arieben

Very nice! great shaping and proportions.

It looks awesome with the old technic panels, tbh. Looking forward to seeing this finished, great job so far.

This is really excellent, JLiu15. Some of the best work I've seen here. Studfull is definitely the way to go... just beautiful.

Such beautiful styling on this beast, you achieved a perfect ratio of old and new technic. I agree with you, about LEGO showing its LEGO-ness.. if I want an RC car with a filled out frame that's what I'll go buy. no offence to the guys who build those kinds of things, this vehicle is just exactly what I love about technic. Great work. The stalwart drive train is spectacular, by the way. Such a strange yet effective way of doing it, and well replicated.

I love the unorthodox detailing methods.. particularly the use of the bottom bits of those old technic beams. The underside is magnificent. It's as though H.R. Giger were in charge of designing classic space.

Wow! I.. don't even know where to start. I'll just leave it at this - there are big builds for the sake of being big, and then there's this. It feels so cohesive and everything is just right. My favorite part is definitely the way you shaped the rocks. I never cared for the slope spam, but this is far beyond that. It's honestly on a whole new level. So inventive. Seriously. The rocks just do it for me. My goodness, that is some nice shaping.

this is exquisite. my nitpicky opinion: i'd love to see it with gray axle pins instead of blue. however that's such a small detail.. this whole build is astounding. :)

Fun fact, the older mold of male CV joint ends (bumpy plastic as opposed to smooth) has a larger effective range of motion. It's hard to get a pic of it but it's noticeable if you check for yourself. I reckon it's about 1 degree. Is this a known fact? It probably doesn't apply in most situations but if there were something that's a bit tight with new cv joints, using old ones might fix it.

it's... perfect. I can't pick a favorite part usage or bit of SNOT, it's all magnificent. excellent job on this. :)

Right - should have linked the thread. I didn't realize how old it was! I will try my hand at making a combination of the two. It seems that using a mechanism at the output is the only way to really resolve the issue of backlash.

Neat.. i wonder how strong. it is definitely compact though that's for sure. i'm still on the quest for a solid intermittent motion device. so far i think @Doug72's solution is the best, since it has the shock absorber right at the very end of the mechanism. perhaps ours could be combined somehow? differential plus the shock absorber thing. i'll have to study it more in depth.

I love everything about this.. great functionality, compact, and gorgeous bodywork. Excellent. I haven't yet built anyone's mocs but I think this may have to be my first. It calls to me.

New update: I have rebuilt the mechanism to be as strong as possible including those new bearings (which work wonderfully, actually). The good news is, it's possible to eliminate the backlash from the linkages as well as the axle or turntable the differential was mounted on. The bad news, however, is abundant. As you can see in the video: -The bearings force the construction to be 6 studs longer and many units wider. - The main concern, backlash, is still present. Especially with the increased length due to the bearings and diff casing, the axles are so long that they just bend. Combined with small but unavoidable backlash of the knob gears, it's quite significant. So, in conclusion.. I think it's a lego problem. I don't believe the mechanism is a problem, since the axles bend before any of it does.. but either way, they do.

I remember that pendragon machine! Haha, it went way over my head the first time I saw it. It still does a bit, I might have to study it a little. I think as long as the math is done correctly what you're wishing for can be done with some combination of adders and differentials. If I can get a way to make the differential without slack, I may just have to try that. I'd be interested in a mechanism like that myself, anyway. Here's what I have so far: http://imgur.com/a/3UX7MBx this bearing seems to work really well. By using 3L bars with the blue pins, I'm able to attach the frame solidly to the blue wheel piece. The knob wheels are held nicely in place by, again, the umbrella stand. So far, it seems to have very little play overall.

I doubt it, considering they still use lego gears.. i tried a 4 gear differential (with thick gears, even) and there was just too much slack. https://imgur.com/a/SQjZ0Co might learn LDD soon so i don't have to disassemble things.. :P but it worked out for this because i was able to re-engineer it to be a bit more efficient and robust. and thanks, @Void_S :) I am going to get to work on bearings. I have some ideas. Please if any of you know pieces that are round, 1 stud wide, and have a pinhole (not an axle hole) in the center AND have mounting points for the differential casing, let me know. For now I'll dig through my collection and see what I can find. the idea is to use wheels with rubber tires (probably the little roller ones) and said round piece as a bearing for it.

excellent part usage with both the panda figurine and the sails.. love it. maybe you could use technic pins and white 1x3 tiles to cover the holes in the sails? that's the only thing to me that doesn't make sense. just nitpicking though, this is a truly excellent creation.

Thanks, I was thinking it could probably be useful for GBC if refined further. it seems most Geneva mechanisms in lego are finicky and not terribly adaptable. Aside from a load that would bend the axles, what you see at the end of the video is the extent of the backlash. I'm pretty much applying a maximum amount of force to it. i think tomorrow I'll try to draft up a version with turntables and 5x7 frames.. Actually, the small turntables are probably better for the task. However, I have precisely zero of those. So unless anyone wants to have a crack at it, I think that'll be on hold for a while until I can get some. * never mind about the turntables. I just tested the large ones with idler gears and they still have the same problem of shifting around. Are there any good purely lego bearings? Everything I try seems so wobbly because of the built in tolerances. Added friction is not a huge issue because the mechanism is pretty heavily geared down.

I was messing around with differentials and found a way to use a linkage to achieve intermittent motion. however, the standard gear diffs ended up having too much backlash so i built this version. In this example, the output stops for 1/5th of a rotation of the input, and makes a full revolution for every 5 rotations of the input. It can be modified to suit any gear ratio, the original one I made with the lego diff pieces was 3:1. The input goes directly to a 2L crankshaft attached to the rocker, which is 6L from the attachment point to the pin it's mounted on. Since what matters is the distance between centers of rotation, this is a 5:1 ratio (the same as the input to the differential, 8t to 40t gear. If i were to do it with a gear ratio of 1:3, then the rocker would be 4L,.... etc). The rocker extends one more stud and attaches to the differential 3L from the axle it's mounted on. this gives it a final 2:1 ratio to cancel out the averaging effect of the differential (B = A + 2C). I dunno, it's easier to make sense of in my head, sorry if my math doesn't make sense. Unfortunately, as I show in the end of the video, I still have the problem of backlash. most of it stems from the fact that the differential is mounted on an axle and can shift around a bit. it doesn't help that it's built out of multiple pieces as well. If you had the space, you could probably use turntables and a 5x7 frame and surround them with idler gears in order to remove most the backlash from the mechanism. this is simply a proof of concept. I figure it could be useful though, particularly because it can handle a lot of torque, and you guys could probably find better ways to optimize it.

Love this. And I agree with Verodin, I don't think it needs bigger wheels. Looks great and performs excellently just as it is.

Great work, it's very clean and robust looking. Now all you need are the Kanye/Ray West minifigures to put in the cockpit.

Spectacular, I particularly like the shape of the trans yellow cockpit you made. And don't pretend I didn't see that znap connector . Great part usage all around.

Excellent video. I'm guessing that the 40T gears would perform much better under load. The trade-off for less friction with the 16t gears is much greater backlash - the teeth on 40T gears mesh much more frequently per rotation, which introduces more friction, but keeps them in better sync.

I've been watching your previous videos over and over again because I've been needing to use differentials to get odd ratios for my GBC module, so I understood this one instantly! Thank you for making this great and unusual content. Love this stuff.

This is amazing! I love the small offset of the rug.

Excellent.. thanks so much, you two. I've figured out a setup. Indeed, easier than I expected with differentials.