Jump to content

Didumos69

Eurobricks Dukes
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    3,045

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Everything posted by Didumos69

  1. Didumos69
    Performance in fast mode it still really good. I believe @mj002 uses 2 BuWizz's 1.0, you can read his report a few pages back in this thread. As.to wear, you should expect wear in all moving parts. The usual plastic dust. The turntables may also get slack in them, especially when you don't lubricate them and drive around with dust in the turntables. Aha, I get what you mean now. The whole idea of my front module was built around the idea of having realistic steering proportions and motors integrated in the suspension. This is why I used turntable-based wheel hubs. If I would have used a custom built U-joint all realistic proportions would have been gone.
  2. Didumos69
    Based on what others reported, I am 99% sure the blue gear has no other function than to brace the diff. Or it comes simply to give us more blue gears.
  3. Didumos69
    Don't know what you mean with integrated U-joint. The U-joints have already been reinforced with silicon bands, as was suggested by @nerdsforprez. This model pushes the possibilities of LEGO to the limited. If you drive with care in ludicrous mode, nothing will break. If you push it to the limit, for instance by going full power forward, full power backward, full power forward, etc., or by making crashes, you will eventually break a U-joint. If you want power in a big rugged model, this is part.of the game. I wouldn't be too scared. When you drive around with this thing you'll soon get a feeling for what you can do and what you shouldn't. I had to discover that too. In all the videos I shot, I didn't break any parts.
  4. Didumos69
    The blue clutch gears used to brace the diffs better and the geared down gearbox have me scared as well.
  5. Didumos69
    That's what I meant. Shifting is going to require a.lot of force with such a small moment of force.
  6. Didumos69
    From what I've seen, the paddle shifter has much in common with this. It uses a 24t gear with parts inserted into the 4 holes instead of a knob wheel. Apparently TLG also managed to make it so tight, that it doesn't need a 90-degree limiter like in this video. Hopefully the new orange selector pieces have been made such that there are short moments of zero engaged driving rings during shifts, instead of short moments of double engaged driving rings, which was the case in the Porsche.
  7. Didumos69
    I had the same feeling until I got too much involved myself. I even complained about so many new set threads a few weeks ago. It will pass.
  8. Didumos69
    And now you just made that 1803 replies!
  9. Didumos69
    I think so too. I broke 2 U-joints so far, but I didn't crack pins. When you drive forward, backward, forward, etc., the U-joints are really suffering. You have to check the front wheel hubs every once in a while, because when one comes loose, you can easily break a U-joint. But for me the biggest concern is dirt. After driving into a trench with water and driving on a dusty dirt road afterwards, the whole suspension got full of dirt and it completely ruined the fluid feel. I avoid dusty roads and water now.
  10. Didumos69
    Yes, that's too bad. But even if there was no center diff, this layout wouldn't work with an orange selector inbetween. It would either engage two driving rings or none.
  11. Didumos69
    Reasoning from the available images, the gearbox is an 8-speed gearbox. It is most likely that a DNR-gearbox is also present.
  12. Didumos69
    Or move the input axles up a layer: Btw, this layout is quite similar to what I did in my rugged supercar:
  13. Didumos69
    A nice flat layout with and a wide range of ratios (1:3, 5:9, 1:1, 5:3). Personally I don't like the use of clutch gears as non-idler gears (connecting the input axles), because of its sensitivity to friction, but it's not uncommon.
  14. Didumos69
    Yeah, there is even hype about the hype
  15. Didumos69
    So sad. New member, first post, stolen content. A real hero!
  16. Didumos69
    Don't.
  17. Didumos69
    So no HoG steering. What do you expect with 4WD? The CV-joints have a max angle of 20 degrees, and so does the steering.
  18. Didumos69
    That makes sense. Also after @ibessonov's remark on 'no gears sticking out at the bottom', I think you're right. Altogether, I mean with the included 24t slip gear, the extra blue 20 clutch gears around the diffs and the gearing down, I do fear a lot of friction in the entire drivetrain. Just for my understanding, if the gearbox and reverse are routed the way you think, is the gearbox then completely unengaged in reverse or is it one big idler-system. I'm somehow hoping for the first, because then you could at least play with this model in reverse without too much friction. Just to check if I understand you correctly: So the axle with the small 8t gear is used to directly route 'reverse' from DNR to the differentials and 'drive' is routed via the gearbox (and eventually the 8t gear) to that very same axle. I was somehow hoping the gearbox would be completely unengaged in reverse, so not even idle, but simply doing nothing, because then you could at least play with this model in reverse without too much friction. I think there are no paddle shifters, but only a HoG shifter that simply rotates the gear selector axles. The key is the HoG.
  19. Didumos69
    Wow, that's a really cool video. Great to see this model come to life in a completely different environment. Makes my day! Say your granpa, it's an honour to see my MOC in his hands! (Is the right front wheel alright?)
  20. Didumos69
    That 24t gear visible at one side of the gearbox is not centered and does not seem to mesh with the 8t gear. I get it now, thanks! That might indeed be outside TLG guidelines.
  21. Didumos69
    This is what I mean, just to be clear (I used your lxf btw). Going by the image of the rear axles there is a second black 5x7 frame 2 studs under the 5x7 frame holding the differential. That's where the reverse axle might be located. The bottom of the rear end seems to have all pinholes free for such an axle. Not that important, we will know soon.
  22. Didumos69
    Correct, but makes it easy to combine it with a 2-speed gearbox in an 8-speed gearbox. But it was mainly a thought expirement to use both new gearbox parts. Btw, I added an image explaining the sequence.
  23. Didumos69
    Great idea, I was waiting for this! Here we go... I tried making a compact sequential 4-speed gearbox layout and so far this is the most simple solution I could come up with. It's still not that easy, because to take full advantage of the new orange selector, the driving rings cannot be placed on opposite sides of a single gear selector. To take full advantage of the new 20t clutch gears, the gear ratio between the two driving rings needs to be closer to 1:1 than the 20:12 ratio made by the new clutch gears. In this case I used 16:20. Ratios are (in foreground to background order): 4:5, 1:1, 4:3, 5:3. Green is input Yellow is control Red is output
  24. Didumos69
    Not in the image, but the build in the image is not finished yet... But how is the reverse output routed from DNR to rear differential while bypassing the gearbox?
  25. Didumos69
    The tan one is, but the blue one could be used for routing reverse underneath the diff. I noticed, but I'm not convinced about all your assumptions.
×
×
  • Create New...