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anothergol

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Everything posted by anothergol

  1. anothergol
    Looking really cool. Is it for strength reasons that you didn't go for more flat tiles? They're generally cheaper than the 4x6 you used, I believe.
  2. anothergol
    maybe you don't maintain a collecting craze if everything is too easy to collect
  3. anothergol
    I think this works even better, as the snowspeeder isn't that low-profile afterall
  4. anothergol
    It appears to exist in tan, though, and if you went for a global grey/tan scheme for a battle-worn look, it could work. In fact, I think it would be less distracting than the blue you went for on the panels, which stands out too much IMHO. You could also use white & pretend it's snow :)
  5. anothergol
    that's one cool landing pad. Have you tried it in practice yet?
  6. anothergol
    while that need to care for the orientation would normally still ban it according to Lego's rules, even in that orientation, there's still a tiny collision. Undetected in the LDD, but if the shape is correct, it's there. I'm sure it does work in practice, though, because the clip seems more relax than a 1x1 tile+clip (which doesn't have that cut in the middle).
  7. anothergol
    Is this a designing mistake, or did Lego redesign the clip+plate part? And I'm not talking about "wrong, but the plastic will bend to accomodate". The first time I tried something like this, it was on a normal 1x1 tile+clip, while the LDD hadn't detected the collision. The clip told me that it was wrong when it started to "get white about to break", as the hilt wouldn't go through fully. Sure, the plate+clip is designed slightly differently, maybe that one won't break, but IMHO it's still wrong for Lego to do that. And it's not even the clip's fault, it's the hilt that's badly designed and is often the sources of troubles that the LDD doesn't detect (it does detect this one though).
  8. anothergol
    Well, Japanese stuff is made in China anyway, but what I meant is that the japanese are usually respectful of copyrights, whereas the Chinese do anything they want.
  9. anothergol
    For a new reference btw, I've just assembled a Bandai AT-ST snap-kit. It's amazingly detailed, and probably the best AT-ST one can buy. It taught me about details I hadn't noticed. I strongly advise it, it's really great. Ultraboring to cut pieces, but enjoyable to build (& looks cool without paint, it's nearly Lego LBG). While Bandai hasn't released an AT-AT (yet), it at least gives the scale of the AT-ST. It's 1/48, and the height of the back of the head would be 1.9m. It has a very detailed interior, & the pilots, so I think it's scaled pretty accurately. Meaning that on this pic, the Hoth one (the kit is the Endor one, no curve at the top, small side gun dishes), it would be 10 to 11m tall:
  10. anothergol
    ah no, I like all mechs & robots in general. Just like I own a lifesize T800 endoskeleton while not being a Terminator fan. I'm way more a Blade Runner guy, if I had to pick a movie - only I haven't covered a Spinner in Lego yet because I couldn't do justice to it, some have already done better than I could ever do. Same thing for Robocop, I don't like the movie(s), but I do like ED209, and my attempts at making a Lego version have failed. I tolerate the first SW movies, haven't seen the new one, and didn't like the last 3. But the AT-AT & AT-ST's are pretty nice walkers. The AT-AP.. not so much IMHO. And again, my problem with its Lego incarnation is the same as with the AT-DP, it's designed as a strong toy, thus the legs are thick, unposable and designed to be tossed around by children. I'd probably love it if I was 10, though. I collect some Hot Toys as well, because they're genuine pieces of art. Generally, I haven't seen the movies they were licensed from, or didn't care about them (especially X-men). But it's not like I have a choice, it's all Hot Toys makes, licenses. IMHO if it looks good, I buy it. As for Lego, if Lego still had a "space" theme, I'd buy it. But today's only space theme is SW, so that's what I buy. As for the signature, SW stuff brings a lot more attention, most of my other MOCs are original but I well understand that no one would click on that.
  11. anothergol
    What's weird is that it looks japanese. Chinese would have been normal, but the japanese aren't known for bootlegs. But the poorly drawn smurf also gives it away. It looks like chinese crap with japanese text(?)
  12. anothergol
    That's what I thought as well, and I bought one of those. It was a real piece of crap that wouldn't stand by itself, and was actually doing a poor job. I get it that it's supposed to diffuse light better & soften shadows, but it wasn't even doing that properly. I then ditched it and got a large piece of white paper instead, and that worked much better for me. The camera also helps, if the lights aren't enough. I use a Lumix LX100 and I'm really happy with the quality (not with the OS, though). I'm using daylight (under a roof window) with 2 cheap, yellow lamps because that's all I found. While I wouldn't advise that (daylight is too variable and stronger & whiter lamps would be better), there's nothing Photoshop won't fix. It's just more time spent in it. Color correction & sharpening do a lot, even though I'm sure that the right setup will produce the right image out of the box, that's more time spared for the pro's who do that all day. Oh and I'd avoid fabric backgrounds, even with good ironing they will suck. Good old rigid paper, that works well.
  13. anothergol
    Cool, so that makes 2 new ball-joint pieces this year (or 3 with the stud shooter variant). All we're missing is a technic pin-to-female cup, now. That would make a pretty cool piece, and would counter the problem that mixel joints aren't so multi-directional, through the added rotation of the pin.
  14. anothergol
    nice, that's a pretty cool Jabba the hat
  15. anothergol
    pretty well done
  16. anothergol
    I'm not a fan of Star Wars, I get SW Lego sets because, well, that's Lego's only theme for spaceships. There are those sets that I wouldn't touch, like the AT-AT, the M. Falcon, the Imperial Shuttle. And then there's those I will slowly cannibalize for pieces, and the AT-AP was one of them. I think it didn't look good at all, and is designed purely as a toy with emphasis on strength instead of posability.
  17. anothergol
    Cartman would have loved those sea.. people
  18. anothergol
    If I had Ninjago stuff, I'd sell it asap. It's not the kind of thing of a value that rises progressively, like Star Wars or modulars. My prediction would be: in 3 years, no one will want it, and you'll have to wait 30 years for the 40's to remember they had Ninjago & wanna buy it for nostalgic reasons. & as said above, Ninjago right now will probably sell to a kid, who won't care about the box.
  19. anothergol
    The arrow for the new crossbow, like in Nexo Knights, anyone knows if it's a proper towball, fitting a mixel joint with friction? That would make it a nice piece, maybe not in the right material (trans colors aren't the same plastic), but it should be quite useful. Edit: ah, looks like Lego has already produced what I'm looking for, in the past: http://bricker.info/parts/3813/
  20. anothergol
    But how is it helping, if you connect 2 things for them to hold together and the spring is pushing them away? Ah, I assume there's a blocker so the plate is pushed by the spring & blocked by a brick on the other side. Makes sense. (there's also that rubber double axle connector btw, but it doesn't do miracles)
  21. anothergol
    Where did you use pistons?
  22. anothergol
    ah.. but that looks like something to report to the national organization against brick abuse with ball joints that would work, though, but you'd then need to connect at least 2, always tricky
  23. anothergol
    Little WIP while waiting for the missing parts I've put a light brick inside, because why not. There was room for the pull-back motor that Lego uses for hooks in choppers, and it would have made sense here (nanofig climbing using grappling hook), but the drum part needed for the rope is a little too big to fit. Plus it would probably have moved upwards too fast, & there is certainly no room for gears.
  24. anothergol
    But you have attached the side panels to the main one, you can only hinge it in 1 direction. The side plates go inside more than the middle one: I think all 3 should simply not be attached together, but instead be attached to the body using ball joint(s). It's always tricky to have 2 ball joints meet somewhere, but even 1 would work if it's at the top and you let the plate fall down naturally, using guiders/blockers. Sure, the middle plate also has a thin slope going towars the middle plates, and that would then be impossible to combine both. But IMHO that angle difference matters more, because of the shadows it casts.
  25. anothergol
    if you attach it to the side plates, how?
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