Marxpek

Maybe consider the 42030. It is a bit pricey maybe but It contains all 4 motors and 2 ir receivers.

this is within an old style gearbox like the 8860? the axles there have to span quite some unsupported distance and might flex, any way to put a 3L beam inside the gearbox that braces the 16z gears maybe?

Not really, the less gears the better, but it might help if there is 1 specific weak point where the drivetrain always breaks with added power, but it will most likely just move the point of breaking to another set of gears or connection. maybe try with a XL-motor if you do not have a 2nd L-motor available. What exactly breaks in your drive train? is there no way to strengthen this? are these parts as old as these wheels?

I thought it was standing still now? speed on a 1.4kg vehicle with 1 L-motor is very limited, especially with these wheels (wich are ligther then expected, but have terrible roll resistance and rotational intertia), and if the drive train breaks with more power.. i see no other options then making it lighter or gearing it down.

Well i think you just have to gear down then, sounds like it is just too much for 1 L-motor, have you tried a 20:12 ratio? if that is possible Or make it lighter? check the drivetrain on 3rd gear? are all gears ok? running smooth without load?

you might add heavy there ;D My best guess is you are hitting some kind of thermal protection, either in the L-motor, the ir- receiver or the BB. Will it move in the 3rd gear if you power if purely from the battery box, leaving the receiver out?

are you gearing up remotely on the move? or are you trying to drive off in the 3rd gear? the gearing does not sound that extreme to me but might be on the edge for 1 L-motor. The size of the wheels are kind of important here, but i have a feeling you are using big ones, else it should have no problem moving.

agreed ;) but i must try to see what happens later on ;D @Permo you mention that the v2 can power 2 L-motors, but isn't that 2 L-motors per port? like in the crawler? so it can power 4 of them total right? @Tarix819 what type of motors gearing and weight will you be using? i think that is what they draw whit the battery box turned off , aren't they the most inefficient motors around? apart from buggys ofc.. But in general a v1 should be enough to power just 2 L-motors, maybe with insane gearing it will cause issues, but should be fine. To get back on hardcoupling motors: i happily hard-coupled 4 buggy motors powered by 2 different rc-units and set a speed record with it, so i would not worry about it and hey, if it breaks, it breaks.. lesson learned.. next?

no it wont, the v2 simply allows more current per channel, That is why the 9398 crawler needed the v2, it has 2 L-motors on 1 channel, so the servo can be on the 2nd. It can deliver more amps than a v1 receiver, so it can power more motors, however the battery box is still limiting the current unless you have a LiPo box. maybe running 1 motor off 2 v1 receivers will do the trick, but it does not sound like a good idea to me, that would mean an "electric hard-couple" ;) (never tried it, but sounds doable with 2 extension cords and a 9v lead-plate, and of course the correct polarity at all times..)

I have also sent ron1 a mail about my issues with the voting I have also sent a mail to Ron1 about this, the voting seems flawed in many ways, and since there are no rules or instructions for it: anything was allowed technically, a mistake i guess. so i suggested this a few days back and i have suggested it again in the mail to Ron1: please send all contestants to the judges and ignore all voting results.

can i suggest bringing all entries to the judges? the voting does not really seem to pick the best contestants, I also heard from people that can vote twice, while others can't vote at all, I fully understand it was meant to bring online exposure for the company, but i feel it was just a test to see who has more online friends to get the votes in.. of course giving exposure, but not to the right (Lego minded) people, who might buy a buwizz.. I must say i am a bit disappointed that you think this after seeing my video And i sure as hell do not hope you mean my car by a sped up car... And what is jumping? do we have to go up? if we jump off a cliff, do we go up? the contest suggested jumping off a sidewalk, minimal height: 10cm drop, so i would say any controlled form of tackling a drop with the car counts as a jump. Jumps are easily performed but you need a few basic things like: stiff suspension, perfect angle of the ramp, speed, perfectly positioned COG and determination, my newer car with 2 buggy motors, which i made just for fun during the contest, went over the same ramp and even went 2,50m! check my channel for that one! In theory 3 L-motors (was allowed here) would be more powerful than 1 Buggy motor, however for a fast car we need to gear them up, depends on how much energy is lost on that friction and how much the weight difference would be, but looking at their specs the total mechanical output is fairly similar, then again... i started out with 3 L-motors, but dropped them for a buggy motor... and to be honest the buwizz was made for the buggy motor in my mind, it is the only thing that can fully power them (apart from the rc unit) for me: it was the sole reason to buy them, power the hungry buggy motors.

@mj002I guess these pictures show most details needed to build it. As for controlling it: really start with the lowest gear ratio as shown in this picture and work your way up. I also use the brickcontroller 0.32 app from imurvai, it will allow you to make straight runs or turns, i had 2 setting for each turn, a fast turn (1 motor at 100% output and other at 80%) and a slow turn ( 1 motor at 80% output and other at 60%), just play with the output levels untill it meets your demand, i also had 1 slow straight and 1 fast straight button, but never use the fast button from a standing position, it will most likely trip the circuit protection, first use the slow button, then switch to the fast button, on top of that is it controllable by just using the joysticks on my controller, but it is very hard.

add a M-motor and add it with the buggy motors wiring circuit, it will only run when driving. But I think i will stick with the regular pump. Still considering to use the Claas tires, the ground clearance is like 1 plate at the moment.. can't wait!

you mean the sides sticking out? those are just the horizontal stabilizers of the submarine that Lego forgot to put on the original Steering is solved and integrated, it is not great but good enough for a dragster, it is almost done to be honest,, it can do wheelies when using the Unimog tires, just as i aimed for, while also being pretty fast with short indoor tests, my best guess is it will go about 17 km/h if it does not destroy itself, which probably is the more likely result. All the original functions have been saved, except for the manual pneumatic switch, that is now remote controlled. I am still considering to build in a compressor to feed the air tank, but then again: the air tank holds enough air to use the actuator a few times, so it would just be overly complex with not much added function maybe, but then again.. why not? any opinions? Another question: CLAAS wheels or Unimog wheels? It is kind of fun (and sort of difficult) to make good brick built connections and think in even numbers again opposed to the "new" uneven building system, nice flashback to get out of the comfort zone a bit :) More images soon!

a bit like this maybe? Very much a WIP, the steering is still a mystery (to me..), but the pneumatic switch is remote controlled now... motor/ wheel placement still uncertain, but it is a start!

better make it deduction when using rc items? (rc unit and buggy motors) i guess i can power 6 L-motors with a rc unit.. and i am still using PF that way.. But thanks for letting them in! ;D

great! count me in! if you want to equalize the play field: exclude the rc unit aswell maybe or maybe even the buggy motor, they are overpowered compared to PF- solutions. (you won't hear me complain if you keep them in ;D just keeping it fair and give the heads up )

Great idea, but is this contest allowed by the forum? I entered AMS-1 but... we all know what happened..

Thanks for all the kind words everyone! this is not my entry for the contest, my 2 meter jumps orange buggy is, this one would not be allowed with 2 buggy motors, and it was called a fast car competition for a car that could jump, so a tracked vehicle might not have been the best idea. But i am glad it made you laugh! I am and doing pretty well and i promise you this: if i win first prize i will mod the chiron with a few buggy motors and send it over the same ramp! if you haven't voted yet please consider voting for me! (similar thumbnail) https://buwizz.com/buwizz-fast-car-competition/#view=gallery (sorry for the shameless self-promotion, but hey.. it's a chiron we talk about ;o) make sure everything breakable is out of the way :D

This is my latest BuWizz creation, it is a remake of my first and worst MOC-video, using a s-brick in the old one, the buwizz allows it to be even smaller. It has 2 buggy motors, and 4 rubber tracks, in this picture the upper track is powered by a buggy motor on each side, the lower track is running free, but the tracks mesh extremely well and they will not slip at all, so it can drive on either side, however this side up gives the best ground clearance, and the least risk on damage on the connectors or buwizz, also note the 4L halfbeams in front of the connectors, a pure shield.. it also has 2 little black bumpers, wich help it pick a side when it lands on the front, they help it roll, in stead of "eating" the floor it can work with the 24t-12t and 20t-16t gear combinations, in the 1:2 gearing this thing is extremely fast for its size and hard to drive, but it is doable, for this i use the brickcontroller app @imurvai created and a usb gamepad with OTG-cable, without this setup i was not able to control it in any way, even with this i hard to learn to drive with lower gear settings (slow buwizz settings are just not an option for me, sorry). It has single bogie torsion bar suspension, which does.. very little, but i think it was a nice little addition, it also functions fine without them. So here is a video of it in action: and just asking: is this thumbnail too much click bait? it actually does the climb, but... well check the video ;) I hope you like it!

For my latest creation with skid steering i am using an samsung S5 + OTG cable + (very old) logitec usb analog joypad, I tried a few controllers, but wired seems the easiest, it never breaks connection and less bluetooth means less latency i'd say, and the cable may even act as an antenna for the bluetooth? And not every controller wants to work, for example the nintendo switch pro controller can only hit 0.70 output on the analog pad while a full 1.0 is needed to set it up (the joycons work but they are actually no analog controllers, just a D-pad) that would be great indeed! But i must really complement @imurvai with this app, it makes the buwizz much more versatile!

conveniently bumping my topic with pictures and some background information when the voting starts ;) this was supposed to happen 3 weeks ago but some changes where made to the contest so this was delayed as well. The most complex about this build was bracing the buggy-motor and the differential in a compact way, i wanted all axles to be double-braced to prevent gear slipping, which is pretty hard with the power of a buwizz and a 90 degree mesh, but it works very well! Looking at the competition using a diff is rare, but since i designed this to be used on asphalt with big tires, it needs a diff, no diff would have been much easier and maybe even faster in a straight line, but i wanted it to be agile as well. The car is relatively heavy since it is heavily braced in multiple directions, i wanted it to be solid, the only part that ever came off on a severe crash, is a rear wing. I wanted the car to stand out in color, the orange with yellow details really makes it pop and all the kids in the skate park wanted to play with it, so i think the colors work well for this design. I also made sure the car was balanced, making sure it will jump straight, the COG is exactly at the hinge point of the rear section, which is the center of the car, making sure it jumps straight and lands on both wheels at the same time. I realize i am very much the underdog in the competition, not having the amount of followers of other entries by well known builders/youtubers, so if you like my car and video, please consider voting for me so i might end with the last 10! https://buwizz.com/buwizz-fast-car-competition/

Thanks for the kind words, but to talk like the most famous technic youtuber: this is NOT a Lego set, this is NOT for sale, i might consider making instructions tho, however it is pretty basic in design. well it performs better, but it is not for the competition, using 2 buggy motors is bending the rules a bit too much i'd say ;) besides that: this design might loose a part or 2 upon crashes, my urban buggy is built way more sturdy and will not lose any parts on crashes. I know it is fairly easy to edit out losing parts so i have no clue why there the -10% rule for that @Ron1 ? However most of the time you can see by the build quality if it will loose parts on crashes/ hard landings. @Didumos69 Are you still entering? i'm pretty sure you are secretly working on something! ;)

Lovely build and scale! Good luck in the competition! Next time: take pictures before racing outdoor ;) your servo looks pretty banged up.. a good sign in my mind but not great for pictures :)

I'd like to present my latest BuWizz creation: I like to think of it as a tribute to my beloved 8366 and 8475 sets, which I never get to play with, because i need their motors for other projects, projects like this..It also explains the somewhat cheesy name of the car.. This is a 8475 / 8366 hybrid on steroids and the most fun i have had with an RC car in ages! Here is the video: i hope you like it!