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mocbuild101

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Everything posted by mocbuild101

  1. Well don't take this the wrong way, but that's because your MOCs aren't really that great, and they are nowhere near the quality of the MOCs that get lots of comments. Your MOCs are good in design, but the presentation lets them down - by that I mean the mixed colors, and the poor quality (mainly the bad background) of the photos. And really, the number of comments also reflects how good the main post is - not just how good the MOC is...
  2. There is a banana part, but yours doesn't look like an original Lego part.
  3. Great work! Now you just need to make a plane to go with it...at the same scale!
  4. I agree, the Eneloops I use have 2500mAh captivity - more than 6x more than those lipos! Well, not really... take the Eneloop pro for example - even if you charge them twice a week, they will still last 5 years. (they can be charged 500+ times) Yes, and that also applies to Eneloops, but it's not much compared to the EV3 set... I guess I should add a link to the Eneloops after all the talk about them! Here they are: Eneloop (standard), Eneloop Pro, Wiki page
  5. I use Panasonic Pro Eneloops, they work great, and because of the high captivity, they last for ages! In fact, I ONLY use Eneloops for EV3, as well as for all my other Lego - I have had bad experiences with alkaline and cheap NI-MH (including one that exploded while charging!).
  6. Hmm... if there is nothing on it at all, then it's most likely not Lego - I would check the really tiny flat spots on the part. (maybe next to the hinge, or inside the pins) I'm sure this part isn't Lego, the molding just doesn't look right - but then again, I guess the photo isn't perfect...
  7. Oh yeah, they are the same... and also very much like megabloks pins! As far as I know, yes... And my megabloks experience only came from one bulk lot I got which was only 25% Lego! ( and I certainly don't wish to repeat that again! ) Oops, I'm going a bit too far off topic...
  8. This should be Lego, just check the inside for any numbers or writing. This is definitely NOT Lego - the pins are clearly megabloks style. (but as @Exetrius said, there is a Lego version of it) Well obviously these are all Lego, the odd coloured clip is just made from a slightly different plastic. (like @62Bricks said above)
  9. Well that's a start, maybe you could try to Shift+left click on the image (on your laptop), it should come up with a few options - one of which should be "edit image".
  10. I like it! It's something different for a change!
  11. As far as I know, BBCode isn't needed, and all you need to do is this: Go to the image you want to insert -> copy/paste the URL (it should have a image file extension on the end) -> wait for it to automatically embed -> resize the image by double-clicking it and editing it. Hope that helps...
  12. I see, it actually looks much better when you compare it to the original.
  13. Nice! The sides don't look very good, but the front looks great! Also, Welcome to Eurobricks @Nura
  14. That is a bit strange, but it seems to have fixed itself, because your post count is at 594.
  15. I would make sure all the gears and axles have a slight wobble to them, and check the clutch gear. But if all else fails, the best thing is to rebuild it. Also, welcome to Eurobricks @Max The Ace
  16. Just go to your profile, and click on your profile picture to edit it. I don't know if it's any different on a iPhone, but it shouldn't be...
  17. Yeah, I guess so, but it's still not that different... Also, the different speeds of the motors are most likely caused by the age difference of the motors - I would be good to know the production codes of the motors, and what RPM those motors turned at, to see if I'm right.
  18. Hard-coupling motors is not really that bad, because the speeding up and slowing down of the motors is nothing different from what they go through when used separately - consider the motors in a car or truck, they are slowed down by the weight of the vehicle when accelerating, and the are forcibly turned by the momentum of the vehicle when stopping. So, there is nothing to worry about when hard-coupling motors - all you need to do is make sure they are the same type of motor, and that they are geared the same - nothing else!
  19. Great idea, but probably not the best tracks for a small model... But they could easily be used for GBC, just put some pins in the holes that are facing outwards, and it would make a great conveyor!
  20. Wow! I can't believe such an amazing can be made with technic! Hall of fame worthy? Most definitely!
  21. Nicely done! And of course, I prefer the all black version, the white/black/red combo just doesn't look right. I will certainly be thinking about building this, if only I didn't have to use LDD instructions...
  22. I think it's great, and I don't think there is anything that need improving - at least until you start on the non C-model!
  23. I generally sort parts by type, how many I have, and by how often I use them - for example, my pins and axles are sorted completely by type - not a single part is grouped with another - because I use them in everything I build, and I have heaps of them. But something like panels are put together in one container - because I don't use them much, and I don't have many. But there are some exceptions to this, such as pneumatics and liner actuators - which are put together just because they both do the same job I my MOCs.
  24. I like the second hood, because the red doesn't look right on the first hood, and you will also have more beams for the spray arms. As for the spray arms, if you try to keep the beams as close together as possible, it will look much better. I would start by joining the 7L beams together, and then join the 5L beams on the end, keeping the thickness to only 2 beams.
  25. This sounds interesting and fun, and I definitely meet the requirements - especially the one about having enough sets to review! And considering I was already thinking about doing reviews of some of my sets, I think this would be great! @WhiteFang, count me in!
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