Trekkie99

Oh my goodness! That is such an awesome usage of a part that I would've considered useless! Coolest Lego monowheel ever!

I'm not sure at the moment if I'll have the time, but if i do I'll be sure to sign up! Haven't played mafia in a while.

Woah, thats pretty dope!

Thats the cutest little train I've ever seen!

Nice!

Woah! Nice collection of switches. The Y switch rail looks very nice. I'd love to see the crossing rail switch in action! @MonsieurCaron, I saw your monorail on Flickr. It looks and runs great!

Hello and welcome to Eurobricks! Thats a very fine smooth running model you have there! I'm so glad to hear that we've inspired you to make your own monorail, and I hope to see more of you and your monorail here on Eurobricks!

Bruh. Something like 34 spam topics have been posted by one guy in the General Lego Discussion forum.

Saw your Ice Planet version of your Ideas model on Flickr @Exetrius. Very cute!

Ooh! I like that! That would be really cool.

Hi @sed6! I really like your design! Clean and elegant. Now that you have your design, you can set about making it motorized and runnable on the track. In your last picture which showcases the skirting on the monorail in correlation with the track, there doesn't appear to much clearance if any. This is a problem because in order for the monorail to run along the track properly, your going to need to use guiders. You can see them being used in red on this motor bogie. Depending on where the guiders are located underneath the monorail in correlation with the distance in length between the guiders will dictate what the length and/or design of the skirting can be. (Note: I usually don't have the skirting on my monorails go pass the wheels because if my monorail has the ability to take very tight curves, it can do that. Unlike if the skirting went past the wheels and partially covered the rail to whatever extent in which case it may rub against the rail. Does it look as good when the skirting doesn't cover the wheels and rail? No, but it would make the process of designing your monorail much easier. :-) ) Back to the discussion of guiders, the max length in distance between the guiders will depend on what the smallest curve radius is that you'll intend to use your monorail on. The max length will be when if the guiders are spread apart any further, it will start to create resistance and drag and negatively affect the monorail's performance. Another thing that creates a lot of resistance and is often overlooked is the distance between the wheels. The farther they are apart, the greater the resistance. Imagine trying to turn while riding a bicycle whose front wheel can't turn. The only way you could turn is to drag the front wheel across the pavement in the direction you wish to turn. It's the same thing happening with the monorail when the wheels are to far apart. Also like the bike, the solution is the same. I personally recommend that each monorail car should have one fixed wheel* [motorized or unmotorized (a wheel that doesn't turn)*], and one bogie wheel that turns. There are different ways to design a bogie wheel. I recommend a design similar to one made by @FiliusRucilo or something like it. Here's a picture of one of his designs. And finally, motorization. I definitely recommend starting out using small wheels. They'll allow more room for when you're working with the gearing. As for worm gears, I've never used them, but I'd definitely give it a shot if I were you. I recommend you keep your gearing low. I personally prefer a slow & strong monorail vs a semi-fast & semi-weak monorail, but depending on how smoothly your monorail runs will probably be the deciding point. Both my first monorail design and my suspended monorail design can run very smoothly even on the slowest speed setting when using the seven speed remote control. I used this as somewhat of a test when I was designing the monorails. I hope this will be helpful. Let me know there's anything in specific you'd be wondering about. Cheers! LMF

Pretty dang sweet is what I think!

Oooh yeeeah!

I've just been preoccupied by other hobbies/things. Needn't worry though, I haven't lost interest in this project.

Awesome model! The mouth design is my favorite part. It really completes the whole build.

Glad I could help! Looking forward to seeing your progress.

Woah! That's lit! The monorail in particular is very nice. Is the monorail on wheels so it can be pushed along the track or is it purely cosmetic?

Hi @sed6! CRS is an acronym I coined which stands for Custom Rail System(s). CRS designs are usually monorails, but if someone were to make a CRS that has two or more rails, they could still apply the acronym to their model because the acronym is broader unlike if the acronym were something like CMS (Custom Monorail System). Yes, a 19 link long section makes 1/8 of a curve which means a full circle is 152 links, and a 152 link circle has a radius of 46 studs. To make curves that correlate with TLG's official train track, you'll need 31 links per 1/4 of a circle. As for the girders, is there a specific design your referencing? Cheers! LMF

Pure evil. Nicely done!

Here you go. https://ideas.lego.com/projects/78b2bd22-8d4b-4ba7-b366-a790888f196a Very cool @Exetrius!

Bravo! Nicely done. ?

Yeah that's um... I'm getting "The Shining" vibes from this one. Fun diorama!

I see, thanks! Woah! Thanks for sharing those! The second one gave me a laugh.

Wow @djm that's a cool design!!! I always wondered if it was possible to make a fully Technic version based off of my motor assembly idea, and you've done it quite nicely! I also really like your derivative of my original design as well. Sorry to hear that it tends to loosen itself apart. Was the intention for raising the connectors done so you could accommodate @FiliusRucilo's bogie wheel design?

Adorable! Love Laurel and Hardy and your brickhead versions really capture them well.