Karle

And that is why, when asked if I build Lego trains, I tell them No I build trains with Legos. I have a Dream that one day Lego will come out with the couplers without the bumpers. On that day I can finally quit circumcising mine.

Try Scigrip Acrylic cement, I've used it on TB's turn outs and other ABS plastics without Issues. I prefer the 1.5 oz. tube for better control, but they do make larger tubes. I get mine locally from Tape Plastics, but Amazon carries it.

I suggest down loading the wheel chart from Brick Train Depot. This will give you an idea of what sizes and styles of wheels are available. For spoked drivers, Big Bens Bricks are very good, injection molded wheels. Brick Train Depot wheels are 3D printed but look like they are injection molded, the finish and fit are that good. They are pricy but the selection is very good as far as size, style( spoked, boxpoc, or plate) and counter weight sizes (sm, med, large, very large). Shupp's Train wheels are 3D printed and the designs are great. Unfortunately, the company that printed them, Shapeways, did such an indifferent job that I stopped buying them. These are the wheels that would not fit Lego axles without extensive reworking and refinishing. Hope this helps.

Good luck! T hat song is still burned into my memory

It looks good, I'd buy one. What is the scale of the model?

Gave them to a LUG member with young children and a tight budget. The tightest radius track I now own is 102R.

Check out Brick Train Depot or OK Brickworks. Good selection of spoked, boxpok drivers and plate wheels.

Also check out OK Brick Works for both custom stickers and 3d printed wheels. They are printing wheel sizes and styles that no one else makes. As Far as side rods , valve gear and ladders I make my own.

I've built several 8 and 10 coupled steam engines. I prefer to have the flanges on the first and last drivers, the reason is to reduce the amount of over hang in the curves. I should note that the motors are mounted in the boiler and the minimum radius they will negotiate is 104R.

Actually what you've built is a modified version of a Southern Pacific AC-9 (Articulated Consolidation- class 9). If you want to stick with the SP theme it would be designated as an AC-13.

It is a very eye catching model, nice job. I've not heard the term "Model Team style" before, would you explain what you mean?

Very nice indeed! It appears that some of your improvements can also be applied to the tri-axle Pete as. How did you mod the battery box to hold 8 batteries? I've already added this to my build list.

I used the abbreviation for the word " assembly". Now I know!

Take a look at Motomatt's 2980 Moc of a Peterbilt Tri Axle. It has a motor driven lifting stub axle megablocks'y with a spring suspension.

It would be nice if Lego would just produce some of the parts that they have already issued. Short steering arms (6571) and the left and right yellow fairing panels (64681 and 64393) come to mind. I'm sure others can add to this list.