N1K0L4

Awesome little model! Great job on packaging those bulky PF electronics while keeping it really easy to use. No outdoor/offroad test this time? Also, will you publish the digital model? Kinda want to build one myself

I agree, rims 55982 and tires 18977.

Looks incredible for a alternate model that size!

Maybe the new short 3L suspension arms will help? Nice start! I feel like a 911 on this chassis would be cool (proportions, flat 6, low profile tires..) Also if you like sacrificing a bit of chassis stiffness you could add front suspension quite easily I think (if that's something you like having on a model :))

Hah, nice :) Some background story why is there a lawnmower (yk, there's no grass in the desert :)) or just because why not? Sure! That's why I'm asking, it has a lot of torque but ig it is a bit top heavy to go crawling?

Looks very good! Got some driving footage? I wonder how it does offroad.

That would be a sensible way to go, but in that case you have a hybrid, nothing new, and it would just be heavy and still produce emissions. It's just confusing, trying to appeal to enthusiasts with something they should know they won't like (fake/useless things).

They're copying us! :) What are your thought's on this? (btw, great video and channel, I recommend)

Nice model! Like the mixed up body design, nose looks like from a Formula Student, tire size combination reminds of F1 in the 70s, rear wing F1in 2000s. Could you show a render of the drivetrain/gearbox, I'm interested to see how you did that. edit: spelling

Nice! Were any major chassis modifications needed to fit the motors? If you tested it outside already, are there any other drawbacks other than throttle and steering control? (weight distribution?) How well do the bronco tires work offroad? Maybe you could compare them on this model as from what I can tell it fits all 56 mm tires for 30.4 mm rims.

Nice little truck! I like the diferent bed options, is it difficult to switch between them?

Great models, can't wait to see how they perform. Good luck! About the "Fish", I like the looks and that you have switched to gears instead of cv joints, but I thought you were going to take full advantage of it and have a higher steering angle (around 30°) with putting the steering rack closer to the pivot point. Also it's somewhat long, are you worried about the manouverability of it on slippery surfaces (understeer..)? I'm not very experienced with tracked vehicles with suspension, how do you keep the tracks enough in tension so they don't fall off?

Awesome little model! It may use RC components, but it's still a clever build with a great looking body :) Well.. it's not meant for high speed, is it? I think if you gear down at the motor (12:20 instead if 16:16) you could solve the cogging and the too fast top speed issue. It does! Really liked the shots. Can we see the setup? I wonder how low does it go. However you like, maybe just rename this topic.

Welcome back! Awesome model, looks great! Interesting diff locking system, definitely works great when the surface has enough traction, but as you pointed out it struggles on low grip flat ground. I wonder if it could be made so it has 2 modes, automatic (like now) and locked for better offroad capability. Should we expect more models coming from you in less than 6 years? :)

Really like the model! Very clean looking body. Especially like how you made the LBG connection between 2 parts of the body. Do you have any WIP pictures? I'm interested to see how you made the chassis.

Ah, got it. IMO the spacing is right, just the steering wheel us a bit low so there isn't much space for legs :) There is one stud left to the BuWizzes behind though, it's a bit hard to notice.

Thank you very much! Now that you say it.. it could've been built that way, yes, totally overlooked that . Although this way has some small advantages too. The link connection is in the better orientation (pointing vertically) so having bigger steering angles doesn't risk popping the links off. Other thing is that the two 2L halfbeams are extremely close to the rim so they kinda reduce slack in that direction. Yes they are all connected. That I'm not sure, but the rear motors would definitely experience more stress. Did the knob gears get wear? Actually let me check... there is definitely some wear, flat spots closer to the axle connection. Now the reason people don't use them is because they're not smooth. You can imagine a U-joint at high angles. For constant speed on one side the other side slightly changes the speed periodically. Similar thing with knob gears because point of contact in not always on equal distance to the center of the axle. (if you don't lubricate them they're like a propeller plane, very loud. Also you need to lubricate them like every 3rd drive). Yes, the 94.8 mm tires. They do start slipping over time, but I just put a rubber band on one side of the rim where tire makes contact and the problem is fixed (sometimes 2 are needed). Had the same problem with 43.2x20 and 75.1 mm tires. Didn't really need to, everything fit just fine, also what internals? Nice! One thing I have to upgrade for next year is the steering. The angle is kinda low and I was worried of links popping out (luckily it didn't happen), so double steering racks next year.

Thank you!

Hello, Almost a year ago I was figuring out what to build for this years Unlimited offroad category at the BuWizz gathering and I knew I had to have 4 motors to be competitive. But than as I was playing with different configurations I realized that I needed something simple and robust (because it was my first 4 motor model, so didn't want to experiment), yet not big and with a good balance between speed and torque. That led to this model. I would usually talk how I came up with some creative solutions etc... but here I just don't have anything to talk about as it's the most usual electronics layout and drivetrain. There are a few things I can talk about however. From the start I really wanted this model to be nice and low for better COM and looks, I think I did a decent job at that. I also made the bottom flat, as usual with my models, for better sliding over obstacles. Other thing I noticed when I built it is that I can't run normal tan colored bevel gears as they just melt into the frames from the crazy power of 4 BW motors, so I ended up using knob gears. Because of it's simplicity I could use many big parts (frames, panels) to make the chassis stronger. Why these tires you might ask? Usual 107s that people use for these types of vehicles were just too big compared to the height of the model so it just looked off. Also, the thing can actually crawl over rocks with some precision. Specifications: Dimensions (LxWxH): 39x27x17 studs Powered by 2x BuWizz 3.0 Pro and 4x BuWizz motors Independent double wishbone suspension on all wheels with adjustable stiffness using rubber bands Permanent AWD with no differentials 1:5.4 gear ratio (planetary hubs) from the fast output Ackerman steering geometry interior with 2 seats and a steering wheel Now, if it's so simple, why am I even bothered to make a EB topic about it? Well it's because of what happened on the BuWizz gathering this year. The thing actually won! It wasn't the fastest, it wasn't the torquiest, it wasn't the biggest, it wasn't even the smallest (kinda surprising for me :) ), I probably weren't the best driver either. What it was is simple, robust and controllable, that's what got me the win, and that will give you the best chances in any competition. And of course, a video showcasing the model: *SB means "slightly bigger"; ik, ik terrible name :)

I love the design if the real thing, really clever. All congrats to you for making this massive build! I hope someone builds it.. (don't have the parts either, sry)

Awesome model as always from you :) I want to add on my YT comment on changing to yellow diffs. As you said the torque limiting factor are the female CV joints and because of that you limited the current to 1.5A. If you change to yellow diffs that would reduce torque by 48%. That means (if torque goes lineary with current) that you could increase max. current to 2.22A max. and get the same torque for with more speed. It would certainly reduce the runtime if you drive it on full power, but I think 2A current limit would be more than enough for this model as it's not a crawler. (Why I'm saying all this: I wanted to see it fly :D )

Model looks great! I agree with @gyenesvi, it would be nice to show the insides and see the difference from the A model.

Well, yes in 2024. on my Mini Offroader. That one had the shocks on the bottom one + the rubber bands pulling the 2 together and making the suspension harder. Although that one was much slower (5 km/h) and half the power. Wow, interesting. I guess next time definitely make those stronger as you said :)

Overall, really nice model! In this case not really IMO. As you have the shocks acting on the upper wishbone, that one is pushing against the hub and pushing the ball joint together. Because of that the lower wishbone only has to keep the hub in place and doesn't push/pull it up/down that could otherwise disconnect the ball joint. With all of that in mind you could have used the 7L liftarms. BTW, I agree with you about the thick 6L liftarm, they should definitely start producing that one. Wait, like.. physically broken or just disassembled? Also what gearing did you use?

For some model with long travel suspension I'd say it's worth trying. It would be a cool project ;)