EvilEnderman

Eurobricks Vassals
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About EvilEnderman

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    Technic

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    United Kingdom
  • Interests
    Technic, and professional Minecraft building.

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  • Country
    United Kingdom

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  1. For no better reason other than to have a bit of a laugh, I have built a 3 wheeled truck, powered by a (fake) V8 engine Alternate build of Dom's Charger Featuring: Opening front bonnet Detailed V8 engine with nitrous, turbo Opening engine cover to show engine mechanism Live axle rear suspension Front torsion bar suspension Detailed interior Steering via the wheel in the cab Free, high quality instructions available on Rebrickable Sample Page:
  2. Hi all, Here is a dune buggy moc created from 42111. Features: 6 cylinder boxer engine Front independant suspension Rear live axle suspension HOG Steering Sleek bodyshell Detailed interior Instructions available on Rebrickable
  3. Cheers! - The steering wheel that came with the set is one of the massive scale ones - it looked way to big in the cab of the truck. Part no, 2819 would be perfect for this job if it were included with the set
  4. Hi everyone, My latest MOC is in the form of an alternate build - a race truck built from the parts of 42111. The features are as follows: V8 Turbocharged engine with detailed pipework Nitrous Oxide boosters Front independant suspension Rear live axle suspension HOG steering Fifth wheel Opening doors with mirrors Interior with fire exinguisher Below are some renders of the truck: Instructions are available on Rebrickable Here is an example pic from the instructions .
  5. Why is it that virtual builds aren't allowed? I have long since moved out of the family home where the LEGO is kept, and would love to give this competition a try. I have a few lego parts lying about but not enough to build anything cool for the contest. Is there any particular reason why virtual building was banned from contests in the first place? As long as I don't specify any parts in colours that do not exist, it should be fine, right? Cheers
  6. Thanks guys, glad to hear it! The gear ratio is 1:2.084, according to sariel's calculator I had to gear it down quite a bit, as I don't have a very powerful battery box, and this motor is very power hungry. It can still get up to quite a bit of speed, I'll put in a little video once I get it finished, showing it's capability.
  7. That looks awesome! The colour scheme really suits it!
  8. Hi all, I decided to have a go at this competition as it seemed like a laugh, and I had a lot of fun making what I currently have. My idea was to make a vehicle and strap a massive great machine gun sort of thing on it, and sticking it on the back of a truck seems like the perfect idea, right? But a truck with a machine gun on it's own would be rather boring, so I decided to give it adjustable pneumatic suspension, for those tricky bits of terrain it might encounter, and of course slam it right to the ground for that street cred. It's powered by a buggy motor, so it's pretty fast on flat surfaces. Mode 1, extremely low for maximum speed Mode 2, maximum height for off roading purposes! Of course, being hydraulic, the suspension can be at whatever height you want, but this is to prove the point. Now, my favourite part of this suspension is that it acts like the sort you'd find on one of those lowrider cars, and as such, it can pull off crazy moves like this, just for showing off purposes. The truck cab as it stands is still a work in progress, I'm not quite as good at aesthetics as I am at designing the technic part, so bear with me in that department! Here you can see the mechanism, it works with the pneumatic ram, and springs in order to give the desired effect. Tyre omitted for clarity. Apologies for the poor pictures, It's the fault of the camera. For the machine gun which I talk about, this is still all in my mind, however, I want to utilise some form of spinning disc mechanism and accelerate a plate or a technic beam at high velocity that way, but I will keep you all posted on that side of development Hope you all like it! -Ender
  9. Well, I tested it with the lego battery pack afterwards and no cigar - it smelled like a blown capacitor or something. There was definitely some smoke emanating from where I connected it up, probably burnt the plastic. The battery is designed for use in one of these, and it's a pretty powerful little car. Perhaps it's just too much for the humble lego receiver to handle! -ender
  10. I tried connecting that battery to one of my older receivers (the wire had a bad connection to the brick connector thing), and I think it must have fried it. it didn't seem to work anymore. I have one more left, but I daren't try it again in case the same happens! Is it because it's the v1 receiver or does that have nothing to do with it? -ender
  11. ahh, I see, i'll give it a shot. Thanks for your help guys!!
  12. Ah, I see, that's good to know! My batteries were pretty cheap (came in a 100 pack) - so that's worth looking into As far as using that NiMH is concerned, will that work in place of the battery pack without destroying the receiver? (means I don't have to go out and buy better AA batteries) Thanks guys!
  13. Hi rm8, thanks for replying! I already own that NiMH plazma battery since I own a few RC cars. I only own this lego pack: , and the light grey and red variant from the buggy motor set (both seem to have the same issue) that lego Lipo is very expensive. The sBrick is very cool, but again, a bit too much to spend at the moment. Is that thermo overload protection why it won't work? If I connected the lipo to a receiver, would that still be in place? Also, what does "shunting it" mean? Sorry for all the questions, i'm not very knowledgeable on stuff like this Thanks for your reply -ender
  14. Hi guys, I admitted defeat on TC10 since my chassis won't allow me to connect any real bodywork to it (I know I give up too easy), so instead I decided that I wanted to try and reverse engineer gsia16's citroen saxo rally car! However, with the regular 9v non rechargeable battery pack, the motor will go for a short amount of time and then just slow down or stop completely, inching forward a millimeter at a time and straining the battery. I wanted to ask if this is the fault of the battery box not giving enough power, or the motor just being "old" (it's part of the 8287 set) I've searched around but can't find an answer (perhaps im not using the right search terms or something) anyways, if it is the battery, could I use a 7.2v NiMH from a RC car? (for example one of these) if so, that could provide a lot more power to it (more than the 9v lego pack could) and make for an interesting ride, provided it won't fry the receiver (that's my other worry about it) What do you guys think? would the buggy motor get a new lease of life, and would it still be able to power an M motor for steering? Thanks, -ender
  15. Literally the coolest thing ever. My mind hurts thinking about it... Nice one man!