1963maniac

He shows what the problem is and how to fix the chain smoothness issue.

Go to 2:00 minute mark

Check this out: https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-88177/1963maniac/roller-coaster-10261-modifications/#details. Also

Using this idea, could you mount the LA higher on the back of the tractor and then use a universal joint to spin it? What I mean is the LA is mounted at a completely different angle; the brown axle end is higher than the opposite end.

I submitted catalog change requests for both the sheep and the pneumatic part last week. Today I was reading Jared's review on Rebrickable of set # 42128 and he has a third part number for the pneumatic part as 19476. Can you believe it. Such a new part has three numbers, one only known by BL and two only known by TLG! I like to use BL's wanted list for ordering parts. I try to buy new parts from TLG as many as possible to keep shipping cost low, then get the rest from BL sellers. I also have a Bricks and Minifigs store that I use as much as possible. I don't buy many sets anymore because my collection is huge and over 55+ years. Yes, I confess, I am a LEGO maniac.

Thank to all of you for your responses. To clarify, I found many parts at TLG whose part number is not in Bricklink's catalog. I always start with Bricklink to find part numbers before ordering from anybody. I have found many part numbers there that are unknown to TLG. These parts were all definitely available from TLG. Ordering from TLG is more work to find the part and part number when it doesn't match Bricklink. Why can't BL supply these unknown part numbers since they are owned by TLG? BL seems is the main catalog library for the whole LEGO world! Don't we need it to be complete?! I find unknown part numbers when searching through the set inventory at TLG's replacement parts order page. The set number I usually get from Bricklink's part catalog. If you do this using BL's set inventory, you won't get the unknown part number. Two examples: BL# 74188 -Sheep ...TLG# 78214 and BL# 21828 -pneumatic cylinder...TLG# 26647. TLG does not recognize BL's numbers and BL does not recognize TLG's numbers. These are newer parts. Does Bricklink really not know these part numbers from TLG?

Why aren't part numbers (element design numbers) the same across all of the Lego world. Why can't we have one part number per part? I would just like to have things as simple as possible. BTW I'm not knocking Bricklink, I use it a lot. It is my main Lego encyclopedia, I cannot do Lego without it!! I used a Bricklink (btw owned by Lego) part number to order from Lego replacement parts that Lego itself did not recognize!! This has happened to me on several occasions. Recently, I didn't take "No results" for an answer. I found a different part number for it from Lego. It was available under a different part number from Lego. I have done catalog change requests for them today on Bricklink. Bricklink sometimes has alternate part numbers which usually work on Lego replacements, but not always. And, I find these alternate part numbers are usually more recent part numbers. Sometimes the TLG part number is for elements that are made only in transparent colors. This kind of thing can really bug you. You think TLG doesn't have it but, they really do have it. But my question is why are we even doing this? Shouldn't all part numbers be uniform, one number for one part? I understand the evolution of part mold changes/ numbers over the years. Why doesn't Bricklink (owned by Lego) use the more recent part numbers, the alternate part numbers should be the older part numbers. This situation makes the LDRAW part library hard to use too. I'm assuming the software using this library wouldn't have a problem. I would just like to have things as simple as possible. Maybe I'm wishing for too much!!

Looking forward to that. Thanks!!

I didn't know 12v was so cool.

Is it "Rebrickable"?

I didn't comment last year but I am now because of your Glacier Express. I wanted to see more of your layout. It is still very impressive. I wish I had room in my house to do this. Looks like my kids grew up at the same time.

These are good ideas! Keep up the good work. Thanks for sharing!!

Nice is the way we communicate here. So. I'll excuse you this time. But I'm on a different continent than you with a totally different marketplace. Take that into consideration next time. Thank you.

You might be lucky enough to have a "Bricks & Minifigs" store near you. They are Lego resellers. My local store is great for such things because they get a lot of Legos traded in. https://bricksandminifigs.com/; craigslist.com can be good at times; ebay; and Lego replacement bricks too.

I just checked Playmobil.com and there were no castles vikings or romans. Most of their line was for children not old enough for Lego.

That very creative!! Well done!!

When you are satisfied! I echo what Milan said. I have usually taken on something that is beyond my current abilities. I spend a lot of time with it on the back shelf so to speak. Then one day I might have an epiphany, and suddenly all the problems I was having with it get solved.

Thanks for this!!!! I do appreciate the updates.

I've been there and done what all of you have said and for the same reasons at one time or another. I just posted my roller coaster Mod to Rebrickable yesterday. I worked on that project for almost two years. I kept thinking of better building techniques or found other people's techniques and adopted or adapted them to my project. I needed to document all the things I was doing as I went along. So, I do both together some of the time, some of the time I try things digitally first. I then order parts which takes at least three weeks to get here from Europe. In the mean time I find another technique and then had to order more parts to try that new building technique. On and on it went until everything came together as it needed to be. Let me tell you, rearranging that big roller coaster is a lot of work, especially when there are two 10261 sets. But it's done and it works well.

To clarify, PF extension cables (60656 or 58118) will connect 9V train controller (2868b) and any PF motors. No batteries or soldered cables are required. I can run my roller coaster all day with this set up. BTW, if you are buying the train controller make sure you get the correct transformer for it (110 volt input).

There are chain stores here in the US that are Called "Bricks and Minifigs". Check their webpage for a location near you. There are other Lego resellers too. Just google for your part of the US.

I agree that's a lot of $$ for that! Check ebay.com or Bricklink.com

I have Lego dating back to the late 1950s and the plastic is still in great condition!! And, I also still love 'em (for 58 years)!!! I am not worried that they will ever degrade.

Here is a very interesting 3D printed loop in the center of ONE AWESOME ROLLER COASTER. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4904898 I'm having a set of these printed right now. I will follow up with the results in the near future.

I'm kind of stuck. I had https://www.meshconvert.com/ convert my file to ascii. I just don't know enough about this to be successful. My son is printing some roller coaster track and I would really like to be able to use this part in my track layouts. I downloaded https://github.com/HazenBabcock/stl-to-dat . Does the Hazen Babcock converter have to be used within a "Py" program? Would someone be kind enough to help me get my file converted to .dat? I would be forever grateful!!