.gif.ee836e79fcfd0138fa44732facf174e4.gif)
mocbuild101
-
Posts
1,676 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Everything posted by mocbuild101
-
.thumb.gif.ad7c8d88b264ee812194946c07404504.gif)
Well yes, it wouldn't hurt to give it a go... we seem to be trying everything else! -
I think we have all settled into our own topics already... But I do agree with @PorkyMonster, I would be good to have a topic that combines all the speed records in a standardized way.
-
That wouldn't work... those panels would only create enough lift to lift themselves (at most) at the speeds we are going at. So really all it would be doing is adding weight (slower acceleration) and air resistance (slightly slower top speed). Doesn't everyone know that flying Lego is impossible?!
-
Rules and tips for selling MOC instructions?
mocbuild101 replied to General Magma's topic in General LEGO Discussion
I think Bricklink and Ebay are great places to sell instructions, while Rebrickable, Eurobricks, and MocPages are great places to show your creation and link to the place to buy the instructions. I do also agree with @MAB, a free parts list is essential. -
I think that suspension is not needed because of the beam flex we have in our cars, but I do agree that bigger wheels would help with rolling resistance - take this (said in another topic) for example: Yes - that's why we are constantly looking for better surfaces to test on - but we can only use what we have...
-
Very interesting idea, I look forward to seeing more! I wonder what @nicjasno will think of this... I think he means that the competition for speed records only started because someone said that they had built the fastest. It should work, I have been able to measure small distances with mine.
-
I'm thinking of the pins without slot, but I wasn't aware that there were two types of pin with slot - and I haven't notice any difference between the pins I have...
-
I have finally been able to do some tests today! - and that's not the only reason why I'm happy... But first, here's what my new car looks like... It now includes @TechnicSummse's suggestion to use a single wheel on the front, and @Marxpek's idea to remove the wristband from the watch. And here it is: - 2:1 gearing, 615gm (590gm without the watch) Here is the results of the tests: Yes, 32.4km/h! But as you can see, I only did one test... look in the spoiler below to find out why!
-
Beams are slightly thinner, but not in the direction that the pin goes in.
-
I rarely use those old pins - because sometimes they are almost impossible to remove... Very interesting... but why did Lego make them like that?
-
I vote no, mainly because of these reasons: lubrication is non-Lego I never use lubrication on Lego parts (except inside motors and pneumatic parts) I haven't experienced wear on axles and beams on my car (yet) I actually noticed that - and was going to mention it - but I wasn't sure how to explain it. (so I glad you noticed it) Hope you find a way to save it...
-
It might just be that those colours happen to be more used/new in your collection... because I haven't noticed it myself.
-
I have come across this many times, such as a standard pin being replaced with a frictionless version - just because the B-model needed it. I highly doubt that... I think that is probably right, because when the set is being packed, each (different) part needs it's own bin and counter - so the fewer parts that are needed, the less machines that are being used to pack the set. I noticed that too, but I thought it was just me... (or rather my fingers )
-
I would agree with this, because I have come across many instances of it - far too many to ignore. I also think they limit the number of colors of identical parts used in a set.
-
You might want to check out @Philo's motor characteristics page. I'm not sure if it has what you are after, but it's worth a look...
-
gps data can show this, just look closely at your time-speed graphic and extrapolate the graph from where you crashed, dc motors generally show a near perfect half parabolic curve in this graph (on a straight run) What I meant is that I could never use the full length of track - because it kept crashing. (flipping) Yes, but it has about 2 studs of clearance. Yes I know, I will be putting some tape on the edges of the RC unit. (the buggy motors are protected by the wheels) Why didn't I think of that! But anyway, no tests today... (it's been raining - again!)
-
Because of the bad weather, I didn't do any tests today - so I did some brickstorming and redesigned my steering system again. I might have lost a good design, but that's probably for the better... because after I changed to smaller wheels, my ground clearance dropped to only about 1 stud - which could have been bad if I had hit a stone while testing! I have also now used @TechnicSummse's idea and changed to only 1 wheel on the front - which really cut down the weight! - it's now 635gm, or 590gm without the watch. Old steering: (from above) New steering: (from below)
-
You have forgotten two things: A- acceleration time & L- length of track With 2 motors you get 2T, but when you gear it up 2G, you only end up with 1T - which means the car will need 2A, which means 2L. So in other words, you need to double everything! But you do have a point, because it would be possible to get close to double the speed, you would just need something like 300m+ of track - and a way to keep the remote in range of the car!
-
I would recommend completely replacing the wire - if you can...
-
Oh, oops! I really don't know how I made that mistake!
-
Very interesting, but don't you think it should be called M3T3R? (or MET3R) I like how you made it without any mindstorms!
-
That's very fast for a LPE, but it isn't really competition - because it's completely different from using motors. Have you got steering, or is it just that I can't see it? I think you are going the wrong way... And my car is getting lighter every day! (currently 660gm, or 615gm without the watch)
-
I have had a few crashes with my car too, but nothing that bad has ever happened! I have also noticed that the center of gravity is very high - just like my very unstable car.
-
Help with identifying parts/sets!
mocbuild101 replied to WhiteFang's topic in General LEGO Discussion
If you want a plain torso, then the ID is 973 - see here: https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?id=1710#T=P But if you want a printed torso, you will have to search through 2127 different designs - see here: https://www.bricklink.com/browseList.asp?itemType=P&catString=150 -
Oops! I didn't do that with this car because the axle would have gone though more beams, but I have done that in my latest car - which I will be testing tomorrow.