42145 Airbus Rescue Helicopter MODs and Improvements

[efferman]

I really like the changes you made on the front rotor cover. Looks really smooth.

[nerdsforprez]

On 10/16/2022 at 12:42 PM, efferman said:

I really like the changes you made on the front rotor cover. Looks really smooth.

DItto.  Great changes.  Although my updated version is nearly done, and I probably won't be changing much more on it, the improvements to the front rotor cover are tempting.  

 

Admittedly I thought there would be more interest/posts about updating this model.  This is the first official Lego set in years that I actually bought and enjoyed building.  Lots of tinkering to be done.  I will hopefully get around to posting my modifications later this week.  

[2GodBDGlory]

I thought I'd show off my freshly built copy of this amazing set!

I was only using parts on hand, which resulted in this rather nice-looking black color scheme.

The main mods in here are:

1. I'm using PyBricks with RemoteBlaBla in order to use a standard Technic hub with simple, non-phone based control. The button on the hub is covered by the landing gear linkage. I think I could have modified it to avoid this, but it was still possible to get enough purchase to push it.

2. I'm using @JunkstyleGio's rotor design, because I don't have the large ones.

3. I'm using a custom swashplate and 5-sided part that I 3D-modeled and 3D-printed. They work surprisingly well! It's not any kind of improvement on the Lego design, but it let me enjoy building this set without spending any money.

4. The rotor head is lowered 2 studs using 3D-printed 3L links, as @efferman did early on in his mods.

This is a great set, and one that I'd be happy to leave on my shelf for a while if other projects don't need its parts!

[SNIPE]

On 10/2/2022 at 12:39 PM, efferman said:

Done! I hope there are no bugs in the instruction.

https://bricksafe.com/files/efferman/42145/42145_v1.1.pdf

https://bricksafe.com/files/efferman/42145/42145_v1.1.io

 

I am up to step 180 so far, here are my suggestions, some of which are bugs:

• step 71 shows the axle not pushed all the way.

• Step 136 is very confusing but I got it, other people might not however.

• Step 163 there is no indication on how to assemble the joysticks, just an image.

• Also you could raise the 2 DBG 6L links by replacing each assembly with this

• Step 173 does not need the 2L axle joiner on the end of the 6L axle, the 6L axle should instead go thru the hole on the main assembly and connect to the black 3L axle joiner which moves the 9L links up and down.

• In the inventory, 60483 is in yellow but that part does not exist in yellow.

• In the inventory, on one page there are part numbers that have been cropped out (on the right)

• The lower half of the rotor hub for the blades should be black, not LBG, the ball and upper half are LBG though indeed.

Hope this helps, I like the simplified design of the assembly using two 9L links with the 2x3 panel extenders, I recon my idea of using part 6571 could still work, but , in place of the three 57515 suspension arms rather than using 6571 to replace the five 6L links that connect each blade to the specialized rotor hub piece.

Regards, Snipe

Edited November 5, 2022 by SNIPE

[efferman]

On 11/4/2022 at 12:34 PM, SNIPE said:

In the inventory, 60483 is in yellow but that part does not exist in yellow.

the correct color wasn't available in io when i made the instruction. I have updated the file.

 

On 11/4/2022 at 12:34 PM, SNIPE said:

The lower half of the rotor hub for the blades should be black, not LBG, the ball and upper half are LBG though indeed.

The swashplate is an replacement because it isn't available in io yet.

 

On 11/4/2022 at 12:34 PM, SNIPE said:

• step 71 shows the axle not pushed all the way.

There is an arrow. i made it red now to make it more visible

 

On 11/4/2022 at 12:34 PM, SNIPE said:

Step 163 there is no indication on how to assemble the joysticks, just an image.

i guess this picture is self explaining because everything is visible.

 

On 11/4/2022 at 12:34 PM, SNIPE said:

Also you could raise the 2 DBG 6L links by replacing each assembly with this

this would reduce the movement the linkage would make.

Edited November 6, 2022 by efferman

[SNIPE]

 

I was wondering if its possible to move the landing gears linkages  doen a bit to make more room inside of the cargo bay, I noticed that there is a 1L gap on one side of the battery box where theres no cable (plugged in) for to put the liftarm that normally rests on top of the battery box.

That would certainly be a start.

Regards, Snipe

[efferman]

2 hours ago, SNIPE said:

I was wondering if its possible to move the landing gears linkages  doen a bit to make more room inside of the cargo bay,

actually i don't see a way to do this in a proper way.

btw. the instruction on rebrickable is updated.

[JaBaCaDaBra]

On 10/2/2022 at 1:39 PM, efferman said:

Done! I hope there are no bugs in the instruction.

https://bricksafe.com/files/efferman/42145/42145_v1.1.pdf

https://bricksafe.com/files/efferman/42145/42145_v1.1.io

 

Pity enough these links don't work.

[efferman]

6 minutes ago, JaBaCaDaBra said:

Pity enough these links don't work.

maybe because i have updated the instructions and forgot to update the links

https://bricksafe.com/files/efferman/42145/42145_mod_instruction_v1.2.pdf

https://bricksafe.com/files/efferman/42145/42145_mod_instruction_v1.2.io

[JaBaCaDaBra]

1 hour ago, efferman said:

maybe because i have updated the instructions and forgot to update the links

https://bricksafe.com/files/efferman/42145/42145_mod_instruction_v1.2.pdf

https://bricksafe.com/files/efferman/42145/42145_mod_instruction_v1.2.io

Thanks

[CelloFellow]

I have been building Efferman's wonderful modification, using version 1.2, and it is going well so far - great fun, and many thanks to Efferman for this significant work.

I did run across what I believe to be a design flaw in the original LEGO design (which is unchanged in Efferman's mod) in the roll control linkage (controlled by the left/right motion of the joysticks). It has a problem where the two joysticks are not locked together properly for left/right motions. The two joysticks can be pushed together (the left joystick can be pushed right while the right one is pushed left) because they are each connected to a "Technic Axle and Pin Connector Angled #1" pulling in opposite directions on a common axle and there is nothing to prevent those connectors from sliding apart on that axle when the joysticks are pushed together. This modification fixes it so that the joysticks are rigidly locked together.

I took the liberty of using Efferman's studio.io model as a basis for making these changes. I think this mod would also fit in the original LEGO build, but I don't know for certain.

This is the original linkage (located under the front cowl in front of the instrument panel). The two joysticks operate the two yellow axles in tandem, but if the joysticks are pushed together, they actually pull the connectors in opposite directions and they slide apart on that common axle.

And this is my proposed improvement. Some parts are shown with bright colors just for clarity, but they are all really black or light bluish gray. With this arrangement, the two joysticks are now rigidly locked together for roll control (left/right) just as they are for pitch (forward/back). I seems to fit well, and works fine. Can anyone see if I have overlooked something, or why this is not a correct mod? I couldn't see any reason the original design is preferred. But I'm no helicopter expert or master LEGO builder either!

I have put instructions and an updated studio.io here (they are changes to Efferman's instructions for steps 166-178):

https://bricksafe.com/pages/CelloFellow/roll-control-linkage-mod-for-42145-airbus-h175

Efferman, I hope it is OK that I used your instructions and model as the basis for this minor mod, and reposted the changed version. If not, let me know and I can remove the files. If you like the mod and wish to incorporate it into your model and instructions to make a version 1.3, please feel free - no source acknowledgment is needed.

 

 

Edited November 20, 2022 by CelloFellow
Changed colours in the second photo for clarity.

[pleegwat]

Looks like a good solution. The only potential problem I see is that the orange and grey liftarms may have more friction than the original solution, but I doubt that's significant.

[drenny]

Are there any additional Parts required for the efferman instructions? 

[mla2]

40 minutes ago, drenny said:

Are there any additional Parts required for the efferman instructions? 

Yes, see Rebrickable's comparison: https://rebrickable.com/sets/compare/slow/?1-set=MOC-120343&2-set=42145-1

[EWay]

On 11/6/2022 at 1:26 PM, efferman said:

maybe because i have updated the instructions and forgot to update the links

https://bricksafe.com/files/efferman/42145/42145_mod_instruction_v1.2.pdf

https://bricksafe.com/files/efferman/42145/42145_mod_instruction_v1.2.io

Hi efferman, thanks for all your work on mods for this! I'm currently building it, but I think I've found an inventory error... I'm just doubting myself because I'm surprised others haven't found it before.

The set contains one 31794 LBG steering arm 5x1 with towball socket and there's no mention of an extra one in the parts comparison tool on rebrickable - in fact the tool says it's not used in the mods. But there seem to be two required - one in step 13 and another in step 143.

Hope I'm not completely off the mark here!

[efferman]

Thanks for the information, i have added it to the part list.

[Lipko]

Sorry if it was mentioned earlier, but I think the vertical size of the rotor mechanism could be decreased by utilizing piston rod part (2852) with the new 5L suspension part too. So no custom link needed.

[nerdsforprez]

46 minutes ago, Lipko said:

Sorry if it was mentioned earlier, but I think the vertical size of the rotor mechanism could be decreased by utilizing piston rod part (2852) with the new 5L suspension part too. So no custom link needed.

Could you explain more what you mean here?   I am currently wrapping up my mods on this set which includes lowering the rotor mechanism even more from Effermans' mods

 

[Lipko]

4 hours ago, nerdsforprez said:

Could you explain more what you mean here?   I am currently wrapping up my mods on this set which includes lowering the rotor mechanism even more from Effermans' mods

 

Well, maybe not a good idea, I don't have time and bricks to get into it deeper.

[nerdsforprez]

19 hours ago, Lipko said:

Well, maybe not a good idea, I don't have time and bricks to get into it deeper.

Fair enough.  BTW... just wanted to say I am nearly done with building your light sport airplane.  Instructions were somewhat helpful but honestly the pics and reverse engineering worked the best.  I will post on that thread when it is complete; but honestly one of my favorite models I have ever built.  Lot of fun, and the functions are stupendous.  Thxs for sharing.  

[EWay]

On 1/4/2023 at 11:41 AM, efferman said:

Thanks for the information, i have added it to the part list.

Hi efferman, I see in step 320 there's also a blue 20t gear with double bevel that's not listed in the inventory.

Could I also suggest that the sub assemblies built in steps 290 to 305 be left until some later point when they're needed? There are some parts which can fall off and are left hanging for a long time... looks like at least step 336 anyway.

[SNIPE]

3 hours ago, EWay said:

Hi efferman, I see in step 320 there's also a blue 20t gear with double bevel that's not listed in the inventory.

Could I also suggest that the sub assemblies built in steps 290 to 305 be left until some later point when they're needed? There are some parts which can fall off and are left hanging for a long time... looks like at least step 336 anyway.

I think that was just a place holder because the green 20 tooth clutch spur gear wasnt in bricklink studio before

Edited January 6, 2023 by SNIPE

[EWay]

23 hours ago, SNIPE said:

I think that was just a place holder because the green 20 tooth clutch spur gear wasnt in bricklink studio before

Aaah that makes sense.

Would be helpful to make it green or something.

[EWay]

On 11/19/2022 at 9:10 PM, CelloFellow said:

And this is my proposed improvement. Some parts are shown with bright colors just for clarity, but they are all really black or light bluish gray. With this arrangement, the two joysticks are now rigidly locked together for roll control (left/right) just as they are for pitch (forward/back). I seems to fit well, and works fine. Can anyone see if I have overlooked something, or why this is not a correct mod? I couldn't see any reason the original design is preferred. But I'm no helicopter expert or master LEGO builder either!

 

Just finished mine with efferman's mods (thanks again efferman :)) and now going to implement this as the two LBG axle/pin connectors have a slight tendency to work themselves loose! Nice solution CelloFellow. Any extra friction is preferable to parts coming loose anyway!

[nerdsforprez]

Hello again everyone.  My changes to this set are finally finished and I had a chance to film and photo them.  I apologize ahead of time for the poor quality of the video, I actually had not anticipated the changes resulting in what you will see (hear) in the video, which made me think this actually turned out much cooler than I had anticipated and perhaps worth documenting.  Also, I did not film or take pics of the process, again, just because I did not anticipate the outcome.   But the model is still intact, so I can share if needed.  I probably wont take anything apart, but I can share details from memory and additional pics.  But anyways, here they are:   

1- The main change is that I wanted the rotors to spin faster.  They were too slow for my taste.  Also, when playing with the model and varying the pitch of the rotors there were some positions where the single motor actually seemed to struggle.  And I wanted to get rid of the annoying motor hanging out of the back of the model.  I thought that was pretty lame.  In order to do that, something had to give.  It was the two-speeded gearbox.  A gearbox for the speed of a helicopter is completely unrealistic anyways, and I didn't care to play with it - so out it went.  That leaves you with this space: 

 

This is perfect and just large enough to fit two old PF L motors.  Yes.... I chose to use an older system and it worked well.  Also, not using the huge BB of the new PU system saved some well needed space.  I powered the two L motors with BuWizz 2.0, which has ludicrous mode and also allowed me to gradually control the speed of the rotors, just like in a real helicopter.  I also changed the gearing.  The original model's rotors were geared at 15.5:1 (!!! slow !!!) for the low gear and 1.86:1 for the high gear.  Mine was geared to 1:1.5 (main rotor).  I must say I really liked the results.  Check out the video below.  The un-anticipated finding is that the rotors spin fast enough that you can hear the real "wup-wup-wup" sound of the bird as the rotors spin at full throttle.  Listen with earbuds or an external speaker.  Normal computer speakers probably will not do.  You can even hear the severity of the sound as I change the pitch of the main rotor through the collective and cyclic, because the different pitch of the rotor at variable locations in its spin cycle place a different demand on the motors.  Very authentic.  

 

2-  I followed and used the changes proposed by @efferman.  Great contribution btw.   This lowered the main rotor considerably.  Improved looks by quite a bit.  I also bought the swashplate he designed.  I purchased it off shapeways.  I did not do any formal testing, but my eyeball test says that @efferman's design allows for more movement than the Lego solution.  You can see in the video.  Also, it lowers the rotor one stud from the already lowered changes, IMO improving the looks even more. I had to re-design parts of the top of the fuselage, but IMO it all turned out nicely.  

3- The first change actually killed two birds with one stone.  I hated that the original model had the motor sticking out of the back end of the model.  Removing the 2 speed gearbox not only allowed space for more motors it allowed space for the motors to be moved.  So, no motor sticking out of the back.  So I closed it.  Now, this is not a legal fix.  But I actually did this on purpose.  Creating a legal close would have been easy enough.  But my solution here: 

 

 

allowed for the panels to slightly press against the tail.  The grooves of the panels fit nice and snug against the tails and give it incredible support.  So, the tail is much better supported.  Does not sag or move side to side like the official model.   

The video details everything nicely.  But love to hear any comments from others. Fun project. I really love this set, despite all its flaws.