2GodBDGlory

I get the sentiment from a Technic fan's point of view, but I don't think it makes sense from a business standpoint, as usual. After all, if you rebranded all these cars as "Racers," the adults they're marketing to would feel like it's just a toy, while as long as they remain under the Technic name, it maintains more credibility through association with the actually functional Technic sets, of the past and present. It's kind of a cheap tactic to make the sets sound more impressive than they are, but I think it must be an effective one (in the short term, at least--the strategy could eventually destroy the "prestige" of Technic). Because of that, I don't think it would make sense for them to go back to that designation, convenient as it would be for us to help separate the meat from the fluff!

I started working on the 2022 update to my book today, and one of the first things I do is figure out all the new parts for the year. I've got a tentative list of new parts here, and I'd like to get some input on whether this is all there are, or whether there's some I missed. Here goes! 5x2 Panel extender Porsche Parallelogram Panel Right Porsche Parallelogram Panel Left Friction stud-pin 60T non-beveled turntable top BMW front spring Motorcycle hub BMW/Ferrari spring BMW Brake disc BMW Wheel BMW Front tire BMW Rear tire BMW windshield 20T Spur gear 12T Spur gear 3x19 Beam 1x1.5 Panel extender Mclaren wing panel Right Mclaren wing panel Left Ferrari tire Ferrari wheel Right Ferrari wheel Left Ferrari short wheel cover Ferrari little triangle panel Right Ferrari little triangle panel Left Ferrari 2x5x3 panel 14T bevel gear 22T differential gear 20T spur clutch gear Swashplate bottom Swashplate top 5-sided rotor holder Swashplate ball Vespa wheel Vespa tire Technic, Pin with Bar and Tow Ball, 3L (Not sure what else to call it) That's gotta be a record number! Anyways, please let me know if I missed any!

Ok, thanks! It looks like a really cool set, and I may try a build once instructions are released. Lots to understand in there!

So does that mean that instead of a traditional 9-speed, he put in a CVT and limited it to nine specific positions? Interesting thought, and maybe the only way to get a full 9-speed into a saleable car, but somewhat disappointing on the realism front. Are the traditional TDR systems with this new wave selector part then just used for some kind of reverse-neutral-drive selector, or a clutch or something?

It's in that "Jesko" set, right? Why is it there? I don't recall anything like that in the original car, so I'm quite curious about it's purpose!

This selector also has the advantage of not interfering with other nearby driving rings unless you want it to. Cool stuff!

Hmm, I can't see how that works either. I'm excited to find out, though! It does seem like a less versatile solution than Lego's, but if they must do it it's not too bad of a solution.

Well, that's something, but I think the only part I'm looking for from that wave is the friction stud-pin, and it doesn't look like it's on there yet... Hopefully the March parts come around soon!

This is going to be quite the extreme model! I'm looking forward to it!

Yeah, it clips on and holds both sides. With enough force it can pop out of the side, but it holds fairly tight.

Thanks! The part locks on there surprisingly strongly, using the clips on the back of that part. It's a very interesting part, because I don't know of anything else that allows axles to be attached that way!

Cool project and nice presentation! You might be able to adjust the steering angle of the rear wheels by using a smaller pinion, like an 8T gear, or by doing two stages of gearing somewhere (one bringing it to the side, and then another to bring it back to the center), with some degree of reduction. I don't know if this car specifically has a central differential, but I would assume it does, just given that it is a road car. Lego isn't always very realistic, so I don't think the fact that they left that differential out of the Sian is too meaningful. Good luck!

I was playing around with 16L links today, and came up with an unusual leaf spring design using them: The link itself is fairly flexible and works well as a spring; the difficulty comes in attaching anything to it! I used this part: https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=32172&name=Technic, Pin Connector Block 3 x 3 x 1&category=[Technic, Connector]#T=S&O={"iconly":0} which can clip onto an axle without sliding from one end. Unfortunately, it would slide forward and backward along the link, so I added a 6L link to place it longitudinally. I'm not sure how helpful this concept will be, but I thought it was a satisfying part usage!

My guess would be that they didn't in the first wave to encourage people to buy the more expensive Jeep to get the tires, and then just kept the same tires for 2022 for consistency's sake. It'd still be worth changing, though!

I suppose the difficulty would be to control both boxes simultaneously. I guess you'd need two remotes coupled? If I ever tried it I think I'd make it an outdoor-only setup. Burning down buildings could be inconvenient...

I got a big lot from a garage sale when I was a kid, and it all smelled like smoke, so my parents ended up rinsing all the parts in a big tub of bleach water, as best as I can remember.

I'm in the same boat, the MouldKing 6.0 box is great, but it doesn't allow for max performance! As for RC-based stuff, there were quite a few solutions from Russia, some of which were discussed in this thread recently: I'm quite intrigued with the "Leshy 2" system mentioned in it, which seems to be a great blend of RC components and Lego compatibility, but I don't think any of these systems are available outside of Russia, unfortunately. Back when I got my MouldKing 6.0 box, I really wanted to find a way to upgrade it to a ~12V setup, so I did a bunch of research, including watching a pretty involved YouTube video in which it was determined that the MouldKing 4.0 box (and presumably also the 6.0) couldn't be cranked much past 9V without damage. In the video he did crank it up that much, but it seems like little gain for the trouble. (I can't seem to find the video again, but it involved modifying their "Green Hound" set, the rip-off of the Greyhound MOC, which might help you find it if you're interested). If anyone ever hears of a cheap, physical controller, ~12V battery, I want in!

I've been trying different solutions for about an hour now, and I've found a solution that I believe may work, built with the red gear rather than the Daytona one (because I don't have the Daytona one yet), but I believe it would work the same. It requires jamming bars into the slots on the gear, which is probably not an amazing solution, and made noticeable marks on mine, but it is fully locked and fits in the standard O-frame. I stress-tested it by stalling a PF XL-motor against it (through a 12T gear in an O-frame; the Daytona gear would have less torque and thus be less affected), and while it would twist up a little bit when stalled, nothing skipped or fell apart in the cycles I tried. It's probably nothing that people of a purer, Lego-like building style will use, but perhaps some people on the "fringes" can make use of it. Unfortunately, I'm skeptical that there's any more "puristic" solution out there at present.

Thanks for the extra detail, and I'll look forward to seeing your more complete post of those electronics! You Russians sure seem to make a lot of high-powered Lego RC systems, between these two and the older RCBricks (or something). I don't suppose either of those are really available for sale in the West?

Man that's cool! It begins to remind me of hobby-grade RC cars, though of course it wouldn't compare in reality. 15km/h is crazy! I remember Sariel's Pagani Zonda topped out about there (15.4, according to Incredible Lego Technic), but that was a light, nimble, supercar. This thing is big, chunky, and even has a gearbox! Amazing power and engineering.

Nice work! You made a good presentation, and have some well-thought-out engineering in there. The dual-stage rear suspension is quite cool! I'm also intrigued with that control hub you're using. You said that it uses two 18650 cells, but also that it can be a 3S battery. Those can't be true at the same time (I don't think), so are those different options? Where could I learn more about it?

Wow! That set does look a bit ugly, but the functionality listed sounds stellar! Even if it doesn't all work smoothly, I'm super impressed.

It might be worth mentioning the "carbon fibre" axles available from certain Chinese companies. I've used a few of them, and while they're definitely stronger than plastic, I did manage to break one. Their advantages would be easier availability and much lower prices, compared to metal.

Sounds like a pretty cool build! My recommendation for a ten-speed would be to build a 12-speed gearbox, based on a 3x4 principle, and just ignore the two gears. I recently built a drivetrain model of a Ford F-150 Raptor with the same transmission, and used a crazy 12+4R transmission that was essentially a four-speed multiplied by a 3+R transmission. It was based on an older 12-speed design of mine with the reverse gear added, which I made an instruction video of here: Because the 12+4R transmission was only used in a display model, I was able to get away with a somewhat weak 20T to 24T mesh, which might not be suitable for an RC model, but the original 12-speed should be more robust. It's pretty tough to get complex gearboxes like these to work in RC models, but I tried to reinforce my designs as much as possible. Good luck!

Thanks for the help; that's probably about the best I'm going to get anywhere, given that the five-pin servo seems to be only used in proprietary designs. You're right about the servo running on only 5V; maybe I should have mentioned that. Yeah, I do have those red and black wires, so that would be a good start. Being rather cheap, I don't really want to buy one and then find out that it doesn't work, but luckily, I'm heading to a buddy's house this weekend, who has a standard three-pin servo for an Arduino. If he's fine with it, I'll plan on testing my controller with that standard servo, and assume that results with a GeekServo would match it. Ok, thanks! I'll take a look at that link. It might get too technical for me, though! [EDIT] It didn't get too technical, and was definitely worth reading to expand my general electrical knowledge! I'm not sure whether it'll directly help me with this problem, but I don't know yet.