JopieK

If you Google you see some people doing it on LEGO aircraft and starwars figures (mostly clones). Maybe adding decals / stickers would also work and that would be reversible of course!

Weathering with model trains is very common of course, but I don't think it is a really good idea for several reasons with LEGO: - you probably cannot reuse weathered bricks - weathering effects would also be possible using bricks:

I would prefer a dog although we don't have pets right now.

Märklin even has a LEGO-compatible H0 base train car: https://www.maerklin.de/en/products/details/article/44734/ See also other including: https://legomodeltrain.tumblr.com/post/168859090947/lego-h0-scale-model-train-featuring-the-märklin LEGO used to even promote this idea decades ago and those cars are actually LEGO cars in H0 scale.

Just perfect Thomas, great job! Are those tiles inside customs (apart from the ship)? That whole block are potentially interesting buildings for modulars. B.t.w. you should show those ladies from LEGO Masters how to make a decent (great!) looking zeppelin ;)

Very nice MOC. Lot's of details. You can easily recognize quite a bit of the gospels in it.

Maybe these tips are somewhat useful?

It is not just you @Kallego: I already sent @LegoDW a message about it.

Ah ;) well, then you should ask shop keepers, they will probably know. But that also depends on the outer box size of the sets of course.

Same for creator, only the really large sets have multiple cartons I think. We just finished the Birch Bookstore and it only had the outer cardboard, rest was in sealed plastic bags. They mainly do that with electrical parts / large tires etc. as far as I'm aware.

Really nice job! Instantly recognizable etc. Next step would be to add a road with e.g. a small stone bridge or something.

Really nice one @LEGO Train 12 Volts. From drawing to real train! Nice.

Yes, was quite nice. Sudden change in the plot from a tall building to buildings under attack. It was a little lengthy though. One AFOL I know (Jaco).

This is how you should be able to fix that "associating files with programs windows 10" (it is more a Windows thing than LDD).

Very nice indeed, saw them on 1000steine already. LEGO should release some entire narrow gauge sets I think when I look at your stunning work.

Hi SnakeDoctor, maybe you can try buying Control+ or some other LEGO solution. Of course you pay more but you also get the quality. B.t.w. welcome to Eurobricks, hope you enjoy your stay, but also read the rules on clone brands. I (initially) did not know what CaDa was and just thought you missed an S (SCADA, or supervisory control and data acquisition) which could of course also use batteries :). On the module, maybe this is in helpful (https://www.technic-dialog.de/Homepage/index.php?page=11&sub=thread&thread= in German though).

Very nice job @Paperinik77pk, it looks really nice that way and the signal is always a great addition, would fit nicely with the green 'HoMa engine' ;).

Both :) And your idea is a great idea after all!

I misread the email from TLG on Ideas af first and thought you already reached 10k, but not yet, but you did make it to 5k! Congratulations on that @Alexander Hamsterton. Now fingers crossed you will reach 10k as well! Automated Garbage Truck by MochiMaster

You need three degrees of freedom so three motors should be possible. You could make the bed movable to have a X/Y movement and then an additional Z-axis for the 'pen'. See also https://openbuilds.com for different types of XYZ machines.

Really nice job captain!

Of course the motors turn faster as they are meant for 9V, they probably stop because they become too hot and then thermal resistor protection kicks-in. I thing the best way to do it is add some circuitry between the pickups and the motors (I assume you use https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=bb0053b?). You could use something like this: https://www.google.com/search?client=safari&rls=en&q=12V+to+9v+buck&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8. The only thing is that you need to think how polarity is handled. You could use diodes to decide how the current flows. Something like this would help to differentiate between +12V and -12V and in a second step you can convert +12V to +9V and -12V to -9V. See: https://www.circuitspedia.com/12v-15v-dual-power-supply-circuit-diagram-using-7812-7912/. They use a LM7809 to go from 12V to 9V. Not the most efficient solution but it should do the job. It seems the part is obsolete but it can draw up to 1A. You can't use this circuit 1-on-1 but I hope you get the idea. Get some components and a Lab power supply, experiment with it I would say.

Interesting idea. B.t.w. e.g. an iPhone can also be used to test UI through a test application that can monitor performance etc, so maybe a good combination?!

Really great job diegobaca, I'll try to see to get a Control Lab unit to connect to a Pi.

;) Thanks! Great addition.