shroomzofdoom

Yeah, that's a 3D printed 44T bevel I picked up on shapeways. Also a 4x4 flip flop L that I got in a random box of garage sale bricks. I was messing around with various perpendicular gears meshing and found the spacing nteresting: 12T mesh on 2L perp holes 20T mesh on 2.5L perp holes 28T mesh on 3L (one of the strongest) 36T mesh on 4.5L perp holes I figured that 44T would mesh on 5L perp holes... And so on I guess the price on the new Yamaha parts and the 1:1 ratio audi hubs is keeping you guys from crashing inventory right before VIP weekend! Only 24 hrs!!!

Currently, I'm struggling to squeeze in a 24T clutch gear without enough real estate to do it. I wish I had something like this, but in either 16T or 20T variant.

Funny, but the Polaroid version appears to have a brass gear, which would make the tan one a bit closer to the original.

Looks like 6589 will be available in LG in the 21345 Polaroid ideas set next year. First time since 2003 if I'm correct. Source https://youtu.be/ya6jSUZV2wA?si=ha8cJp8kswnLXrAF

I just measured the 20T gears I have on hand with a micrometer--the green gear is 21.78mm while the blue one is 21.43mm (tan ones I have measured 21.35). Most of my gears are used so can't confirm with anything brand new. However, the 0.35-0.43 mm delta is about the thickness of an index card. This is beyond the 1 μm tolerance so I would think it's by design. When I compared the 12T black and blue gears, the difference is about 0.60 mm. If you think about it, those differences are probably necessary to accommodate the perpendicular meshing of gears without interference

As the tendency has been to create really large, and powerful RC MOCs I've wondered about what's the smallest RC possible.... Example: start with buwizz 2.0, small wheels... Then what is the smallest 4wd possible... Then what is smallest independent suspension... I've tried some things but it's good to see that others may be thinking along the same track! https://youtube.com/shorts/944MouhLfzM?si=H1IfEaz-mu3SLQob

Is there something like a CADA/3rd party parts pack for LDD? Looking through the thread here it doesn't look like it'd be easy for me to do myself without some experience, I tried a few things and embarrassed to say how much time I spent on it before I gave up. Among other things, I collect compatible designs that don't exist in the formal Lego world (a few examples below) most are CADA, a few are gobricks.

I just wanted to give you a heads up. I don't think this list is updated. I have both 42159 and 42160--both have build together and aren't reflected in the list. I think I may go with the Mars rover as I couldn't wait and built those two already. Old age, it seems, did not temper my impatience. :-)

Ah, that's exactly the kind of feedback I needed. Thank you for the brickset list that's going to save me a huge disappointment! Good call on testing it with two devices as well! Thank you for the cheers as well. I may be turning 50, but I don't feel a day over 73!

Curious if anyone has used the Build together feature in the Lego Builder app yet and what they thought of it? What set did you use? How many people? Were they all AFOLs? Did it 'work'? Was it fun? It seems odd that any concept of 'togetherness' begins with each member on their own mobile device but I suppose this is a necessary evil given the subject matter. I've always tried to get my friends in on the fun, especially when building the big Technic design released each year around my birthday. Admittedly, there have been varying levels of interest over the years... This year, everyone asked me what I wanted for my 50th birthday (you mean, apart from pretending this milestone isn't actually happening?!?) Naturally I feel inclined to force them through building 42146 with me. What do you think?

For the record, the link says 'without friction ridges'...the page correctly states 'with' friction ridges. I have quite a few and can can confirm that they have exceptional clutch power.

Update: It worked for me after a few more attempts. I don't recommend using 45607 for steering however--VERY easy to overtorque and ruin a $60 motor. derp

So, 45607 can be used for steering... But 45603 cannot? Seems weird. Both go through calibration, but then 45603 doesnt respond to inputs in Drive mode. Can anyone else confirm? I opened a case about this a while back but I don't think I ever got a reply.

I realize all the reasons why you may not be able to share instructions, but I hope that some of the concepts or sub-models are things you'll be able to share in the future. As always, your Technic design skills are in a category all of their own. I always build (or try to build) your designs, and every time I do--I learn something that I never knew before. Your transmission designs are legendary. For example: the consideration you used when orienting this frame in a way to accommodate the 24T gear of the differential opened up a possibility that I previously hadn't considered. In making this single connection you've opened up possibilities for several other designs I've been tinkering with. Even if you can't share more...THANK YOU for sharing just enough. :-)

My contribution to the floating/suspended pendular category. I use it for my 6x6. At the scale I use it, metal u-joints are a must but it's very sturdy. YT description has parts list and LXF. You can see the drop test here:

I just spotted this on the high res images for 42157 I've heard mention of it elsewhere but this is the first time I've seen it.

Am I missing something? Opted in to beta on Android. Couldn't see the gearbox button as described in the user guide 1_9. Tried fw update on the BW 3.0, deleting/reinstalling the app from play store. No joy. Anyone have the same experience? EDIT: For some reason, I had to uninstall/reinstall the Buwizz app from Play store and completely delete data and cache from my Samsung in order to get the Buwizz beta app to present the 'update firmware option'. No matter how many times I tried prior to doing this it kept re-flashing Nordic 3.18/Tajnik 1.8. I now updated all of my BW 3.0 Nordic 3.22/Tajnik 1.8.

That's a good point. After all, there are always bricks and plates! I love Lego and I don't think that will ever change.

My Buwizz journey: I ‘discovered’ Lego Technic rather late in life. I’m a bit older and wiser (chubbier) in my 50’s but Lego allows me to live vicariously through my creations. I've spent nearly $10,000 USD in models, MOCs, and the never ending supply line of parts that stretches from Billund to my home in Northern Michigan. So when I told the guys I wanted to try out my Lego snowmobile on the upcoming snowboarding trip, they scoffed. “Lego has come a long way since our childhood…you can build anything! I have a cool aftermarket motor and battery setup so it can go REALLY fast! You gotta see it!” I beamed with enthusiasm. “Lego falls apart too easily,” Ed retorted. ‘Hard to argue with that logic,’ I thought to myself. But I accepted the challenge as an opportunity to convert more AFOLs. As the date of the trip approached, I had to change my design somewhat to increase stability. That meant moving the Buwizz from the easy-to-reach spot at the top to an place deeper inside the model. I generally design Buwizz MOCs this way so I can connect a portable pack to the USB-C port during the many instances of Buwizz blueballs that always appear at the worst times (such as when my new design is about to careen off a cliff, head for a puddle, or fail to impress an expectant audience) However, I set my ramp times, tested extensively, and had high confidence in this design. I started early in the day but it took me until 3am. Nonetheless, everything clicked and I had a rock solid design: the wires were invisible, the Buwizz was flawlessly shrinkwrapped to protect it from the snow. I spent another hour adding panels to make it look perfect, packed the rest of my gear, and headed out…exhausted, but still excited to show the guys what I just built. ‘Why did I forgo sleep for a toy?’ I asked myself. The thought had crossed my mind 100 times by the third coffee. AFOLs know why, that’s just how we’re wired. We drove all day and planned to ride the following morning. We grabbed some dinner and drank many beers. The whole time, I was thinking about the conditions, excited for the boarding but also finding the ideal time to show off my MOC. The forecast that week was for powder but the preceding few days were warm which meant the snow outside the hotel was firm and almost exactly like the conditions I had tested in. On the way back to the hotel, I mentioned I was going to take the Lego snowmobile out for a spin, which was met with another round of good-natured ribbing. As I connected my phone and placed the model on the wide expanse of snow, we gave a toast, everyone fired up their cameras and...we’re off! It took off like a shot (after the 2 second ramp), executed some great turns and was kicking up a nice tail of icy snow. It looked and performed GREAT! (for exactly 43 seconds) Not sure if it caught an edge or because my fingers were numb controlling it with a stupid phone but either way, the steering linkage broke lose and it flipped over on it’s side. The Buwizz went unresponsive and the steering motor kept spinning to the sick sound of cracking plastic. I ran over to rescue it, the Buwizz cruelly flashed red and green and then entered shutdown mode. Buwizz blueballs…strikes again! “2 minutes, and I’ll have it back up again. Hang on guys!” I tore into it with the precision of a Nascar pit crew, fastidiously laying out all the pieces on the hood of the truck…got down to the Buwizz and connected up the pack. As I began putting it back together, I couldn’t find a critical structural piece and realized it must have fallen into the snow. 2 minutes turned to 5. As the beer ran out, the enthusiasm began to wane. “It’s cold… I’m going in,” Arif had enough. 5 minutes now turned to 10 and Matt left “Hey that was awesome,” he said sarcastically as he headed in. I did the best I could, dispensed with the body panels and left the wiring hanging out. I connected my stupid phone, put it in the snow, hit the accelerator and the model split in half. That structural element was too critical to ignore. The painstaking hours, the lost sleep throughout design, build, test, and improve cycles had amounted to exactly 43 seconds of unmitigated joy. Most of which was recorded for posterity in the middle of 5 minutes of taunting and mockery by my best friends. I unceremoniously scooped up the carcass and threw it in the bed of the truck when it hit me: “I’m just a chubby old man with misplaced brand loyalty, pathetically searching for the pieces of my toy in the snow. Why the @#%^ am I doing this?!?” I have 8 Buwizz fun-ruiners now and I’m going to wait and see what April holds. It’s a fork in the road for them…and for me. If I give up this hobby, I’ll spend my time more productively by doing irreparable harm to this business.

@amorti and @aFrInaTi0n Thanks for confirming about the 88018 motors!

Does anyone know for sure if the 88018 motor should work in center steer on Buwizz 3.0? I have no problems using it as a drive motor but in center steer, I can't seem to get it to return to center. No problems in the same application using the Technic L motor and PU medium. Just wondering if anyone knows for sure if this is a no-go?

As a relatively new technic builder, I often struggle with perfect triangles and half stud offsets. So, I applaud your efforts. Perhaps you can find a useful application for this part. I bought a whole bunch of them but haven't found it useful... yet.

They are a perfect fit for locking the 28T differential with bevel! They come in red right now (if you don't care about color)

Which motor are you using for steering? It looks like Technic L motor just wanted to be sure. I have good luck running those with Buwizz but you have to have good mechanical stops in place. Also, try adjusting the centering power to 68%, that always seems like the sweet spot for me.