falconluan

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About falconluan

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  1. falconluan
    I will definitely try to make it RC although quite concerned with its internal size available... Sounds interesting @Stereo Thanks for the suggestion. I tried to build it both in Studio and in real life, here are the results: Your solution also allow me to reverse the direction of the grey pin, so I can compare both of the looks in the render pics Here is the look of reversed pins in real bricks: Here is the look of the transe clear solution, please note that I have to change the bottom red structure to hold all stuff together. I prefer the look of this version, although I think the bottom needs a more tidy build...
  2. falconluan
    Hi @Jandel47, thank you for your kind words and your information and help on this MOC, they really helped a lot I tried to add dishes as front lights but not very pleased with its overall look. The lights on real tractor are caved in the hood while dishes are more outside of it. I actually wanted to invert the grey pin to have a more caved in look but there is no available space at the back of black 6536s with current setup. Here is a render with dishes anyway,
  3. falconluan
    Hi everyone, I've finished my first bigger tractor MOC: Massey Ferguson 7480 Features: Switchable AWD and RWD modes Pivotable solid front axle HOG steering with steering wheel connected Adjustable front hitch Adjustable rear hitch Front and rear PTO connected to drivetrain Fake inline 6 cylinder engine Openable hood Detailed interior and decorations Modular design and building experience Video: Here is what it looks like together with a diecast model: Some details: Chassis: Instruction at RB is here More pics are at here Hope you like it
  4. falconluan
    Greetings, I began working on the instructions for it and now the chassis is finished. Still lots of work left to be done, please stay tuned.
  5. falconluan
    @Jundis That's an interesting idea, I'll give it a try by filling the gap between the lift arm and top edge of hood and check the result. Still the lost of parallel relationship bugs me somewhat. Hi @zoo I need something to hold the hood tilt angle rigid, it doesn't show well in my pics, the 2L 41677 part at the left end of the "grey stripe" is connected rigidly with its right hole. If using a regular gray lift arm for the stripe, I'll need some connectors like 15100 to connect the both ends of it to form multi dimension angles, it then cannot help keep the hood angle rigid anymore. The hood has very limit available room especially in its front due to the fake engine inside it... Still, I'll try some more times, maybe I can find some good solution
  6. falconluan
    A small update on the hood and steering column. The steering wheel is sitting higher than ideal, I ran out of ideas to improve... Now I need rework the front linkage to make it more sturdy and then only some misc stuff like mirror, exhaust pipe are left to be done.
  7. falconluan
    As with the other tractors in this thread, I will make instructions for it too, please stay tuned.
  8. falconluan
    You are correct on this. After recheck some images with Sariel's scaling tool, the slope of my hood is indeed too flat. The hood in last pic has some slope at the top, the end is 0.5 stud higher than the front, it's not obvious. I think I need some more redesign work here, since the white strape is in parallel with the hood top edge. It will become madatoray if the slope is more steeper than current setup.
  9. falconluan
    Rebuilt the hood, I don't like the holes either(They were used to represent the massey word on the bonnet, but it didn't work well I think). Also improved the gap version, hope you like the new one
  10. falconluan
    There are still lots of detail to be addressed, the overall setup and shape have been finalized though. There are some openings for ventilation on the bonnet, tried to mimic them but not satisfied with the results enough, another solution is don't have gaps at all. Which one do you prefer?
  11. falconluan
    That's very true. When building the drive mode switch, I felt that I was basically trying to fill every single cubic place of the central tunel structure. Now I'm trying to re-route the front PTO from the centor instead of previous position. Then let's have it!
  12. falconluan
    Some update: I ditched the small turnable in the front axle using the big ball joint instead. By doing this, I can have more length for the fake engine, it also can prepare adding suspension to the front axle. Squeezed in a 4wd/rwd switch. Still figuring out the place for the control lever though. Rebuilt the rear hitch by making it more sturdy and compact. The front hitch needs to be rebuilt as well. The cabin and rear fender are almost finished. Will probably make a hole in the roof for HoG steering.
  13. falconluan
    Wow, that is a very informative comment, thank you @Jandel47 You are correct, the diecast model is a 7480. And because of that I was planning to build a 6480/7480 at the beginning, yet to find the 6-cy engine is quite a challenge. Even I get rid of the small turnable to allow the steering rack moved further back, there is no easy way to have a 6 pin thin beam setup easily for the engine. If use a normal beam instead, it means more height(5L) and the available height under the front part of hood is 4L... Based on my very inaccurate measure, the ideal wheelbase is between 19 and 20L, current setup is 20L, I can shorten it after the central structure is finished and it stills looks too long. Then I'll keep the wide fender and consider it a 64/7480 with wide tires
  14. falconluan
    Hi @Jandel47, thank you for your offer for help , also if you don't mind, please feel free to point out the places of it you think needs to be improved. That's a very detailed info which I didn't know before. I knew that that are two different looks of the hood of the 6400/7400 tractors, and I'm planning to build the newer version. A quick google search told me that there are other difference between them like engine, suspension, etc. Basically, my target is the die-cast model like below: Currently, I'm working on the rear fenders, and I made two versions, a wide one and a narrow one, the I checked the "Farmer Phil" YT channel where he has a wide tyre 6499, the red potion of rear fender does cover almost all the width of tyre. So I think the wider version is better, although it has a down side of more red 3# connectors are needed. What do you think? Thanks @1gor for your suggestion. Here is a closer look of the hub support structure. Due to the space for pivoting, the space above the 1L beam(between 6536 and 41677) needs to be not occupied. So if a T shape beam put there, only its end tip pin hole is available to be used which is not very stable as well.
  15. falconluan
    My topic is this one I've managed to make an axle connection avail place at the wheel hub steering link connection point, it may not be ideal but it is the best I can do at the moment.