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Attika

Eurobricks Citizen
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Everything posted by Attika

  1. I haven't been around for a while, yet I came back just in time to see something incredible. Such a density of perfection. Kudos
  2. Very interesting concept on every level. Drivetrain, suspension, both quite unique solutions (at least for my eyes) and the bodywork makes it pretty. I'd love to see it on video.
  3. Looks nice, drives nice, solid job again, congrats. I perfectly understand the way of your thinking. My first build with the new hubs was also a tatra with buggy motors. It is mini compare to mine at least. Besides, building a driven tatra suspension in this scale is more of a challenge than using solid axles. (I suppose)
  4. HOG means "hand of god". It is simply a steering output outside of the body to enhance playability, regardless that you use gear rack, or not. Nothing to do with each other as a matter of choice. Would be easier though, if you share the current state of the build. A technical question. Are you building it digitally only, or you have a hard copy (plastic) on your desk?
  5. I quite like the axle design. While the way they are connected to the chassis, raises the question: Is there anything to keep the axles centered? Beside that, I'd recommend to move the shock absorbers closer to the axle, preferably right above the half axles to avoid the tilting effect when the suspension is compressed. Also worth to connect them close, or top of the wheelhubs, so the structure of your axle not involved in carrying the weight.
  6. It's a unique idea, nicely executed and packed in the theme adorably. You've got no reason not to be proud about this project.
  7. Hi @Dimitry Very pleasant modification of the original. A bit more detailed description would definitely help the audience to appreciate the work behind it. I can see a number of studless beams replacing the original ones. The detailed exhaust system is surely a nice touch. Same on the engine. Noticed the HOG is imprisoned. Why did you keep it? Are there any changes under the hood? I mean the gearbox, suspension?
  8. Wow guys, you two should work together. Same idea, same editorial tools, even the title!......what are the chances... On the other hand, that box deserved the dedicated video for sure.
  9. It's the cheapest available on ebay. Here is a link: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4PC-96mm-Tyre-RC-1-10-Off-Road-Climbing-Car-Beach-Rock-Crawler-Tires-Wheels-Rim/233343043002?hash=item36545445ba:g:kngAAOSwWkFcj0Nl I suppose you should check out the relevant videos from @rm8 as he has probably sources with easier accessibility, even maybe local in Russia.
  10. It is well beyond fantastic. You!re on fire mate. A week since the Ford hit us! Don't stop!!!
  11. Looks pretty sick. For a couple of days I skipped it on youtube, as it looked on the thumbnail pic like a modified Arrma Infraction. I had to face the reality here and realise it is your work and made of lego.
  12. Very clever build, I like it a lot. Suspension is a piece of cake in itself.
  13. That's a very nice pickup mod there. Kudos
  14. As much as I could see the structure around, here is an idea: Still should be attached from below. The ground clearance grows by a stud on the middle section. Hope it fits.
  15. The 5:1 ratio comes before the differential. Replacing a diff can't effect this ratio, as it appears on the input axle of the differential . When we add the differential and bring it into the math, then the ratio on the output axles of the diff is (5x.071) 3.55:1. In the other case, if we replace the diff with the 12/20, and bring that in the math the ratio is (5x0.6) 3:1 on the output axle again. The ratio for the replacement is still valid: 3 / 3.55 =0.84, but logically, the differential replacement quotient (0.84) shouldn't be applied on a ratio (5:1) what doesn't include the differential. In other words the 4.2 is a theoretical number here. If you compare the motor rpm to any axles on the way down the drivetrain, non will give you this ratio. Sorry if I'm too fixated on this question, my ocd kicks in when being around numbers. Also just realised: "Good point, I will keep it." That makes the math around the replacement rather pointless.
  16. The 5:1 comes as 60/20 x 20/12. With differential (20/28) it goes down to 5 x 0.71 = 3.55:1. If 12/20 replaces the diff, then it gives 5 x 0.6 = 3:1 in my books. I guess the differential is handy if you want to keep the speed while cornering. I'd keep it. I can wait.... It won't fail, just comes to balance with the new XL motors and electronics. Talking of the wish/dream: The main barrier is the overall power difference between 4 PF-L on buwizz vs. 2 "over protected" C+XL's. Just getting my first steps with a borrowed buwizz and it makes a difference, I have to admit. So does the absence of it in this case. If the dream can be rearranged along with the gears, then it'll be ok.
  17. Looks pretty cool. Considering the size of the obstacles, the performance is still great.
  18. Still in my head In case if it "will fail", there's room to play with gear ratios. Had an idea, I'm sure you've been thinking of it too. Reducing the number of gears and keeping the 60/20, what goes 20/12 into the differential. That gives 5:1 before the diff. That's a reasonable step back from 8.33 and still above the 2.77 featured in the original A model. Sort of a"Plan B", I guess.
  19. Oh, come on! That would put me in a very grinchy position.
  20. I keep thinking about it, and this doesn't let me be still: In the original model the same electrics were geared up 2.77 before the diffs. (20/12x20/12). In your setup this number is 8.333 (before the diffs). That is -by the nature of the available ratios- exactly 3 times faster. So we expect to have third of the torque compare to the original. I did not buy the it, but I've had an occasion to play it aroud back in the late summer and it was rather modest on the torque department to begin with. Hence the gearswaps came to be popular. What do you think?
  21. That is an ambitious upgearing there, very peculiar concept. Looking forward to see it on your rug.
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