nerdsforprez

I understand that I may be the minority here, but just a quick observation after watching the auto bild youtube vid. is that there looks like there is quite a bit of information about the actual car, perhaps its history and even antecedents (side of box, inside). I love this. I think it is really cool. Even if ai pay a little more for this. I understand that one can just google all this information, but I think it is nice to just have right there in front of you. Many techy, or engineering fols might even have all this information memorized, but I think the majority of us do not, so to have it there at our fingertips is really really nice. I bought a very large, expensive die cast model of liebherr 11200 9.1 mobile crane last year and did a review of it. Although the crane was packaged immaculately, I made one observation in my review, and that was I really wished NZG (maker of the model) would have included some information of the crane. There essentially was none. and such information would have been incredibly important because all the different configurations of the crane resembled those of the real crane. In fact, to learn the configurations I actually had to obtain a copy of the owner's manual FROM THE REAL CRANE. I really wished some information of the crane would have been included. I even, in my review, used the AROCS as an example. Even though there is not much, even the ARCOS has a little information on the box of the real thing. I am really really glad that for the Porsche there is a bunch of information.

I love this thread. Been looking at it all morning. I certainly have some bad MOCs/MODs, but most of the early stuff I did was modifications to sets rather than actual MOCs, so hopefully nothing too bad. I do remember one project in particular where I learned the painful lesson of Lego cost. I set out to build a replica of the Willis Tower (Chicago, US) and I wanted the scaling to be exact. To the individual towers. I completed the internal structure, what would be like the steel structure in a real building, and painfully learned that the cost was not worth it to me to complete the whole thing. I had tons of fun, got the scaling down perfect, but learned that I almost had to do an expense report from then on out before I began a project so I would not get part way done and realize I didn't want to spend the $$ completing it.

So this little detour, IMO, is completely pertinent to the set. Jim... the shipping is a great point. I did not think about that. If, as many have speculated, much of the price of the set is wrapped up in the "premium" packaging, I am kinda fearful for TLG in that they cannot control the shipping. They can package all they want, and do premium packaging etc... but what happens if it ships and is damaged? They better be ready to give out a lot of discounts if packages arrive damaged. I don't know if this has been your experience Jim, but I received a 42025 that the box was damaged just like your AROCS. I took a pic, sent it to customer service, and they discounted an equally priced set 20% off! That was a huge savings. Way above and beyond what I really even needed. I was very happy. But if similar-like things happen with the Porsche, I can't see this being worth it for TLG. Regular packaging.... if it is damaged, like Jim's Arocs, (unless you are a collector) most people will not care as long as the actual contents are not damaged. BUT.... if I am paying for the premium packaging, and it comes damaged. You bet they will be receiving a call from me......

In all honesty though... are we asking because they will all be gone that fast or just because we want it that fast. My question is do people think that this will go so fast that I have to stay up til midnight refreshing my page so i actually get one of these models before the "temp. out of stock" lights up the page.....

Looks like someone beat me to it. Glad everyone got their instructions :)

So creative. Thanks for sharing.

To those wanting the file..... It is huge and I can't do it via normal email. Perhaps with drive. I will experiment this evening when I get home.

I do. Send me an email pm and I can send them to you.

I mentioned this earlier in the post. Pretty much just a few seconds at high power. Obviously it will drag on with little psi once the majority of the air is out. Essentially, this equated to the vehicle covering approximately 110 ft on the one liter. 60 psi it covered more.So, really, for any other vehicle I don't think this set up would really work. But...... I have used larger air tanks for my unimog (below in signature block). Portable, very lightweight. Easy to make. For a truck or car, I think the set-up I used with my unimog would work much better. I got quite a bit of air out of that tank. Sure..... you have to tote it around.... but unless you are building an absolutely huge car/truck, an on-board air supply really is not feasible. For this vehicle on-board did work b/c I only needed a short burst of air.......

Okay.... so I couldn't help but give it a go without all the bodywork. I should have done like a picture in picture comparison but I lack the video software for that. Anyways, here is the vehicle stripped of anything that resembled bodywork. Decreased weight nearly 300 grams. So the model was just under 700 grams. Pretty light. I could then keep with the 1.6:1 gearing. Seems like it goes pretty fast..... faster than the other version. Which it should. Nearly 30% lighter.

Wonderful post. Thanks for sharing. Always a fan of wonderfully built construction equipment.

Thanks for the link Efferman. Some cool links. There are also some cool ones on the Pentax Supercar thread http://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=131146

At face value this might seem like a distraction, but due to some of the traffic on this thread I think it entirely pertinent. @emmi - while I truly admire your enthusiasm for this set lemme just put out there..... and generally to all those itching for this set they can hardly stand it...... i will just put out there a personal experience. When 42009 was announced (I am relatively new from my own dark ages) I thought Sept (the release date, or close to it) would never come. I obsessed and checked for updates all the time. When the Arocs was announced.... same thing. I have come to discover though..... especially as of late, there will always be come really cool models coming on the horizon. After the Porsche, perhaps a Ferrari, then a..... There will always be a new, big, shiny flagship on the way. If we get into the habit of itching for whatever the future holds then even when the Porsche comes out it will not be fully enjoyed because anticipation of what is next will over-ride it. Focus on what we have now, enjoy it, and whatever the future has it will come soon enough. I, as well, am excited for the Porsche, but have learned to fully enjoy the other models I lusted after so much..... thus decreasing my angst for any new models.

Wonderful build. Tires are hard to get right given the limited sizes......but I was wondering.......Would it be possible to get a video?

It also appears to be 11L in width....... providing yet more evidence that it is 11954

Your questions are kinda two-fold and don't seem to have much to do with one another. 550 might be a fair price, but that may have little to do for you as to whether it is worth it for you. You will get a lot of opinions about your second question. Be sure you recognize the difference between that and your first question. If you are new, or just returning from a dark ago to Technic, you may want to stick with 42030 and 43. They will be easier, but still a challenge, and will give you some good experience and insight into techniques that are commonly used. In addition, if you have been away or new, it will help orient you to some new pieces. I have not build the GMK 64000 crane, but i have followed the thread closely and build my own version of a large crane (before GMK came out). GMK crane is much more complex and the instructions are not as straight-forward as regular Lego instructions. Either way...... you will have a blast and cannot go wrong. Good Luck!

You know..... people are making all types of things possible nowadays. Never thought I would see the old curves of this beauty replicated in Technic.... but here they are. Great joB!

I don't know how it sold when it initially came out, but later on it sold well.....8288. I would love to see another 8288-like set, a large crawler crane. Bigger, badder, than 8288, 3-4,000 pieces, not 1/2 liftarms, etc for the boom and stuff.

Thanks everyone. Little different project. Tons of fun. Actually it began as a project for my daughters science fair..... But I took out a little further than that .....

Yes, it did. In fact, if you watch the video, in one of the frames you will see my my daughter out in the street (we make sure there are no cars, and it is a very safe, residential, street) anxiously awaiting to catch it. In fact, when the car peeled out it was the first time we had tried it at 60 PSI, and she gave a little "oh shoot!" because she was out of position that was caught in the audio pick up Pretty amazing that it would cover roughly 110 feet on only 1 liter of air (although once out of the garage, there is a very slight decline to the driveway). Probably...perhaps I should try it. The motor alone was 260ish grams. Whole model - 989 ish. Tires probably 50 a piece, and I would have to keep most of the frame and obviously the drive line. So I probably could not take much away, but I estimate all the flex cables, spoiler, scoop, and all other nonsense could be removed and save me perhaps 200-300 grams. Perhaps the most significant thing is that I could likely change the drive train to 1:1 with a 2-300 gram weight reduction.

Here is my latest creation. I won't post all the details, please visit http://mocpages.com/moc.php/428357 in terms of how it works, details, etc. Briefly, I sought to create a funnycar that would propel itself. Because it would be propelling itself, it would have to be fairly large (enough air for short burst of speed), but at the same time light. limiting the coefficient of drag would also be very important. Thus the ungainly looks of the thing. But..... funnycars aren't built for looks, rather for acceleration... right? Kinda inspired by 42050....but I wanted to create something with an engine sound, fast, and help true to the funnycar name. The drivetrain was incredibly simple but effective. Neutral… and one forward drive gear. This is the gear set-up for most drag racers. This can get complex though, with many sophisticated models allowing a type of clutch that limits slip and only allows a certain amount of torque to be applied at different RPM levels. But for all intents and purposes, for this model, all I wanted was neutral and drive. This certainly tested Lego gears, changeover catch, and drive rings. But incredibly, there was no skipping. This was quite amazing given the amount of torque that was applied to the drive train. This is similar to real drag racers. I remember a documentary I watched a while ago stating that the gears in a real drag racer only last 2-3 races before needing replacement because of the tremendous torque, heat, and stress applied. The goal of the drive train was to have a neutral gear so that the engine (which is from lpepower.com, Thanks Alex! I love this engine!) could first rev up. Although the engine is quite powerful in and of itself, the fact that it was already running at approximately 1500 RPMs before the gears engaged really resulted in the car’s speed. The whole set-up looked like what is below. To explain the picture you have the arrows pointing in opposite directions representing the tendency of the drive ring to want to pop out of place because it was trying to engage a set of gears where moving at different speeds (well, one was moving and the other was stationary) and the rubber bands acting against it. Initially, when the engine was started I had an axle placed in the hole where the left arrow is to hold it in place. Placing the axle here would stretch the bands back and disengage the drive. So I would first start the engine, let it rev to approximately 1500 RPMs, put the axle, the bands would pull the catch, engage the drive ring into the receiving gear and….. we were off! The “fuel” that was used was simply air. The air tank was the only thing in this model that was not 100% Lego. All else was. The setup was something that I had built before, just on a smaller scale (one liter bottle). Details can be found here but here are some photos. The 1 liter bottle I used I obviously blacked with spray paint. Simply cut out the nozzle from a bike tube and used very strong epoxy-type glue to seal it all. Worked great. Thanks for taking a look. Hope you enjoyed!

Having purchased an engine from you before, I love what you do and do follow your material from time to time. Glad to see some progress on this cool project.

Thank you for this reference.....i have not seen it before. I guess it would be important to point out though.... That illegal is not synonymous with nonfunctional..... They're were several connections that looked functional, but considered illegal......

I see your crawler town and raise you this thread: http://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=56020 but perhaps the king of all large Technic builds is this guy here: texbrick.com 17 Ft. truss bridge..... ring crane several meters high, and many more....... Google: large lego ring crane for other giants....

Sorry if this has been stated before...... But..... Do we have a final weight for the whole box/set? I know there were estimates a while back........ But I'm talking about actual weight...... Not guesses.