shroomzofdoom
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Everything posted by shroomzofdoom
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I've been motivated by seeing @Zerobricks wildcat working and seemingly unaffected by the same headaches that I've encountered. It was heartbreaking for a while there to spend weeks on new designs only to watch them stall out. I've opened a few cases and gotten some useful feedback. I'll leave my earlier posts intact to capture how upset I was at the time. But will add that I have actually ordered more Buwizz units. The addition of ramps of 1.5s up and down and limiting BW3.0 to 2 RC motors per battery and limiting BW2.0 to a single RC motor power battery seems to have done the trick. It is undoubtedly more expensive (more batteries) and less fun (no tire spins) but it's a passable solution for now. The fact that I occasionally have to leave my buwizz 2.0 to completely discharge over a period of several days is still wholly unacceptable. I still am looking forward to alot of overdue updates and wanted to thank @Zerobricks for his support.
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There are limited applications for it: inside of multispeed transmissions powered by multiple motors for example that will be under heavy load when shifting. Also, with a 6x6 or 8x8, the drivelines connecting the rear axles are subject to considerable lash/windup and can get out of sync with the front.
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I like the interesting way you've found to use the planetary hubs AND keep the wheels from falling off! I've been building some larger models lately too and have generally stuck to the portal hubs because I could use an 8L axle with stop to hold the wheels in place. Good stuff.
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Carbon fiber axles are available on their site in a range of sizes. I ordered a few to check them out.
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I agree. I've ordered almost $500 USD of parts over the past month and compared prices to bricklink and brickowl as I did. The price difference is negligible. In many cases, the best price I could find was from lego.com. The new cardan joints are far cheaper on lego and you get VIP points.
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I just picked up some of the CADA metal universal joints. The are designed VERY well. The clutch power is not too strong so it doesn't damage plastic axles and they fit perfectly into the opening on portal axles without rubbing. I reached out to them and they are planning on selling carbon fiber axles next week. (for the record, I'm not affiliated or compensated I'm just REALLY impressed with their quality and prices) You can see them in this video at high speed being motivated by 4 RC motors
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How did you get all those green gears? Bricklink? Lego? 4 rescue choppers?!?
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Anyone hovering new parts, these element IDs will make it easier to search on lego.com. Tip: if you want to search sites for other countries, append lego.com as follows: lego.com/en-us for the US site, lego.com/en-gb for the UK site etc. While you can't order across geos you can check PAB availability. What I've been seeing is that new parts release on Europe sites a few days prior to the US site. (mileage may vary) I have an absolute policy against using non-Lego gears in my models because they never work as well or have the same quality control as Lego brand. However, I am also impatient and have OCD...ergo...I picked up some knock offs to mess around with and see if I could lock them. Here are some of the less offensive of my attempts: #1 with the 24T gears has minimal friction and does way better than the 28T red diff in terms of friction. All are are bulky (obviously) I hope someone comes up with something soon as I am about to do some weird things with a heat gun and crazy glue. (Yes, I am an apostate) The following could come down to manufacturing problems with the knock offs. In addition to friction, the 28T red diff had elegant proportions that could be integrated into other things like transmissions. I can't help but assume these Daytona gears are a one trick pony.
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You forgot the part about the wheels falling off :-) The ability to feed a central axle through the drive gear on the portal hub and use that plus the 3 hub stubs to keep the wheel on is indispensable. This reason right here is why I stopped trying to incorporate them into models. Of course, I do wind up twisting quite a few 8L stop axles but I buy them 100 at a time now.
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I love them with pybricks. The original firmware is painful on both the mindstorms and technic hubs. I actually had a mindstorms hub fail on me and Lego replaced a full year after I bought 51515.
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Just going to throw this out there... I struggle every day with hubs. There's nothing more frustrating then spending an entire weekend on a design only to have to your power supply cut off in use and need to be connected to a USB or needing to leave the thing on a shelf until the power drains. Some are glitchy, some are underpowered, only use smartphones, not enough inputs, unreliable, etc. I don't give a rat's megablocks about their other lines of business, if someone invents something that works I'm using it. I'm adding MK to my long line of hub related disappointments because I bought it to test and it won't pair. Every single hub I've purchased disappoints me in some way. That's what hubs do.
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Anyone have issues with pairing the MK6.0 and the remote? Or know the button press sequence to re-pair them? I just picked one up and...no joy
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Wow, this isn't Lego...it's art!
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Not with Buwizz app but if you'd like, you can use Brickcontroller app. It works but with a bit of latency when compared to using the smartphone. I find it interesting that people here are busting their hump trying to troubleshoot a problem that the vendor seems unable to address on their own. Interestingly, Buwizz can't even be bothered to post their development calendar on their site and the last one shared is way overdue. Their marketing efforts however seem completely unphased. Instead of buying 2 more Buwizzz 3.0, I will just spend my money elsewhere. Anyone sending them money is just silly. I do believe congratulations are in order though. This issue is now a year old. Happy Birthday Buwizz!
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Both blue gears are already out of stock! 3x19 frames look like they are displaying on both the lego.com/en-us and lego.com/en-ca sites Try these SKUs, be sure to toggle the 'show out of stock' slider when searching just to be sure you can get to them: 6396480 - GEAR WHEEL Z20 6396479 - GEAR WHEEL Z12 6377025 - FRAME 3X19
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The new blue gears and 3X19 frames are now available on the en-us site. Just placed an order!
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The one I posted above has 12 legs and is based on Ben Vagle's strider v3. He goes into great detail about the leg and crank construction and even provides parts lists. One of the main reasons to go from 8 legs to 12 version is that the more legs it has, the smoother and more organic the gait will appear. If you look at Jansen's work, some of the most organic movements come from strandbeests that have dozens of legs. Here's one of my original designs with 8 legs for comparison. Except for the aluminum tubing, this was all Lego (or knockoff) Another complication arising out of the transition from 8 to 12 legs is the crankshaft timing. To keep 4 pairs of legs in sync, they need to be offset 180 degrees. With 6 pairs of legs, the offset has to be 120 degrees. There are limited Lego parts with 120 degree angles that can hold up to high torque. The other problem with Lego triangles is that the axle holes in the center don't line up properly for this design. That led Vagle to unusually bulky designs and even (gasp) cutting Lego parts! My solution to the 120 degree problem was similarly heretical, but alot easier and more compact. I took 53.5 degree angle beams, doubled them to get to 107 degrees and lastly, used a heat gun to soften the plastic. The end result is hard to see, but highlighted here in yellow. While an 8 legged walker could be built mostly of Lego, a 12 legged one built 100% from Lego would be quite a challenge. And, of course I could've built it to slower but what fun would that be? :-P
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That's so weird! I hadn't noticed that when I ordered! The holes are parallel as they should be. The spring rates, size, and fit seems comparable in every way to the Lego original. The only subtle difference is that the top of the Cada shocks are not chamfered like the original lego design. (inset photo) They are molded with a Cada logo which is encouraging as that implies a different quality than some of the junk that you can find on ebay and Amazon.
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It looks like they've been expanding their parts offering lately. Every time I check their web page there are more parts. On a whim, I order 50 of the CADA hard yellow shocks at $0.40 USD each. They arrived in Michigan 12 days later and the quality is just as good as Lego (80% cheaper too) Given the fact that TLG really seems to be ignoring the AFOL community lately I've moved hundreds of dollars monthly from Denmark to China and I'm glad to do it.
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Yeah, the speed causes the legs to basically fly apart during turns. Threading on nuts instead of using bushes at the top legs was a big improvement. Each angular motor turns three cranks and driveshafts on each side (6 legs per motor). Without metal axles holding the leg sets together, the lash/windup would cause the timing of the legs on the outside to be out of sync, Also, there is no Lego axle long enough for the two top rails. Piecing them together from segments wasn't structurally sound and there is too much flex in Lego axles. Aluminum tubing was far superior and ultimately allowed me to use 1M beams and pin connectors to maintain spacing, act like bearings, and keeping everything moving. EDIT I got the dart shooter working last night and replaced the original video with all the features operational. It shows much better now!
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The specs: - 12 legged walker - Driven by 2 Lego Technic Large angular motors - Powered by Buwizz 3.0 - 1 Technic L motor powers the deployable spinning Lego buzzsaw - 1 Technic S angular motor to power the Lego arrow shooter Sorry Lego purists, but I had to use some non-Lego parts in this design: - 4.7mm aluminum tubes front run the width of the robot providing lightweight articulation of the legs in lieu of plastic axles - Stainless steels axles are used throughout the driveshaft due to the inherent limitations of backlash and breakage caused by the Lego plastic axles - Small nuts are threaded onto the upper leg pivots to maintain the connection as Lego bushes simply cannot retain the axles given the duty cycles.
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If they don't appear on the website. I strongly recommend calling them to place an order. I did this a month or two back and was able to place a phone order for the new blue gears and 3x19 frames.
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I have a second MS hub and they can be daisychained (though I don't believe this is supported in pybricks yet). I do have have a separate project going for a 6 wheel rover with a rocker bogie differential but it's been in the works for a year and has consumed about 5 lb of Technic parts so far. Some day... One day, I was building a small front suspension like this and thought, 'What if I extended it the knuckle to 7? Or 9? Or 15? And really the limiter to doing it simply is the length of Lego links for tie rods. I built some suspensions with 5L and 9L links and had some of these 17L long links and just kinda built it. I was more or less curious what the upper end limit might be with existing links. Curious if anyone has found ways to use things like bionicle joints? The point is...pointlessness. @astyanax gets it
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45 stud wheelbase, 60 stud track. I've corrected my original post. Thank you! I may try to make this thing a big ol square now that you mention it. I started off trying to see how much travel I could get out of the suspension and I had those 17L links so I deisgned it around them.
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60 stud wheeltrack (width, hub to hub) 45 stud wheelbase (length, axle to axle) Specs: Mindstorms hub running pybricks w/ powered up remote 4 Technic XL motors for power (also for supplementary spin steering) 1 Technic L motor for 4 wheel steering Weight = 4 lb 10 oz (2KG) mismatched shocks (cuz I ran out of parts...ordered!) Check out a comparison of this vehicle to other Lego trucks I've built: https://youtu.be/BsD3ZKFLFvI