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Tommy Styrvoky

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Everything posted by Tommy Styrvoky

  1. Nice build of a model T, there's so many different bodies and modifications you could do to this chassis.
  2. I "had" quite a few Star Wars sets, but they eventually turned into my armored vehicles.I did purchase quite a few hundred grey tiles off of Bricklink. Here's an example of one of my first models, without many tiles.
  3. Lego AEC MK. III Armored car (RC) by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr I added the complex sidewalls of the vehicle, they are slightly too large, but the whole vehicle is too wide because of the internal components. Lego AEC MK. III Armored car (RC) by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr I should be finished with the model sometime next week.
  4. Awesome model, its amazing to see it actually function like the real vehicle.
  5. I thought I may post a small update during Thanksgiving, I have begun shaping the frontal armor around the drivers hatch. Lego AEC MK. III Armored car (RC) by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr
  6. what sort of an arrangement of parts will you be adhering together for an airtight seal ?
  7. Im guessing the first red lift arm from the left is a gate that controls the flow. the 2nd one in is used to lift the balls up and out. The motor drives a 3:1 ratio, that axle has a 4 stud long beam that has a 9 stud long beam that opens up the first " control gate", there is another lift arm (uncertain of lengths 7?) that actuates a 6x1/2 beam for the lifting mechanism.
  8. Epoxy is strong, but it's prone to flexing and breaking. Maybe use CA glue (superglue or use Gorilla superglue) if you use something that briefly melts the plastic, then hardens to form a solid part. Kind of like the 3502x cement here http://www.testors.c...dhesive/cement/ I use it on some of my 1/35 models, it works well and is very strong if bonded with the right amount of glue. If too much is applied, it will eat away at the plastic. It's not intended for filling spaces, only for direct contact fits. It usually sets up in 6 hours.
  9. Lego AEC MK III Armored car (RC) by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr Another progress update, the model has received the turret ring and drive motor for it.
  10. Yeah go as robust as possible, use double bevel gears and knob gears for driving the axles, spur gears are prone to chewing teeth and breaking in half.
  11. I would suggest using several XL motors, at least 2-4 or use L motors for each axle.
  12. I don't have the money for that and I plan to finish this model up sometime next week, then I will be building another tank before christmas...
  13. Interesting project, hopefully it will eventually take to the skies. Are you planning to create a skin for the fuselage and wings ?
  14. Lego AEC MK. III Armored car (RC) by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr Some work on the body, there was some minor changes to the steering mechanism to make it fit into the sides of the vehicle,more clearance was added to the frontal suspension, so it has a greater travel. Next part to be added will be the turret ring and turret, Lego AEC MK. III Armored car (RC) by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr
  15. Lego AEC MK. III armored car (RC) by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr I finally have some more progress after this past week, I had several tests in classes and a 4000 word paper to type. The frontal shocks were removed and remounted and fenders were added. I'm not exactly sure how I will be mounting the battery box though I'm thinking under the turret.
  16. That ground clearance though... it's practically unstoppable , This would be an awesome model. I would like to see a variant with the rear snow tracks.
  17. Same, I gave most of my bionicles to one of my friends that likes using them. Though the ball joints are useful for complex angles.
  18. I wonder if a motor could be waterproofed if there was a seal around the output and if the casing of the motor was sealed shut.
  19. It appears to be made up of recognizable parts, but I can't tell where one part starts and another ends. There were some parts in the movie that weren't actual lego parts (56z gear on wildstyle's bike.)
  20. The Tetrix gears are attached by a small locking screw, so they aren't comparable with lego standard axles. If you are applying so much torque on a gear line that lego gears can't handle, then even if power could be driven through the Tetrix gears it would be impossible to drive or actuate anything that uses standard axles, unless the axle would be affixed to a Tetrix gear.
  21. I find that Youtube and Flickr are my most active (feedback, likes, followers) Mocpages is somewhat active, though it receives feedback only for the first day or so. I think the site used to be more active, though people may just be getting lazier and not replying or liking stuff. I wish that the site was updated, there is a lot of things that could be done for improvement. (using a similar system to add photos to groups like on Flickr.) I find Rebrickable is useful for determining if you have enough of a part when building something. It is a little bit of a hastle to remember what sets you own but it pays off to know quantities of parts. I do like with the site how you can see what parts are required to build models and what percent of the parts you have.
  22. Looks like an interesting setup, hopefully it doesn't designate, causing a barrage of lego bricks to slam into unsuspecting cars behind you... Good luck, I hope it holds up and works properly.
  23. Are the cut away images just 2 images of the same model, one of the internals overlaid a image of the vehicle?
  24. It will be interesting to see if the model will be able to withstand flight, since the wings are only structurally supported by one layer of technic beams. if it doesn't fly, it will still be cool to see it taxi.
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