering arms, and the bush above it, and remove the side of the bucket linkage with the axle joiner, as shown. Then, pull the following parts out of the pile of extras: A 9L beam, and a 7L axle. everything else should be easily recognizable. Now, assemble as shown in the pictures: Now, knock out the 4L axle holding the arm to the chassis: And remove the piece from between the arms. (It's a liftarm with both an axle and a pinhole.) Put that piece on the empty steering arm. Put the arm back together, and thread the 7L axle through as shown. Now attach the arm piece, which you built a couple of steps ago. ( I actually made a mistake with this, the liftarm holding the two pieces together should be facing the other way.) Now add the control knob, which should be fairly easy to make. Now put the bucket linkage back together. And you are done! So, do you like this? Edit: Booyah! 300th post!
  5. Update Time!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! The battery pack has been added, as have the engines. I've actually had to split the entire model into several parts so that the computer won't crash.
  6. As far as I know, no, and never. I've never encountered lego sets being up for preorder.
  7. It's worth it even for the parts.
  8. Yess..... I may have to purchase them instructions.
  9. I find it highly abnormal that there are absolutely no pictures of 42003 at any of the toy fairs, or any reference to to the rumored power functions tuning set. Ah well, we'll find out soon enough.
  10. Okay, and done. I hope i haven't bitten of more than I can chew.
  11. Pretty good, but you should definitely change that ridiculous gear train on the mast. My recommendation is to turn the gear rack around, so it is on the same side as the drive motor, that way you would only need one drive shaft, and 2 perpendicular connections to lift it, rather than your existing setup. Or, you could mount the motor on the mast itself, as it is best if you minimize the distance the power needs to travel.
  12. I can say that you are going to have a lot of trouble with this. Sariel built a similar model, but roughly half of your scaled size, and it ultimately failed. The chassis was simply too flexible.
  13. Somebody care to translate both of these? Anyway, the truck will have 4 fake engines, driven by a single M motor. Sadly, I keep reaching the limit of what this computer can handle, in terms of bricks in LDD. And, I can not upgrade. So updates to this thread will become much more sporadic.
  14. Wow, that's some spiffy crane. But, why do you have the wheels carriers set up the way they are? It would be simpler to make a solid axle, unless you want all axles steered. And, by sheer coincidence, I am also building an 8 axle mobile crane, also with a four section boom. Also, your wheels sets look very much like parts I designed for a Trial Truck. Oh look, 300th post! Nope, only 290.
  15. This part, Hose, Flexible Ribbed with 8mm Ends, 19L can be used instead of the other black flex hose. It's much cheaper, and available from lego direct.
  16. You're both wrong. It's one of the four engines.
  17. Aww, beaten to it again. However, that's still a very very nice minifig scale version. Here's an update for mine: See updated first post for more information on why it looks like this.
  18. I've got 4958, my first power functions set ever. I also got a ferris wheel set, but I raided that for the motor only. Great fun, my resource for my very first PF models. Also, I've got an image as to what this new part could possibly look like: Either it is a part with a jog in it, or it's a c frame. I hope for the latter, personally.
  19. I don't think this new piece is just an angle connector, as there is no pin in the center pin hole, and nothing on either side. my guess is that it is a new piece that looks like this: +___+ + + Or maybe it's a 5x4 c frame piece that everybody's been wanting. you know, like the male torque tube part, without the ball joint?
  20. Welcome to Eurobricks. That is without a doubt the strangest thing I have ever seen. Good luck, I take it you want to make with more details rather than remote controlled with power functions. P.S. you should try deeplinking pictures to your posts. There's a tutorial somewhere on this site.
  21. Hey, what about me?! ah well, it's all good fun. As for this previous design, the color scheme is kind of wonky, as are the proportions. The wheels are far too small, and the bed is too tall and bulky. I think the cab is also too big, maybe more suited to a model like I'm building, rather than this.
  22. Look at that picture, than look at the Sarens crane, than look at that picture again. For my intents and purposes, they were too similar. Actually, the only cranes not buildable in real life are the Sarens crane. (3x11 curved panels not available in blue, same for 5x11.) and the James Jack crane. (no parts available in that shade of green.) Everything else would be fairly easy to do, but you'd have to do some serious modifications to 42009 to get it in Baldwins livery, as I'm sure Jennifer Clark will do when and if she gets it.
  23. Hmm, all the commentary on not enough yellow got me thinking: What if the crane had a different color scheme? Maybe like some of these ones: The Sarens blue livery: The Baldwins blue and white livery: The James Jack green livery: The Dekker Werkendam? white, gray and green livery: The Terex white and gray livery: Or, how about my personal favorite , the Mammoet black and red livery: Or another brilliant one, the Gastel-Herkules black livery: The crane's current color scheme is very reminiscent of the factory Liebherr livery, but I think we can do better, like some of the schemes shown above. Or what about something a bit more strange, like teal, or purple and white, or lime green? I'm sorry, but I'm a bit tired of the yellow and red vehicles, so let's do something different . I would think, like that one big Bionicle set of a few years back, Lego could do a different color scheme as a store exclusive. C'mon, make it happen..
  24. Does anybody have any idea how the dump bed linkage works? As seen in this picture, it works in a very unusual manner, and it is not readily apparent as to how. It's not like it's something I can figure out in LDD, either, so I'm going to have to wait until I can build this I.R.L.
  25. Well, that's excellent. And don't worry, I got the gist of it.
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