N1K0L4

You could do another render of only motors and driveteain.

Welcome to Eurobricks! Looks great! You based it off the current gen F1 cars, right? Also can you show us a bit under the body, I'm curious how you put all the motors inside.

Thanks, your models are always good inspiration ;) Yes exactly that.

Hello, so after the Mini AWD 42109 TG Rally Car I was thinking of making a full size one and finally putting that body on AWD chassis. My goal was also making the drivetrain efficient and powerful. This is the result. . Most of the body was kept as original, but has quite some differences as well. For the drivetrain I got inspiration from @Zerobricks Mustang GTEX AWD. So each motor drives it's own rear wheel (20:16 from slow output, plenty fast and still has enough torque) which than power a differential. That differential averages the rpm and sends that average to the front wheels via another differential. In the front I used gears instead of CV joints to be able to have much higher steering angles (25°-30°). When you first see that approach you might think that the gears will just skip under power, but no. They are being pushed together by the weight of the car and can not skip. Model is powered by BuWizz 3.0 Pro and 2 BuWizz motors and steered by a PU L motor. I could've gone for a layout that allows for interior and other scale details, but the reason I've gone for this is that I can have as much weight in the center and on the front wheels. Because of that the car is surprisingly agile even though AWD cars naturally produce understeer. One thing that also helps with agility is torque vectoring / skid steering on the rear wheels. I have the coefficient set to 0.12. Also I kept the front differential unlocked which makes it much easier to rotate at low speeds. Main goal of this model was of course to make a model that can drift with ease and lets me enjoy it. I'd say I managed to do that pretty well. With the help of some 3D printed tire covers (tape works too, but not as well) it slides like a dream. Video showcasing the model: Instructions: https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-218801/N1K0L4/awd-42109-tg-rally-car/ Tire covers: https://www.printables.com/model/1292404-drift-cover-for-lego-432-x-20-mm-tire BuWizz components: https://buwizz.com/ Overall, I'm really happy how this turned out, hope you like it too :) Nikola

Sometimes it's hard to find good place to jump your models, so you have to build yourself a ramp. This is how I did it. For the slope of the ramp I used some plywood I had laying around, I recommend using 6+ mm thickness. For the legs of the ramp I used some Technic liftarms with a rubber piece at the end to avoid sliding. By changing the length of the liftarms (5-15L) I can change the angle and height of the ramp. And to connect the 2 parts I 3D printed some simple blocks to screw into the wood and compatible with Technic pins. (TBH you could make them from a block of wood too, look at the link for dimensions) 3D model for the connector block: https://cad.onshape.com/documents/112a9a5113aaeeed036fa1f8/w/c3837a3e0d040189c8912503/e/8ecff33f14ae8d5b7b258179?renderMode=0&uiState=6805189f5c118a0894e02cde Happy building! Nikola

Looks great! Only thing I would add is a exhaust behind the cabin, part 65571 would fit well. What shrinking factor did you use? Also do you think there's enough space to motorize it with BuWizz micro motors?

Awesome work! Interesting to see from what it evolved :) What material did you print it in?

Thanks!

Thanks! Surprisingly not really, you can see it a bit under heavy acceleration but that's it basically. Thank you!

Thanks! It is, and the best part is that it's easy to carry with you. For example I have just enough soace in my school bag for it and drive it after school. Thanks! It's actually not that overpowered as it's still 753g.

Thank you! It's like that because I wanted to get the COM low as with this soft suspension I predicted it would be quite easy to roll. Also wanted to be close to 750g, it has 753g. Exactly that. In some cases it really saves a lot of parts and makes it sturdier. I haven't really noticed any precision problems tbh as lego itself has much more slack.

Inspired by the BuWizz MOC with the same name. Hello, so it all started one day when I started building the original model by the instructions in BL Studio. While I was building it I noticed that there was quite a bit of unused space in the chassis, so I said why not add a extra motor? That ended in me designing a whole new chassis and taking the body as I think it looks really good (of course I didn't copy it piece by piece). Specifications, features and functions: front independent double wishbone suspension with 14° of caster, hardness adjustability with use of rubber bands and 3.5 studs of travel front steering by PU XL motor rear live axle suspension with hardness adjustability with use of rubber bands and 3 studs of travel rear wheel drive with a lot of possible gear ratios controlled by BuWizz 3.0 Pro robust body well protected electronics interior with 2 seats and a steering wheel full size spare tire It's a lot of fun to drive, I personally like to drive on bumpy asphalt. It's pretty versatile too, with the right gearing it can go trough grass or go pretty fast. I found myself using mainly 3 gear ratios: 12:20 for offroad driving 20:28 for all around driving (14.6 km/h max.) 1:1 for fast driving when I have space (20.7 km/h max) It's pretty tough too. I rolled it and crashed it many times and almost nothing broke. There's one weak point though, and those are the front hubs. Almost every time one of the front wheels takes most of the impact, one of the towballs on the hub breaks. When it does break it's pretty easy to change, I always have a few spares inside the spare wheel just in case. Charging and getting the BW unit in and out is pretty easy too as the roof is really easy to remove. Instructions: https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-212772/N1K0L4/mini-trophy-truck/ Video: I hope you like it! Nikola

That's why I use this: Both half 12 and 20 bevel gears. This also reduces slack a bit.

Really nice model! How much travel does the suspension have?

Here you go. It seems to write K1t, KIt or Klt.

So I just finished installing a set of PU lights in my MOC when I saw that one LED wasn't working. After closer inspection I noticed that there were bare cables right on the exit from the black box between the connector and the LEDs. Than with help from a slim flat head screwdriver I managed to open the black box. There I saw the 2 bare wires crossing each other which I think shouldn't be happening. After I untangled the wires everything worked again. (I'll protect them properly later) It was interesting to finally see what was hiding in that black box as it was always in the way of something. I thought you guys would like to see it too :)

For almost every one of my models I make a camera mount somewhere on the car for my GoPro Hero 4 Session camera. Some of those were just for filming and video purposes and some become used as camera vehicles. Here are some of those. First one was my Mini Tracked Vehicle (MTV). It was built almost 2 years ago now and it competed in the Offroad category at the 2023 BuWizz gathering. Other than that it turned out to be very useful as a camera vehicle during the Mini Trail Trucks competition. Next up, a bit of a unexpected one. Before the Mini Racers competition during the 2024 BuWizz gathering we had practice time and of course all the people went on track at the same time which resulted in a lot of crashes and a lot of fun. I was driving my model there with the camera because why not, it was just practice after all. And the most recent one happened a month ago. I was going to a local Rally show and I brought my Mini Offroader with me so I can get the camera as close the the cars as I wanted. I got some pretty good footage from that and almost got the model stuck next to the track Have you ever used your LEGO creations as a camera vehicle? If so, fell free to share it here

Just finished the model digitally, we'll be building it soon :)

In the rear it's because I need to get a average rpm of 2 motors going to the front axle. Than I can set up a tracked steer module in the BuWizz app to have outer wheel spin faster while cornering. For the front wheels I'm still not sure what's better, with everything locked I sometimes get understeer so maybe open differential will allow one wheel to stay in contact with the ground? IDK, I have to test that.

So I had lost a bit of inspiration for the model back in May and I moved on to other projects. That why there was nothing from me here. Yesterday I was looking at my folders to get some inspiration what to build, than I found this and got some inspiration for it again. I did rethink the gearing and the drivetrain by comparing it to other similar models. I ended up using the same gear ratio as the RWD version, so 16:20 from the slow output. I can change that later if I really need more torque. I guess you were right :). I tried to keep most of the weight in between the wheels for better weight distribution. I'll try finishing the digital model this week as well as building the car. After that (if the car works) @Another Brick in the World and me will both build the car and maybe do a collab video (?). That's it for now, happy holidays!

Like this or you could try with a hairdryer or leave it on the sun for a bit (since you got summer now).

Awsome model, full of functions. I like this more than the official sets. Also that front bumper was a nice thing to add :). It depends on how bad the driving really is and what are the "symptoms". From what I can see, COM is quite high for a car this scale and quite far back too. That would suggest you have chronic understeer while driving on the road. Decoupling the motors should help with that and maybe add e-differential. You can also try cleaning and preheating the tires, these 49.5 x 20 mm usually have less grip than 43.2 x 20 mm ones.

In my case the gears never clicked as the weight of the model is basically pushing the gears together, but I'll consider your design if I'll be dealing with higher power.

Thanks! It doesn't fit like this, you would have to space out the wheels 1/2 a stud on each side because of the shape of the rims.

Thank you! Yeah, the drifting was very fun, looking forward to doing it next year too :)