gyenesvi

That's an interesting idea, could be part of it. On the other hand, I'd guess they could be useful even if they are not stronger, simply because they potentially run smoother. For example, in a complex gearbox that could make a difference, don't you guys think? Also, the grinding issue someone mentioned; I often find some plastic dust around the bevel gears in my RC models when I push them hard for a while (even with standard technic hub and 1.2V rechargeables). Maybe TLG is trying to address these issues with the smoother running gears.

Thanks for all the responses! Does it require sanding to function properly, or is it just for the looks? I imagine it needs some corrections where connections are too tight. Is that so frequently / in a lot of places? If just for functionality, does it need just a bit of sanding manually with some fine sandpaper, or is some more elaborate sanding process required (I have seen some videos about sanding which seem pretty cumbersome and time consuming). I'd have some part specific questions about some that are in my interest: - You have the new CV joint with sliding axle hole. What is the length of it? Is it 5L (3L sliding inside) like the new lego version in the Zetros set, or is it 1 stud shorter? I find the one in the Zetros too long, I'd be interested in a shorter one. - From the 6L suspension arm you have processed version in every color except black (only natural and premium in black). Same for the male CV joint with 1M crossaxle. Is there a specific reason for that being available only in natural and premium in black? Which finishing did you try for these? Have you tried premium vs natural? Which works better? Thanks!

@efferman I'd like to give some of your custom parts a try, printing them with Shapeways, as you seem to have a pretty interesting array of custom parts there. I don't have any experience with Shapeways (only made a registration and read about materials and technologies so far), so I'd have a few questions to start. Later I'd also be interested in understanding the process of part design, like shaping, material selection, tolerances, etc. - First of all, when I select one of your parts on Shapeways, for some parts I can choose between various colors and finishes, while for others there's only one option. What does this depend on? Do you set these, or does it depend on the part (like size, details)? When there are more options, what works best for (smaller) lego parts? For example natural or processed versatile plastic? I guess processing does effect the tolerances. Which method do you use for your parts? I'd pick processed, as it should have a smoother surface, and processing small parts at home manually sounds quite cumbersome. Or do these parts require some post processing when I receive them anyway? Or can I just use them right away if I order them processed? - About colors: I am guessing colors don't exactly come out as lego colors. Are some colors a good match to lego ones? Black, white, maybe red, yellow? - I am guessing that when you design a part, you design it for a certain material, keeping in mind that tolerances required for that material, right? Does this work with trial and error? I mean can you calculate the required wall thicknesses for example, or do you have to try it a couple of times to get it right? I guess experience also counts after a while.. - On some of your parts, I see some connecting material. (It does not seem like support material, and as I understand SLS printing does not require support material). So what is that for? Just for packaging, i.e. not to loose small parts? Or to make the whole thing come out as one (interlocked) assembly? - I read that with SLS printing, one can print interlocking parts as well. Does that mean that it could be possible for example to print a differential with the gears already inside? Or is the 0.5 mm clearance required for separate parts (in case of versatile plastic) not enough for that? - I see you mostly use versatile plastic, with SLS technology, although I see MJF plastic available for some parts. What's your experience, how do they compare? Have you experimented with SLA technology and SLA Accura Extreme material? As I understand it has a nice surface finish but may be too brittle for Lego parts? Or is it too expensive / cumbersome (requires support material and post processing)? Just curious. Thanks for the info in advance!

Thanks, I was suspecting this answer, I have a very similar MacBook and have similar experience, never had the nerves to wait that much.. Actually, rendering is more suited for GPUs, but the problem is that MacBooks typically don't have very powerful GPUs. Furthermore, as I have read, Studio is only capable of using Nvidia GPUs for fast rendering of photorealistic quality (not available in MacBooks). With such GPUs, rendering a frame should take a matter of a few seconds I guess (which is still considered slow in the world of graphics). But I guess that's what they had in mind when they added this feature to Studio.

I am pretty sure those new panels are going to be used in other (supercar / racecar) sets in different ways. But actually I would find some more generic panels more useful (like a flat or curved 3x9, just like the existing 3x11 and 3x7 ones, or corner pieces that we discussed in other threads).

Nice, simple and elegant build! I do think it looks better with larger wheels! How did you make the speed build render? Did you just render all the actual building steps (that you set up manually), or is it something that was generated automatically?

I agree with others that these parts (at least in technic) are not too specific, they are quite reusable, and we are not yet having too much of them (though I'd prefer more new basic structural parts than new panels). Some older parts were much more weird and one-off in terms of usability.

Nice one, I definitely like the improvements on the bonnet and the front! I like those tires as well, they look pretty good, I have been checking them out before, but could not tell from images how well they fit. Do they fit the rims perfectly or is there a small gap? From the underside image, I can see that you are using an old CV joint as well in the front of the drivetrain. Did that ever pop apart if you drive it hard? Did you test this on outside terrain?

I think even that has some valid use case: you can build the same model with open or locked diff just by changing the axle (two parts or a single piece). Not quite like a lockable diff, but one step better than nothing.. By that picture, I would guess that it's not wide enough unfortunately.. It seems to be just the width of the axle itself, like a regular pinhole.

Same here :) Though I am not sure where you get the only 1-2 weeks to go part from :) I mean I guess you calculated it, but it kind of reminds me of situations when someone calls to tell (s)he's going to be 10 minutes late, which means in reality it's gonna be 30 mins at least :D But let's see..

Looks really nice, I like the paneling, the livery is well made, nothing cluttered, just smooth! That was the time when I used to follow F1 races..

Nice one, I have actually been thinking of the same idea (just came back from skiing holiday, and saw a couple of them and got inspired). Just like you, I thought of doubling the tracks, and you driving them with buggy motors is a really good one, the shape of those motors seems like a nice fit for this, and I also like the use of the planetary hubs. I was wondering if it needs more wight on the back so that the tracks get more traction maybe? And also something is weird with the steering, because the play seems more than lego parts would allow for in a typical setup. Maybe too much play in the way the servos are coupled?

That's such a cool idea and a nice looking implementation. Functions sound good too, would really like to see a video of it in action.

@1gor have you tried the regular diff that works with 20:28 gearing? That should give it a bit more speed than your current setup, and I don't think it would be a weak spot, because of the massive down-gearing in the planetary hub, the diff still runs with relatively low stress. I think using the heavy-duty diff and the planetary together is an overshoot in most cases.

That would be a really huge part, are you sure it's not 2 parts joined together somewhere? Is it all visible? In your video, it seems like some of it may be hidden, though I can't see clearly. Although the crane might need such a length.. About the diff lock; the lego website currently says: "Just like the real car, this LEGO Technic version features a V6 cylinder engine with moving pistons, steering, suspension and differential." So I guess they realized that it was a misleading marketing glitch, and corrected it. So don't hold your breath for it..

I totally agree with that principle, I also would not use them in serious MOCs, but it would be nice to experiment with them!

Wow, I saw the WIP but never thought this would end up being so nice! The studful exterior gives it such smooth looks, with the stickers on, it really is hard to tell that it's Lego. Great that all that big model can be driven by a single XL motor so well. Love the way the harmonica is built, simple but effective way!

Yes, thanks, that looks like a good start but I guess that's not a comprehensive list. I like those liftarms ending in pins, and the pin with the towball socket also looks interesting. Wow, that looks great, I have been wanting this for the new heavy duty CV joint. It looks like it has a 3L axle though, right? a 2L version would be more useful, to make a driven 5L independent suspension possible, like what should have been in the Raptor's front axle.. I have been looking at that Humvee a while a go, interesting one. I like how the bodywork combines technic panels with system plates to achieve some smooth surfaces on the doors (compare that to the Raptor's doors) and nice curves around the wheels without looking broken and having gaps. I like the styling of CADA panels by the way. Do you know if it's based on an existing Lego MOC? @Milan do you mean me editing my first post continuously when someone posts a new unique part by copying the link to the image for example? (I guess others cannot edit my first post).

Thanks for making some room for discussion about CADA. This could be really useful. Do I understand correctly that it's also okay to discuss CADA in general, such as its distinct parts? I do have a question that I did not want to ask so far. CADA seems to have a bunch of useful parts that do not exist in Lego technic, such as short flip-flop beams and various connectors. I have been thinking about getting such parts to try them out for building, ad they are easy to differentiate from Lego parts. However, I could not find a site to list such parts, not to mention to buy them by piece. Is there such a place, something like bricks and pieces for Lego parts? I have seen some people posting builds that use a few CADA parts only. Did you get them standalone or from CADA sets?

That piece would be very useful for an RWD/AWD switch for example.. As for the orange gears, it's pretty difficult, as none of the above proposed scenarios seem flawless so far. Based on the images and counting teeth, I like the proposal that it's a non-bevel 12T / 20T pair, but then it's very unlikely that both sizes would be the same color, no? As for theories with 16T gears, I believe the orange color would be too close to the red clutch gear, and would probably give too much chance for confusion in future sets.

Thank you! Glad to hear you like them, and thanks for the inspiration, due to your builds as well, I started to really like the medium scale (especially for RC)!

Thank you, that's the image I was also referring to :) Glad you like the summary, and that you appreciate the clean chassis, that's something I do try to achieve and do miss in some official sets even! Thanks Igor, we agree on those classic evergreens, it's a pity that TLG chooses to model the modern versions nowadays in their new sets like the Defender and the Raptor (for example, the independent suspension is more boring on the new ones). One of these classics could be a good excuse to introduce leaf spring parts..

Great looking model, and I like the implementation of the suspension and it's presentation / testing, makes it really evident that it works well, but I am still unsure how exactly it is done, as I don't see any springs on the rear wheels of the truck. Does it uses torsion bars? Furthermore, I also cannot quite imagine what exactly locates the axles laterally, as those links that I see on the belly image don't seem to be enough for that. Can you give some more details about that part? Also, in the driveshaft, is there a U-joint between the two rear axles? Nice compact motorization by the way! Can you tell me what you are referring to here? It seems to me that the steering geometry is correct, and there should not be toe in. What I rather see on the testing pad is some bump steering maybe, though not sure if it has to do with front suspension geometry.

Very nice medium scale build packed with functions that I haven't even heard about before (but that's just my lack of knowledge on the subject, which is restricted to building the 8862 B model a long time ago, but definitely wanted to give you a heads up for it). I really like the swappable headers, and the bit of system build on it, and those cutter details using the soft axles!

Hi Guys, Here is my second alternate model out of the Ford Raptor set. I finally found an orange subject to be replicated in lego form from the set, that also matched some of my ideas for building something technically interesting out of it. Here is the real car (more images here), a perfect color match, not only the orange body but also the black wheels and front grille, roof/rollbar: Features - Live axle suspension both front and rear - Working steering wheel through linkage mechanism - Functional V6 engine under the hood, rear wheel drive (though I know an FJ should have an inline 6 engine, but not possible here) - Openable doors, hood and tailgate, foldable seats and windshield - Buildable with roll-bar or roof, clean interior, including the bed area As I noted previously when presenting my Class 1 Buggy alternate, I was looking for a way to build a more interesting suspension than the standard independent front. Naturally, I considered building a live axle, and quickly realized that it is not possible to make it driven for the obvious reason of a 4x4 Raptor being 4x2 in the official Lego set.. So it's less interesting, but not a big deal, however, the second problem that struck me is how to build the steering without any joints (only 1 u-joint in the set, used in the drivetrain in the ball joint). This is when I started to think that replicating a linkage based steering mechanism for a live axle could be a fun challenge. Such a mechanism works best if the linkage goes from one side to the other (not from the center), which is ideal when it has a working steering wheel (which is offset to the side) instead of a HoG steering (which is typically centered). And since this car has a removable roof anyway, a working steering wheel is even better suited. So my goal was to make a playable steering mechanism that does not interfere with the front suspension (besides replicating the body). I have to note that the RC models of @rm8 and @Madoca 1977 did inspire me. Madoca's version is based on the original of RM8, and it's a slightly larger scale crawler version of it. What I really like about the original version already (besides being an incredibly dense, cleverly motorized build) is that the RC steering is based on a linkage mechanism (even though its geometry is not perfect). My model in scale is closer to that of Madoca, with slighly smaller wheels, but bigger than that of RM8, so my wheelbase is somewhere in between the two (I scaled to the real car). Chassis So when using a linkage mechanism to steer a car, a steering link typically runs from driver side to passenger side. The longer the link, the better, as it eliminates bump steer better. Furthermore, to minimize bump steer, the angle of the steering link should be such that it is horizontal about when the suspension is compressed halfway. This ensures that in the two extremes, there's minimal length change in the steering link caused by its pivoting, that would result in unwanted steering. So I wanted to get this right, and it is quite easy to do with lego springs. This is because the springs have 6.5 studs uncompressed and 5.5 stud compressed length, so when a spring is attached to the body vertically, as typical for a live axle, it creates a half stud offset to the body's "coordinate system" (position of pinholes) in its uncompressed and fully compressed states. So if one end of a steering link is attached to the body, and the other to the front axle (without any offset), the link can easily be made such that its maximum deviation from horizontal is only half a stud. Given that you have a sufficiently long link, the length difference generated by such pivoting becomes negligable (about 1-2% of a stud), so bump steering will not be noticeable. (Unfortunately, in the build of RM8, the steering link is too short, and it's not angled properly, but of course it is because the servo can only be placed to the center due to lack of space). Even though my model does not have a driven front axle, it was a challenge to build the steering. This is because I wanted to keep the V6 fake engine in the front, and that takes up a lot of space relative to the width of the car (the axles are 13 studs wide, and I did not want to make the disproportionately wide). So the steering linkage had to bypass the engine, the chassis itself and the suspension links as well. Luckily, the set comes with a few gears and framing parts that allowed me to angle the steering axle, and also add some down-gearing to make the turn of the steering wheel more realistic. Because of all the gearing, the direction of steering came out such that if I ran the steering link in front of the axle, it would have been reversed. So I had to run it behind the axle, which meant that I had to put the upper suspension links in front of the axle, which is not too bad because it resembles a bit the leaf springs of the real car. Also, this way the nose could be built as short as it should be according to the real car (barely reaching the front of the wheels). The rear suspension is simple, using the ball joint, but I used the hard springs for the rear, as there I was able to move them more towards the center, which makes them behave a bit more softly. Here is an image of the steering and drivetrain: And here is the chassis with the axles included: Bodywork When building the bodywork, one key part was the long wing-shaped panel that can be used to replicate hood, as already seen in Madoca's version. However, I had to simplify some shapes there as it was not possible to replicate the detailed shape of the hood using only the parts in the set. The same goes for the front, since the Raptor has only stickered lights, so I had to use some gears to replace the round lights. Luckily, some black beams could be used for the front grille, which looks okay-ish, but nowhere as detailed as it could be built from Lego. Another interesting part was the angling of the front of the side, including the doors. After a lot of juggling with parts, I was able to make it look smooth and stable without colliding with the internals (steering column mainly). The small wing-shaped panel is really handy for cutting off the body near the front fender. Finally, some sloped system parts came also handy for building the rear wheel arches. I did not want to use the wheel arches of the Raptor as they are too bulky (protrude too much) and virtually impossible for me to incorporate them smoothly to the rest of the body. In the end, besides building a roll-bar, I was also able to use the remaining large black panels to build a simple roof and mount it on bars. It looks better than I expected, I'd even say with the roof it does kind of resemble the real car with the full body. I'll let you guys be the judge, here are some photos of it, this time I'll use them instead of renders as I feel like I am getting better at making clean photos :) You can find more photos and renders in my Bricksafe. Building instructions are available on Rebrickable. Let me know how you like it! Cheers, Viktor