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anothergol

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Everything posted by anothergol

  1. anothergol
    That would make sense (for wheels rolling, although it can be "guessed", as it has been replied - but minifigs walking(??)) If you're talking about particle effects, I seriously doubt that they're gonna add that to the LDD, which has a philosophy of a (too much, IMHO) simple-to-use tool. In any case, I think we're all mainly waiting for the LDD's palette to be updated for this year's parts, and the fact that it already features more parts than LW supports is sadly not a good hint that it's gonna happen soon enough.
  2. anothergol
    It of course totally depends on the complexity of the model, I've rendered another 360 frames of a MOC (same youtube) in under 3 hours. But it's pretty consistent, so just time 1 frame, and multiplying by the amount of frames gives you a strong estimation. All cores seem to be used fully, so a quad core isn't luxury here. ah, but BlueRender is extremely fast, it will only take a few minutes for a still. I don't know if I should really compare it to LDDToPovRay as this one renders bevels and even Lego labels on studs, so it's normal that it takes a lot more time, but I actually prefer the less realistic but better-looking (even if it's just a matter of default settings) results of BlueRender, for like 0.1% of the time.
  3. anothergol
    nice, it kinda has a dinosaur shape when landed funny I've built a speeder around that same blue bike as well a few months ago, but I used it inverted:
  4. anothergol
    quite nice, especially that the patterns are brick-built
  5. anothergol
    If it was anounced that "you'll be able to port LDD builds into Lego Worlds", then it requires zero change in the LDD, only a loader in Lego Worlds. Or, of course, an exporter in LDD. In either case, nothing that requires a rewrite, and nothing that's OS-dependant, just a little loader/converter bit of code.
  6. anothergol
    funny :) yeah ideally the head's joint could be reworked not only to use an extender, but also to have it higher in-between the body & the head, so that it pivots around a higher point. I don't know where the joint really is in the "real" one - possibly right in the middle of the black rubber-like cover.
  7. anothergol
    Little request: when you render an anim, for each new frame BlueRender pops up the image window, which is pretty annoying when you're rendering 360 of them and it pops up 2 time a minute (like, right now while I'm typing). I couldn't find a way to prevent this, would be nice if the window wasn't popping up when the main app is minimized. I know the rendering uses all cores fully, but a PC is still perfectly usable while rendering, other than for this constant pop-up. Here's a preview of a 60FPS(!) rotation: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e5_JxqpkGMk ..and it still took less time (6 hours) to render than 1 single frame using LDDToPovRay.
  8. anothergol
    it's great to have an aging Tom Selleck as a minifig :)
  9. anothergol
    I've been watching some on youtube and they look pretty much the same to me. Bootlegs aren't necessarily bad - I have a huge collection of mostly anime stuff, which is generally hand-painted. I have atrocious bootlegs, bought on purpose for the fun of it & comparison, and I have bootlegs that are better than the originals (& the original sometimes sucks badly). ..but minifigs are machine-painted, & they can do it right for a low price. I'm not collecting minifigs but I hope it's not gonna devalue them, because they're what keep Bricklink parts cheap. But anyway, bootlegs are probably ok for kids (yeah.. possibly unhealthy paint.. but the dimwits who eat their Lego are also eating all the dirt from the floor anyway) - kids don't buy 10+ eur minifigs, they mostly get them from sets. Plus, in the case that Lego is more focusing on the minifigs than classic parts because of the (legal) competition on parts, a little competition on the minifigs may make them focus back on the parts? That wouldn't be bad.
  10. anothergol
    not only those display cases are overexpensive, you're also screwed if you wanna display Marge Simpson or minifigs with special accessories - so for the Simpsons I built my own and it ended up costing less per minifig (but isn't protected by glass, even though it's mostly made of glass frames)
  11. anothergol
    how can this even happen? Aren't those parts made in 1 mold?
  12. anothergol
    yeah, so beware with those, they aren't that strong, but maybe they will hold it.
  13. anothergol
    looks all nice! You're supposed to lower the shovels at the back until they reach the lower legs for the angle you picked, though. (btw as I wrote, I've already modified some parts, but they're not in my LXF project yet)
  14. anothergol
    I never met these 2, this is what I thought you were using: aren't yours old versions of these?
  15. anothergol
    Interesting, looking forward to the final result. You could try LDD-To-Povray, if Bluerender doesn't work for you. It gives excellent results, only it takes a lot more time to render. I'm not entirely sure that the size of the legs really varies along with blueprints, because when you play with the leg segments, the whole thing can really sit very low (like on Endor) or very high (Hoth). What parts did you use that aren't available in the LDD, btw? Also, beware of the old ratcheted joints, if that's what you used for the legs. They're kinda weak. You used bricks for the head so you'll have an even bigger weight problem than I had.
  16. anothergol
    Normally it won't fall over if you picked new ball-joint parts. The trick is to pose (with the head detached) the inter-leg bars right first, as those have the high-friction extenders, they won't move. Then pose the thighs right. Then connect the head, and place the whole thing on the ground and pivot it front/back until you align with the center of gravity. The friction in the feet joints hardly matters, as long as the center of gravity is well aligned, the whole weight on them will be vertical, and it's not gonna move unless you knock it. Well, mine hasn't fallen by itself yet. But yeah, posing it right takes a lot of time, definitely not something you wanna do all the time. The head's joint is probably the real problem, as it's gonna want to fall forwards if you wanna tilt it too far. There I could have used a high-friction extender, but it'd require a rework of the body. Can we see pictures?
  17. anothergol
    ..again, the "good" one is the straight one, on the right
  18. anothergol
    ah, but it wasn't supposed to be a push switch (but it's cool that it works too!), but a lever switch, pulled from the back. When locked in place, it'd look like this:
  19. anothergol
    but you haven't tried it first? it's not gonna help, both good & bad say 2-01 here :) anyway it was just for information about the difference, but those who got the wrong one will immediately notice it, it's not closing by over half a cm. I can imagine BL sellers willing to spot the wrong ones without assembling, the angle of the handle will tell.
  20. anothergol
    Yeah, the straight one is the working one.
  21. anothergol
    For those who are interested, here's the difference between the good & the bad canopy for Poe's X-Wing, as Lego just mailed me the working one. I was suspecting the problem was that the glass wasn't cut short enough, but no, it's clearly the handle that's going downwards, for the wrong one. Weird.
  22. anothergol
    I wouldn't even call those statues "Lego MOCs", because the only creativity in there is the original model/drawing, the adaptation to Lego is all automatic (I'm pretty sure it IS computer-assisted and automatic, btw), there is as much creativity as in turning a photo into pixels. I have very little respect for Legoland statues (if they were using slopes or special parts for more detail, that would be a different story) but hey, they serve a different purpose. But glueing something that already stands on its own, why not. While I like things solid, to me the only rule is "it has to stand up for the picture", assuming that the connections are "legal". However, in that case of something that can stand alone but is risky, I'd rather suggest a display stand/aid. All I'm saying is, there are probably not more than 2 categories for most of us here, it's either pure or it's not. It's not a rule to obey, it's just something that affects our appreciation of a MOC. (and for anyone who's not into Lego at all, it's probably all in 1 "made with Lego" category)
  23. anothergol
    The way I see it is like this: it puts you in another category. A comparison would be a game's speedrun. It can be performed normally, or tool-assisted. Both are entertaining, but you expect more from a tool-assisted one. So the thing is: as long as it's "tool-assisted", it doesn't really matter how much tool-assisted it is, or what emulator/techniques were used - a tool-assisted speedrun has to be the best speedrun possible, using any existing tool. Which is why I'm saying, as soon as you enter the "MOC using illegal techniques", it doesn't really matter whether you've glued or cut one part, or all of them, you're kinda in that category. And it's not a bad category, it has produced amazing work, only anything in that category has to be a lot better than something in the "pure" category. So that's what we were saying, it's a pity to enter that category for just a few glued parts and 1 cut part - better fully be in that category and cut/glue everything that needs to be, IMHO. How much "unpure" is the MOC may make a difference for the author, but for the viewer, it's pretty much either in the pure category or the other category. So, for ex, if you're already in the other category, that "blue" part that's too blue, you could paint it - it won't really matter. And really, there are gorgeous painted MOCs out there, so it's not really to diss that "altered" category.
  24. anothergol
    What's with a lot of parts having sprue mark in the front, btw? How could someone engineer that? The seat is probably the best example - does it really reduce costs make it injected by the top? I don't really get it.
  25. anothergol
    Little trick I found out randomly, and it's quite possible that the light brick was designed for this, I have no idea. So I was looking for a way to switch on a light brick on a display base, and was hoping that a friction pin would be enough to keep it pressed. But it turned out that it really acts as a very effective "click" switch - you hear a click as you switch it, and it stays firmly in place. (green is your light brick, switch at the bottom obviously)
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