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It really all depends on what he likes to build. I think he's got enough motors as a start from the Liebherr Excavator. The large angular motor's form factor is mainly useful for tracked vehicles I would say. The color distance sensor will probably be useless without a proper programming environment and Mindstorms / Spike hub. If he likes RC cars, one thing he does not have is proper drivetrain components, such as planetary hubs and CV joints (this, this, this, this). He has the suspension parts from the Land Rover. Also, he does not have proper wheels. Maybe the ones from the Audi are great (tire, rim). But maybe he's more into construction machinery if he wants the crane. But as said above, maybe it's better having a look at the available technic sets and buy a cheaper one than the crane..

That's a really sweet one! I think the 1 Buwizz + 2 Buwizz motors setup is a great one, pretty good power for medium sized models at an affordable price. And I'm glad that you made this layout as it's just something I want to experiment with, so far I have not used the fast outputs coupled and channeled into a gearbox, good to know that the plastic can still withstand that. Did you notice any wear on the gearbox parts? I have also been wondering whether it would need red differentials at this speed or still has enough torque for climbing? Any tests you did with that? On the front suspension there are some 6L links attached to the steering motor. What are those for? Stabilizing the front axle agains tilting backwards?

Just to make sure, did you turn on the gearboxes? :) Or are they left in neutral position? That should engage the red gears..

Pretty cool for the size!

I second this :) I think an entire series of classic off-roaders could be done, in about 1:12 scale, and I guess it would even be popular. The only thing is that those cars have live axle suspension, which is neglected by TLG, but are great fit for 1:12 scale. It would be a great opportunity to improve the selection of related suspension/steering parts (like links in various lengths). Whether RC or not, I'd totally dig this.

Okay, thanks, I can see that now, so it's actually one axle hole and one pinhole that is needed there. And I think you forgot to mention the need of a custom 4.5L axle that holds it :) Though that does not seem to be required, a 5L would also work, it has space to stick out at the front. I guess you mean a linkage based steering like in a real car. I like to use that system a lot, and designed a few models with it. It's hard to get that one compact as well. One problem that you'll encounter is that the linkage needs to pass under the chassis rail and it even articulates together with the axle, so it typically needs quite a bit more space under the rail than the rack based. With the low railing like you have here, the only chance is to connect the linkage to the axle very low, and that can only be possibly achieved from the front (because from the back you have the drive shaft entering). So it will take more space towards the front, which can also be a problem. And also, at this short axle width, you can't even use existing 6L links or even 5L liftarms with towball socket, only short liftarms, that further complicate things and require more space. To remedy all this, I recently came up with a design (well, others and even TLG used something like it in some small models), that could work out pretty well for your case. Instead of having a proper linkage, just push the steering rod around through some sliding servo-horn in a pinhole. Luckily, with a 7L flip flop beam as steering rod, the geometry works out quite well here, like this: The red axle is at the same level as the chassis rail, it can pass under the drive motor and go to the servo directly. I haven't built it though, I don't know how firm it is. The part in the middle of the 7L flip-flop beam is not a pin, but has an axle to allow smooth rotation. BTW, have you tested it with the tractor tires, as in the studio file? It looks pretty cool that way as well, I wonder if those tires work here, or alternatively, with the narrow tires, a bit wider axles could work as well, or maybe the fenders won't like that.

Oh man, I love this. So many interesting solutions in there! And I thought my 9-wide axles I'm working on were small :) Though it's a tad bit larger scale. I love how light-weight your axles are, this solution for the new CV joints seems quite promising, and the spring solution is interesting too, so I'd also be interested in how it can be mounted. And then the chassis itself is so realistic, simple and low! The motor transfer case and steering motor combo is genious! Again, realistic placement. Why is the shortened suspension arm at the rear needed? Just to give space for the steering motor? Can you show more details of the front axle? Where is that 2L half liftarm needed? The bodywork is beautiful and simple enough construction for a mixed technic/system build. I am tempted to buy the Camaro set for all those black/dark red pieces and those new fenders. I just saw it yesterday for 20% off for black friday.. Though I'm afraid that those wheel arches only work with 50mm wheels for the steered wheel, 56 tractor tires would already be too big for them I guess. Oh wait, you said you are using 56mm tyres, right? That's good news.. can the tyres hit the fenders when steered and articulated? And finally great performance. Only thing I could not decide is the suspension softness, sometimes it does not seem to flex enough, sometimes it does seem to do well. I guess it's because the springs are at the end of the axles, and a bit too hard for the weight, but that's a typical problem even with soft lego springs for live axles. Or maybe it flexes to the max and hits the chassis rails? There's only half a stud space under there, right? Great work!

Not sure I get what you mean. 3 towballs in a row and nothing else? And do you mean two ball slots (basically like the 6L link ends) on the axle somewhere? Or why the hub?

It's not about convenience, but rather for a new 3L towball pin like the one above, the existing suspension arms are not usable, since you can't mount them onto the middle towball. Of course, that's what I meant as well, it's just a first idea to show that something like that would be required to accompany a new towball. However, I am not totally convinced about the usability of such parts. The added value would only be for very heavy duty suspensions, which is not the target for lego. Also, such towballs would be hard to build with, because the links could not to be inserted in the end when adding the axle to the chassis. Basically the axle would have to be built into the chassis, which could become pretty complicated to work with.

I believe it was weaker back then, and the modern ones are stronger. I remember being surprised as an adult how hard it is to pull the towball out of the link. Are you using old or new links? Sure, I agree with that in general. I have also tested it, and it didn't quite work after some wiggling. I think this may also depend on the link itself (because I remember I managed to wiggle it through a stop axle end as well a while ago). Also, it may depend on the pin's collar, as far as I remember some pins have a collar that's not a full circle but is flattened in some parts. Anyways, I don't think such a solution would fly where you have to know what you are doing and be careful otherwise you can break parts if you force them. But I also like this solution idea. The axle end could have a stop part before the ball which would prevent it from moving. Like this However, such a part could only be used with links without stoppers, and currently that exists in 6L only. Producing that in much longer variant (which would be required for large scale live axles where this new 3L pin would be used) would only make sense if the whole link was wider/stronger. Something like this (11L here): Though, on larger scales, links of various lengths would be required, and it would also be desirable to be able to attach springs to them, so the best way would be to make them buildable from liftarms. Something like this could be a possible candidate for the end part, and the liftarm in between could be any length: This design could be optimized to have the transition part between the two ends smoother and shorter..

That's an interesting idea I have considered before, because that's how realistic suspension joints are made. You mean something like this, right? Note, that in order to work, the collar needs to be removed from one side, otherwise it is not possible to put the link onto the ball (only with a lot of force). However, not sure that such a pin concept would actually be allowed by lego standards. Also, I don't see too much added value, or even not sure it would work. On one hand, the towball to link connection is usually quite strong, you can often pull the pin out by the link. So if it moves out of place, it is the pin part that disengages. But since we need to remove the collar on one end, then it can freely move into that direction, so it can still get displaced. Furthermore, if you want your link to be properly secured, you can always build something to block it from the other end of the towball, which needs essentially the same amount of space than securing this pin from the other end. So essentially you can achieve what you want already. I have used that blocker technique and it worked for me even on large scale suspension linkages.

Thanks a lot for sharing, you already have one download :) It's enough for digging into some details. One thing you could get used to doing in Studio though is grouping stuff into submodels. Things like the entire roof, or a hood section, or doors. It's easier to work with them as you can hide entire sections, or hinge/rotate them as one unit. BTW, why is there an extra wheel inside the engine bay? Got there accidentally? Anyways, besides the front suspension, I like the chassis structure and the layout of the motors, it's quite realistic and it leaves a lot of space for the gearbox in the right position. Also, nice mechanism for activating that, though a bit complex; I wonder if it could be made simpler with the wave selector.. And nice simple shaping of the hood / dashboard inside. BTW, I just ordered some more of those fenders in dark blue, so that I can build models like this in that color :)

Okay, so I guess the challenge was build something on top of it and then race it? I only found a review of the episode in which they just talk a lot but not show anything.. So it's about whose bodywork looks cooler and who can drive better (the exact same chassis)?

What are they using this for? What's this Lego 2K drive? I only found some video game..

Okay, let's give the guy some actual constructive advice as well.. You have picked a hard challenge, but I think something could be done, depending on how much money you throw at it :) What kind of electronics do you have, and how much experience with motorization? Furthermore, what would you like to use it for? Just to drive around on flat surface, or do you want to take it to some uneven surface as well? I guess you have the model itself, and tried to push it around. I have heard that it does not really roll well on uneven surface, because the legs are kind of wobbly. I am guessing that driving on uneven surface will require powering the steered wheels as well, while for driving on even surface, it may be enough to power the middle wheels. One thing is for sure, if it can be done, it will require motors to be mounted straight to the wheels, on the legs. You could take two (or three) approaches. 1. Official Lego solution: Mindstorms / Spike motors (Powered Up electronics). The best chance is to use the small and/or medium angular motors, but they can be hard to find (only in the (discontinued) Mindstorms and Spike Essentials set officially). You could mount these even to the steered wheels (the end of the legs would be the motors themselves). Or you could use the medium version and mount it to the middle wheels. The steering is probably not that hard, you need to put a motor somewhere in the body to just drive the existing mechanism. You could use either Powered Up technic linear motors, or these angular motors (medium or big one). Besides the availability and the price, another the problematic point of this system is that you will need a battery hub with enough ports to control all the motors you will have. The biggest hub is the Mindstorms/Spike hub with 6 ports. If you only use two drive motors on the middle wheels, and one motor for the steering, you could have three more left for other functions. If you power the 4 steered wheels, and steering, you will only have 1 port left for other stuff. But the large hub will require more space inside the body, which will be tight I guess.. Anyway, I think this could be a fairly simple construction to start, albeit kind of an expensive one. 2. Use Power Functions system with Cada micromotors. https://decadastore.com/products/micro-motor-jv5043 These could be attached to the legs, and will require some gearing to power the wheels themselves, some thing like below, but using the micro motor instead of the bigger one on the image. They could even be used for the steering I guess, after gearing them down. You will also need a battery hub, which could be smaller in this case; with Power Functions receivers, you could power many functions, and multiple motors from the same port. Power Functions electronics is out of production by Lego, but you can find many good enough alternatives on Aliexpress, quite cheap ones. Also, the Green Gecko workshop seems like a good alternative. They have Power Functions receivers that work with radio instead of infrared, which is much more reliable. https://www.greengeckoworkshop.com I think I would go with this second option, buy maybe 6-10 of the micro motors ($15 each), 2-3 receivers and a small rechargeable battery hub, stack 4-6 micro motors on the same port for drive.. One interesting thing is the dual steering system in the model. I think when you select in-place steering, the left and right wheels will have to spin in opposite directions. So maybe you will have to put the left-right motors to separate ports and control them independently, which should be fairly easy, just a matter of connecting the cables. (3) Geekservos These are small, cheap and powerful RC servos that have a lego compatible form factor, that come in continuous rotation and 270 degree variants, but they require completely custom electronics. I guess not the simplest to start with.. Hope this all helps.

Never seen that model of him, truly amazing! I love how the PF system allowed using a single remote to control multiple receivers by switching channels, great solution.

I like all the complex shapes and angles on this one, and it still does indeed look harmonic. I agree that sometimes having a smoother look is better than replicating all the small details at the cost of cluttering it.

That's a neat idea to let the 8T gear pass! I also like those frames that come in two pieces and can be assembled in different combinations.

Thanks, I did find out in the meantime that they are from the Camaro set. It actually seems like a pretty compact construction, mounted from the side, seems like the whole side paneling can be mounted as kind of a large flat submodule, which could even work well on a studless technic chassis. It looks so smooth compared to all the awkward technic fenders, it's really tempting to get some of them :)

Thanks for that link as well! I actually have a 55mm Super Swampers with that kind of pattern from RC4WD (different variant from the one I mentioned above). The material is very good soft, but it's not my favorite pattern either. But variant B and even C look nice, and they are super cheap, so I might give them a try!

Hmm, thanks for the info, that's a pity. I tried the image search, but nothing really came up. The site has other problems than the language, it does not even show the cursor / sometimes the text I type in the search field.. when I upload an image it does not give any feedback. It's hard to search for anything like that..

Thanks for the tip, they do look really nice, I'll take not of those! Do they fit the 30mm rims well? BTW, I figured out those tires in the video are from a Russian site, the video shows it at 3:18, but searching on the site, it seems that those exact ones are not available any more, just something similar, bit smaller, not so detailed. That little truck looks pretty cool, at this scale, even a brick built body works well, the weight can even be an advantage for crawling. What are those fender parts?

Did you manage to find those tires in the video? I like the thread pattern a lot! It looks very similar to RC4WD Interco Irok Super Swampers, but they are not quite the same, and I was hoping that there's a cheaper variant :)

Wow, that's a treasure mine :) I do have a few of these, but some of them are new to me! I like the half O frame, the Z beam, the 4L beam and that steering hub-like thing (what's that?) Where did you get these from exactly, do you have a link to some page? Or do they come from sets? I checked webrick.com that sells GoBricks stuff but did not find those (I did find some L shapes though). That's the only flip-flop beam length I am missing, and I would have needed it once.. Does GoBricks have a web page? I have not found a direct one, only some pages that sell some parts, but could not find these ones.

Same here, though I only bought a minimal number of new gearbox parts, I guess they'll come in other sets in the future anyway. But since I was already browsing, I also picked up a bunch of new DBG panels, some Audi joints/tires, new flip-flop beams, basically found all the new parts I wanted from this year and ordered them in one go :)