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Everything posted by Schneeds
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Post your general LEGO Star Wars questions here
Schneeds replied to XimenaPaulina's topic in LEGO Star Wars
Isn't the 10188 Death Star the best selling lego set ever? I can't imagine they'd ever retire it as long as it continues to sell well. -
I still have to build his AT-ST. A fantastic model as well. Now if only he would design an AT-AT... :)
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No, I was just remembering wrong. It doesn't connect, it just fits flush against the block. You just have to keep working the hose until you get it in a fairly uniform circle so that the spars fit evenly against the brick. He uses a lot of unorthodox building techniques to make that masterpiece ;)
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The white domes attach from the friction of the rubber; you wrap enough rubber band around the opposing grill pieces that the white dome just barely fits over it and holds snugly. For the engine hose, pre-shape the hose by wraping it around a circular object of appropriate size. That reduces the tension considerably, and then make sure you're joining the two ends of the hose in the thick O-ring, and not the clip. The ring is wider and will hold the hose better. The bars inside the engine hose are attached if you build it correctly, make sure to check the pictures closely. For keeping the engines solidly on, I used 3 of these http://www.bricklink.com/catalogItem.asp?P=2460 on each side since they fit by default. This adds considerable strength to the engine connection points. Lastly, if you look at the pictures on my brick shelf you will notice the modified droid. I reduced the droid enclosure to a 2x2 space so that I could bolster the strength of the neck connection. All in all, my version of his Y-wing is very stable. Hope this helps.
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Like Kuat said, you can't even tell it was made from 75054. Looks great.
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You can see a bit of it in my brickshelf picture. I moved the display leg forward to the middle of the docking bay so that it centered over where the beams meet. This creates better weight leverage, and there's already space for it so it's very easy. After that, I made bunch of the clamps that the original design uses to hold the technic structure together. I don't remember how many exactly, but it was probably around 20. Two in the back by the engines, two on the sides, two on the internal middle cross spine, and the rest on the main middle support spine. I placed them across wherever two beams met. Then lastly I just added some plate to the top and bottom of the main the main spine. All basic parts, and the colors don't really matter. This takes away any ability for the beams to flex away from each other, and should prevent warping in the long term.
- 65 replies
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Keep in mind the weight of the plates is enough that it actually warps the 1x16 technic beams over time without reinforcement/modding. It's a very heavy set.
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My god Bob, that interior is amazing. Have you ever thought of making a Mon Calamari cruiser? It would almost certainly be a spectacular masterpiece.
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How are you attaching it? The plates are pretty heavy, and the original design barely holds them on.
- 65 replies
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What kind of magnet holder did you buy? I'm not aware of any mod using different parts that would work with the ISD... that's why no one bricklinks it.
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I really like that Hound's Tooth and IG200. Both ships are a pretty difficult shape to achieve, with not a lot of source material available, but you did so at a nice scale. Excellent job!
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BrickLinking (another) 10179 UCS Millennium Falcon
Schneeds replied to Lobot's topic in LEGO Star Wars
Use the old gray levers. It will save you a fortune and it still looks good. Personally, I would skip using the boat masts entirely and use a mod like ScottishDave's or the one I referenced and used in the previous post. You could also go with a brick-built radar dish like mine or Dave's. I think they look great and it's cool to avoid using stickers!- 290 replies
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- 10179 UCS Bricklink
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I think it looks great, my only problem with it is the size. You can build a fantastic looking, minifig scale ship for all the Star Wars fighters for around a thousand pieces, give or take a few hundred. Look at Brickwright's Y-wing, Eric W's Vader's tie, Jerac's A-wing, the various snowspeeder mocs... If you've collected all the other UCS fighters, I think it's a great addition to those, but if you perfer minifig scale there's better moc options out there. I agree the price is on the high side. Still great looking though.
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[MOC] UCS Nebulon B - Medical Frigate 'Redemption'
Schneeds replied to mortesv's topic in LEGO Star Wars
It would be cool if Lego had a Lego Ideas for Instructions service. They could take all these hugely popular large sets that reach 10,000 votes but aren't viable as an official set, and make purchasable instructions for them. The original designer just provides the LDD file and once they finish it, people could just order it online. Be great for Mortesv's Nebulon. -
[MOC] UCS Nebulon B - Medical Frigate 'Redemption'
Schneeds replied to mortesv's topic in LEGO Star Wars
I would buy instructions in a heartbeat. Been huge fan of this moc for some time. I think it's up there with Cavegod's ATAT. -
I agree with the space shuttle part. The lego set seems a bit narrower than depicted on the show, making it even more shuttle-like.
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I actually modded the entire bridge section in the spirit of Jerac's masterpiece, so it has a complete conversion to an Imperial II-class star destroyer. I'll get some pictures up at some point.
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BrickLinking (another) 10179 UCS Millennium Falcon
Schneeds replied to Lobot's topic in LEGO Star Wars
The original model didn't actually have anything where the thrusters are, they just added blue light. So it's fairly open to interpretation on what is accurate ;) http://www.starshipmodeler.com/starwars/mf_btm.jpg However it does look like the model in Episode 7 will have vertical grill slots, making it inline with the above mod.- 290 replies
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- 10179 UCS Bricklink
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BrickLinking (another) 10179 UCS Millennium Falcon
Schneeds replied to Lobot's topic in LEGO Star Wars
I found you can save a fair amount reversing the dark bluish gray/light bluish gray color combinations of the lift arms and hinges. They aren't visible from the outside and it wouldn't be noticeable anyway. Also, ordering the rigid 3mm hoses and dark bluish gray phones from Lego Bricks & Pieces will save you a small fortune. Finally, if you haven't seen it, as an alternative to the boat mast there's this: http://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=81759 I used it and it looks great. I think better than the original actually.- 290 replies
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- 10179 UCS Bricklink
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Then the question now becomes will one pin be strong enough! Hopefully.
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I haven't seen the instructions, but won't two extra plates worth of thickness throw off the fit off the hull?
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If that works it's going to put this in play for a lot of people. I would be sorely tempted.
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I like the original as well, even it if isn't as model accurate. It just looks great ;) Otherwise option 2 above is the way to go.
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Nice. I'll have to do this. That side panel instability was the only let down in an otherwise very stable build.
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The more I look at this, the more I love it. Lego would be crazy not to use this; an iconic model from A New Hope? They don't even have to make any changes. The piece count, everything, is just perfect.
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