JGW3000

Well done, can't wait for the BI - and finally, a use for my boxed 41008

Best use for Jar-Jar yet! Keep them coming!

Got mine today, thank you CopMike!!! Seems like during the long trip, some shenanigans were going on amongst the figures, when I opened the bag Electro was wearing Storm's hair .

This is not a LEGO problem per se, it is a camera settings issue - best advice is to read the user's manual, check out the camera maker's online forums, and experiment with the settings until you find one that works. Shooting video and shooting stills requires different sets of camera settings, as the demands on the final product are different. Let us know what settings works best for you.

In the US at least, customer service is in Enfield, Connecticut - not close enough to be neighbors, but still in the same state - we usually chat a bit about local happenings, best time to go to the beach, etc... A nice bunch!

Jim, great review as always. You convinced me to get this one of these days, although not a to priority. Any comments on which functions can be converted to PF and how well they work?

Interesting news, Blondie-Wan. I'm sorry, but Wall-E, as submitted, does not look a $70-90 dollar set. I could see $40-50 for it. So either there is one hell of a licensing fee, the project is bigger than it looks, or it was significantly modified and enlarged by the design team. $80 for TBBT suggests all 7 characters as mini-figs, plus lots of accessories (and maybe interchangeable torsos for Shelden?), which will be really cool.

I am looking at the front axle of the 8110 Unimog - seems like it is overdesigned, in terms of excessive reinforcements. Here are some recolored LDD screenshots - the black parts are what I would expect and typically find in most MOCs. The red seems excessive, and the yellow even more so. Are these red and yellow parts really needed? My intent is to build something similar, with the Servo motor for steering and an XL motor for power, but space may be tight and I rather not have unnecessary elements.

OT: Must be something with your phone, my Android (MotoX) had no problems - maybe you need to update YouTube app?nerdsforprez - very nice done, can you share details on the LPE? What air pressure are you running at, and how long did it take to clean all the parts ?

Wow, just fabulous; waiting for parts list and BI - I'm guessing 2100 parts??? I really enjoyed reading the detailed description in the website (http://nkubate.com/index.php?option=com_k2&view=item&id=67:predator-supercar&Itemid=566), great to have this kind of background details, makes me appreciate the model even more. In text write-up, it says "The only disadvantage is that the wheel scrub is quite large with this configuration" what is wheel scrub?

Wow, can't wait, maybe this week??? Big thanks, CopMike, a lot of work to do this and is greatly appreciated!

Swintendo - the two images you presented do not make your case - the air tech claw rig build at step 15 is well along in the process, and it is easy to see steering, diffs, turntables, etc. and determine their function. In step 15, in modern studless building instructions, you are just getting started in the build, what you show in the second image is merely the foundation for the functional components. This page is far more along in the process, and it is easy to see the functions to come, albeit 42020 is a much simpler set. Here is step 15 from everyone's favorite recent large set - no clue what is going on here, but I can see a non-powered diff, two axles with ball joints, meaning there will be a suspension of some type, and a motor for other functions. But look much further along in the build, clearly you can tell what the set is and what the functions are, at least to the experienced builder I think we are talking apples and oranges here, and whether you like old studded technic, modern studless technic, or some combination (Model Team), it is a matter of personal taste, willingness to learn, and abilities. I don't really see the difference in complexity between old and new, other than the introduction of "specialized" parts in newer sets. If we never got modern studless building methods, like in 8110, we wouldn't have portal axles, power ball joints, etc... Without 9398, no servo or L motors, etc... Without 43043, no improved pneumatics and who knows what other treasures lie within. Also, witness the large variety of builds from the last several contests - insects, forklifts, airplanes, crawlers and climbers of all types, enabled with both studded and studless parts basic and specialized. I don't think Technic is getting any simpler, if anything, having increasingly more and more parts and options, studded and studless, to build with, leads to so many choices that enables both simplicity as well as increasing complexity of official sets, MODs, and MOCs. Bottom line - its a toy, have fun with it! Build what you can, use specialized parts to make it simple, or use basic parts and build your own complex components.

I have to disagree, the new parts as just as useful for creativity and interesting solutions. My 7 yr old kid took 42026, black champion racer, and 42027, desert racer, both pull back, and has managed to make - a train with both pull-back motors - one on each axle, a derrick with lifting winch, a front-end loader thingy with gears to lift the loader, and something like a clock, all with just with the parts of these two sets.

Ha ha ha, well done in function and form! Reminds of the natural gas sniffer trucks I sometimes see, looking for gas leaks in neighborhoods.

Grum64 - I also have this problem of finicky axles falling out in the middle of a build - sometimes a temporary connector or bushing does the trick to keep them in place.

They are still 1 per customer on the US website, so I don't think they are trying to dump them, but only 10 days left in February, so who knows?

A few splashes on the body, just the tires got dirty - and didn't clean them - so no harm done to the PF's

Need to start saving and scrounging - anyone want to buy a slightly used 41999 (we took it up and down the outside steps and crashed it into the mud only a few times)

I don't have this set, so I am building vicariously through your pictures and text, keep 'em coming!

You may have some gears installed too tight, there should be a slight gap between gears and any adjacent beams or elements. Is the issue when the motors are running or when they are off? Not sure if this is a reason, but did you remember to center the servo motor (first few steps in the instructions) before installing it?

5: 10 38: 6 34: 4 32: 3 22: 2 23: 1 Tough choices to make, all are excellent builds!

Thanks for the suggestions, and yes, I am contemplating a walker, with good climbing ability, and with 16 legs - currently in the planning stages right now. Good to hear that the arrow shooter part works well as walker legs.

These two technic parts with rubberized elements are quite common, I am not aware of any others that are somewhat common that are rubberized or soft plastic. I am looking for something that may be only the width of one beam wide, with a cross-axle connection, Any thoughts?

Growing up in the 60's/70's and being exposed to (now vintage) muscle cars, and driving one - a modified 1964 Chevy, caused an immediate attachment to 41999.

I'm going with 8264, Hauler