2GodBDGlory

Ah, I think I get that. Cool!

Very cool! I like how you used that old red U-joint! Could I get some more information on how the check valve works? I love seeing those old distribution blocks used in creative ways.

I believe in one of his other topics he stated that they are PF M-motor shells with very high-powered dart gun upgrade motors inside. @Aerolight, I believe you once said you were planning on making a video showing how to make these motors. Do you know if you'll be able to do that soon? I'm looking forward to it!

Well, it's been a while since I posted any new MOCs on here! (Nothing since June 1, it appears!) Anyways, I've been working on this MOC most of the summer and into the fall, but it's done now! The model I decided to replicate is the Canadair CL-84, which is quite an intriguing aircraft. It was a Canadian military prototype from the '60s, and had tilt-wing technology to allow for VTOL capability. Especially interesting to me was the fact that all the controls were mechanically controlled, even though a given control would be controlling a different control surface in the VTOL mode compared to the standard mode. I made it my goal to replicate this functionality mechanically, and I did it--in theory only, though, because as usual there was too much slack and friction for certain controls to work. (Mainly the ailerons, but also the main rotor pitch). Anyways, I think this is my largest MOC ever in terms of space it took up, but it ended up being quite full in some areas with the mechanics.(Once I attached the wings, my dorm couch was reduced to about 1/3 capacity for a week or so until I got it taken apart!) Aesthetics: I had to leave a lot of holes because I didn't have nearly enough parts to fill it in, but I think it looks fine overall. Features: Kruiger Flaps: Landing Gear Main Propellors Tail Rotors Wing Tilt Controls (in general) Pitch Roll Yaw Although this model had its flaws, I think it actually worked fairly well overall, looked pretty decent, and certainly had an imposing size! I'm glad to be done with it, but I think it was worth doing. The control-selecting mechanism was particularly interesting to design. You can see more images at: https://bricksafe.com/pages/2GodBDGlory/miscellaneous (Yeah, I accidentally dumped them in my miscellaneous folder again...)

Thanks for posting this! I've been looking forward to it for a while! I love the clever things you did to successfully transmit these levels of power without immediately destroying parts!

Ooh, that's very interesting! I don't think I'd need to get many parts to be able to build any set in any colors, and even being able to build any one set at a time doesn't appear to be prohibitively expensive. It's not something I'd plan on doing, but are you able to get an easy estimate of what buying those 22013 pieces would cost?

Ah, I just finally understood what you're doing there! It's an interesting idea, and one I've thought about a bit before. I'd be curious to know how many total parts will be necessary!

Well, it's true that the purple is pretty useless, but it is one of those sets that actually has hardly any of a color, and yet becomes kind of defined by it, so at least not too many of the parts are useless. It's also my only set from 2017, and I'd agree that it's the best one.

Very cool! That chassis looks nicely engineered, and the electronics and custom parts are always interesting. Your criteria for the bodywork make me laugh! "There are many things that can be improved in the bodywork, but the current one perfectly satisfy my needs: it is light but make the car somewhat recognizable as a car."

Very cool design!

I've just completed my 2022 addition to the book, with all of the new sets for this year added! Here is the link to the new version: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1y67yGqrN190WPzZ2GDrCCMyIuSGi2HH3/view?usp=sharing As before, let me know if you spot any errors, or if this link isn't working!

Ah, thanks! I didn't think to check out-of-stock parts.

Huh, I'm not seeing them. One of these days!

Oh, good to know! I'll stop checking for the Jesko instructions for a while, then

Wow, good work! That looks very compact, and adds a great feature the original set was missing!

Yeah, me neither, looking on the US site.

I suppose you could make pretty much indefinitely long steering links by chaining beams together with suspension arms attached to them. It looks like an interesting model to design!

Something like that could work, but in my experimentation, a 1x4 plate was held significantly more securely.

One thing you could try is putting a 1x4 plate on top of the track link, and then attaching some kind of bars to the plate. It might not look as good, but the plate-to-track connection is fairly strong.

To clarify, it can go all the way through the middle hole, but the other four don't allow it to go through.

Yeah, I find that when using the small pumps, they'll just give up somewhere between 20 and 30 PSI, and just slip after that. I suppose you could add some kind of relief valve by hooking up a small cylinder to a valve, with a rubber band keeping it closed. If you got it tuned right, you could make it so that once the pressure got high enough, the cylinder would extend against the rubber band, open the valve, bleed pressure, and then shut it off again via the rubber band. It would be kind of like the auto-compressors people sometimes do, but with the opposite purpose! I've never gotten those compressors to work as well as I'd like, so I probably wouldn't try this. It'd probably be nasty to make reliable, and all the friction in the valve would be a challenge.

Huh, that's a thought! My first plan was to design a jig to reliably notch it with the Dremel tool, but it didn't seem to work great for me. It would be nice to come up with a reliable, automated way to do it.

Well, I read this thread quite a while ago, but I guess this comment stuck in my mind... I'm working on a MOC right now where flex system parts could be invaluable, but while I have a handful of the ends, I only have two cables, so I decided to try @syclone's idea and make flex system cables out of 3D printer filament. I'm using 1.75mm black PLA filament, which is a perfect size. My .1mm resolution digital calipers can't tell the difference between the original and the filament, and neither can I in practice. The only tricky part was cutting the notches. Originally I tried a fancy solution involving a drill and Dremel tool (as I realize someone suggested on here, as I reread it), but I had no success. In the end, I just took my small, sharp Swiss Army Knife and started carving away, going around the diameter, and was surprised to find it worked great! I've just made an 8L one so far for testing, but it seems like it should be easy and dirt cheap to make ones of any length I need now! (Well, apparently 335 meters is about the limit of a single 1kg spool, but I can't see applications for anything that long!). Since I already have plenty of filament, it costs me about nothing, but if any of you who aren't into 3D printing are interested in trying to make some yourself, you can get really tiny spools (designed for 3D pens) dirt cheap, like this $2 one here: https://www.amazon.com/Basage-Filament-Temperature-Printing-Supplies/dp/B085Y61WKJ/ref=sr_1_2?crid=1A0X42Y0WY8TD&keywords=1.75+pla+filament&qid=1662516001&sprefix=1.75%2Caps%2C170&sr=8-2 Here are some pictures of what I got: EDIT: I was just playing with mine, and it turns out that if you twist it too much, it'll break, so maybe don't use it in any applications that require a ton of twisting.

Yeah, that's something to think about. I tend to see that as equivalent to a remold, though, so maybe I'll just make a point of mentioning it in the set profiles.

Thanks! Good to see you can do searches like that. I think I'll keep my list as-is, though, because it looks like of those parts, the only ones I didn't include haven't really been used in Technic sets, and would fall outside of my fairly subjective boundary line.