Gray Gear

You could replace the inside Part of the shock with a normal Technic axle...that inside part is made of pretty soft plastic, a normal axle is way more stiff.

NO. 8043 is far from Perfect as well. The way you had to switch between functions is terrible. Nonono. 1Motor, 1Function, thats the way to go.

Wow, thats amazing! Keep the weight down, thats some amazing power right there

The smaller links are made of softer plastic indeed...probably to make it easier to clip the links together.

If you take a look at my NSX, I also used a twin shock setup in front, and a quad spring setup in the back (2 Hard springs and 2 soft springs per wheel.) Its just right, puwerful to not give in when playing with it, but giving in when the model is crossing an obstacle. I want it to be like that on this model as well.

Next to the engine has to be enough space to fit a detailled Turbo setup, maybe even a Sequential Twinturbo if I can fit it. I dont want the suspension to engage when I rest my hand a little on the model using the HoG. The model will be probably about 2.5 kg, with a little more weight at the back, so there will be ~1kg on the front axle. I just want a constant rideheight when playing with it.

Of course there are still some reinforcements missing, especially some crossbars to prevent flex from side to side, but you can put a 1L Bottle water on top without anything flexing or the shocks giving in.

Here it is:

I'll post pictures of my current suspension setup once I am at Home.

I noticed that as well...I dont think cutting up pieces counts as "achieved by putting thought into it" in the LEGO world

I dont get it - saying everything is possible with perfect steering geometry, if you just put enough time and effort into it is easy. But let me tell you, there is a limit you will hit, that limit depends on the way the vehicle is built. Believe me, I put in multiple weekends just developing and improving on this setup. Also, how am I supposed to place the link on the opposite side of the spring, if there are springs on both sides? I did mention i need a double shock setup per wheel, right? And it has to be symetrical, so all the load is distributed evenly. Maybe I'll do a help Thread for this, so someone experienced can show me how it is done. Then one of the admins could move this entire conversation out of this comment section. Like i said, I do not think the Supension setup for the 240 is bad, It will probably do fine If he keeps an eye on the weight. Its just me that would not be willing to put it to such a heavy task.

I dont want to insult anybodys work here, as I am far from perfect myself, but excuse me, that suspension setup is neither particularly compact, nor is it overbuilt, I myself would not trust this setup with a <2.5 kg model. You seem to know a lot more about suspensionthan me, so you might be able to surprise me: I need a twin shock setup with double wishbones on the front wheels, the wheel has to be mounted between two studs. The suspension is not allowed to be taller that the wheel itself, and is only allowed to go 4 studs to the inside behind the wheel. The setup has to be able to hold 1kg without any compression of the shocks or flex in the setup. The space between the suspension has to be free, but a cross bar is allowed. Groud clearance of the vehicle has to ~2 studs. The bottom of the vehicle has to be 2 studs thick only, including the steering. I doubt you can achieve that with perfect steering geometry.

You are right, but it does require more space to build strong AND accurate. Space I dont have so compromises had to be made

I think you are the current "Power Wars" champion...Congrats! What a beast of a machine.

I can live with bump steer. Its not like it will ever matter at it is a Sportscar with 1 Stud suspention travel, and very hard suspension, so It will never happen when I play with it (manual model). As I said I dont have a coice anyways, a dual shock setup is nececary. I myself prefer a strong, functional suspension setup over a weak one with perfect geometry. I overbuild my suspention, because I hate the thought of bending/breaking stuff. That comes at a price, so I had to make some compromises.

The wheels are straight my man. The lenght I lost by offsetting the links is regained by having the links horizontaly straight, while the wishbones are are going downwards. I know this might not be ideal, but it believe it is pretty good as long as the suspension is not giving in. The real reason why I had to offset the link was to clear the shock absorbers anyways, not to achieve perfect steering geometry but as far as I can tell, it works fine.

On the model I am working on right now, I have the steering links placed behind the axle, and the links are offsetz to the back by 1 stud. I compared it to my NSX, which features a classic ackermann setup, and from what I can tell it has the same effect: The inner wheel gets angled slightly more than the outer one. I dont get how this is supposed to be worse than no ackermann....

Wow, that is some advanced suspension geometry right there. Ackermann steering is achieved by having the steering links set up at an angle, right? Also, there a few places built with quite delicate building techniques. I would try to beef those up.

Wow, I really like That engine I did not even see the cyliders down there, my bad. Reminds me of the Engine I did for my NSX, its the same style: Cover the cylinders up, make it look like the real Engine, and leave small gaps to see the pistons moving. Turned out great

This should not be a problem in my opinion, the difference of the one piston should not matter, its such a small weight difference...as long as the engine is running smooth. I still suspect the cause of this issue to be friction in the drivetrain.

I feel like there is quite a bit of friction in the Drivetrain, more that I would be comfortable with. When you pushed the model in your Video, the engine had some delay from the movement of the car, and when it started to move, it spun a bit faster than normal for a short time. I believe this is due to wind up in the Drivetrain, caused by friction. I may be wrong, but it sounds just like my last Transmission prototype&drivetrain, which I scrapped because of too much friction...

This car was alredy made a while ago, as the B-Model of the Orange Porsche. You better give it all you've got . Just joking man, dont let me preassure you and just do your thing What do you have planned for the inner Workings? That engine does not look like it has any moving Pistons inside of it. An Inline 6 is pretty long, but that Hood is also pretty long soooo.... Also, watch out your model does not get too heavy for that suspension setup, a 1:8 car can get heavy pretty quick. A single Hard sping per wheel will compress quite a bit on a model >2.5 kg, wich you will probably end up with. Just saying.

Looking good! You could get yourself some of these black pins from Aliexpress reasonably cheap, just saying But you probably dont want to mix them with your LEGO bricks, understandable. Such a Black Car is impossible to keep clean, its always dusty, its the same with my NSX

I did a quick prototype for you

Thats troublesome...These hard Hozes could work, but idk, I've never tried to use them fot Wheel Arches....