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I've been into the update of old sets in the last couple of years, so it was just a matter of time before I tried to update Set 8440 from 1995. Set 8440 is simple with only steering a V-6, and a rear differential, but I thought I could add some features. Turns out I really couldn't .

I stared with building the original 8440 in studio, and making it trans light blue as introduced by @Seasider for TC20. I placed a couple of panels and wheels to get an idea of where to place the "hardpoints."

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The wheels would be a little bigger, but I felt it would be a good place to start. Off to work I went. I placed the panels early, and worked on the rear engine and transmission.

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I had hoped to add some sort of suspension, but lost interest in this part of the project. I kept spending time on the engine details and, for whatever reason, the front wing. Considering how these details would have had to be cut back to add a suspension, I'm happy with the direction I settled on.

Eventually it came together, and I'm happy with how it turned out.

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(I'm trying new photo setup, and still have some kinks to work out)

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The engine cover is removable, and the front and rear wing are easily removable. 

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I think it pays homage to the original 8440 well, but you can see the comparison below, and the final new over old overlay render (I really love these).

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A video to show off the few features of the build, and one of those fun little speed render builds. Enjoy.

Finally, I have made free PDF instructions which you may find at Rebrickable.com. I'm trying to keep most of my builds free, so I hope you are able to enjoy them. It's an easy build with common parts, so if you need to scratch your nostalgia itch, go crazy.

I'll take requests for other old sets to build, so let me know what I should do next. 

Edited by Thirdwigg

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This looks fantastic! I might build it this weekend. How about one of the old car chassis sets as studless?:wub:

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Nice, simple and elegant build! I do think it looks better with larger wheels!

How did you make the speed build render? Did you just render all the actual building steps (that you set up manually), or is it something that was generated automatically?

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8 hours ago, whitepen said:

This looks fantastic! I might build it this weekend. How about one of the old car chassis sets as studless?:wub:

Thanks for the idea. I'll add one to my list.

5 hours ago, Jurss said:

This is really good remake.

There are so much possibilities

Sorry @Jurss I should have mentioned you in the original post, as I referenced your great build through my process. It was a great build, and captured 8440 well.

3 hours ago, gyenesvi said:

Nice, simple and elegant build! I do think it looks better with larger wheels!

How did you make the speed build render? Did you just render all the actual building steps (that you set up manually), or is it something that was generated automatically?

Thanks @gyenesvi

The speed build is an option in Studio (under render, option Animation rather than Photoreal or POV-Ray). 

Be prepared, though. I am running a 2016 MacBook Pro with 2.7 GHz processor and an Animation nearly makes my computer explode. The 8440 render took about 23 hours for the 6 second 24 fps video. I tried to make one for the Ionos Sedan, it it took four days, then failed right at 96 percent completion. It takes a lot of power to run these.

It's a really cool feature, but make sure you have the capacity to run it.

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3 minutes ago, Thirdwigg said:

016 MacBook Pro with 2.7 GHz processor

Interesting how much processors come along with time.

I assume yours has an i7? My new PC with most recent i5 is @2.5x as high-scoring. If that translates directly, it would still take like 10 hours, but it's a bit less unreasonable. It might even be better, since I guess your laptop throttled down at some point from heat.

https://www.cpubenchmark.net/compare/Intel-i7-6820HQ-vs-Intel-i5-11400/2659vs4233

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1 hour ago, amorti said:

Interesting how much processors come along with time.

I assume yours has an i7? My new PC with most recent i5 is @2.5x as high-scoring. If that translates directly, it would still take like 10 hours, but it's a bit less unreasonable. It might even be better, since I guess your laptop throttled down at some point from heat.

https://www.cpubenchmark.net/compare/Intel-i7-6820HQ-vs-Intel-i5-11400/2659vs4233

Yeah, I'm running an i7. It's not too bad as long as I plan to not use the machine for other tasks while it's running. I set it up when I go to bed, and it's usually done when I get home from work the next day. But, running more than about 1000 parts usually exceeds my what I'm able to put up with.

@Jurss do you have a Studio file for your 8440? It would be cool to render all three of these (mine, yours, and 8440) together.

Edited by Thirdwigg

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1 hour ago, Thirdwigg said:

Be prepared, though. I am running a 2016 MacBook Pro with 2.7 GHz processor and an Animation nearly makes my computer explode. The 8440 render took about 23 hours for the 6 second 24 fps video. I tried to make one for the Ionos Sedan, it it took four days, then failed right at 96 percent completion. It takes a lot of power to run these.

Thanks, I was suspecting this answer, I have a very similar MacBook and have similar experience, never had the nerves to wait that much..

1 hour ago, amorti said:

Interesting how much processors come along with time.

Actually, rendering is more suited for GPUs, but the problem is that MacBooks typically don't have very powerful GPUs. Furthermore, as I have read, Studio is only capable of using Nvidia GPUs for fast rendering of photorealistic quality (not available in MacBooks). With such GPUs, rendering a frame should take a matter of a few seconds I guess (which is still considered slow in the world of graphics). But I guess that's what they had in mind when they added this feature to Studio.

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18 minutes ago, Thirdwigg said:

do you have a Studio file for your 8440

No. I'm lazy. And I have already too much computer at work, so I try to use it as less as possible at home.

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Thanks for sharing this,really nice. I'd look if I have the parts in blue and orange to mock "2022's McLaren" 42141

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Neat modern version of a classic set. Thanks for the name drop and good to see the old/new overlay is proving to be a useful technique. I’ve not been doing much Technic recently (apart from building the BMW bike) and been getting into collecting Classic Space and working in a couple of related MOCs. Also been doing some mods to the weekend toy :)

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It really shows how the new panels add to the organic flow of the models compared to the old techniques. Only thing that worries me is front suspension, the liftarms are hanging only on 2 pins, maybe using the 6L suspension arms would be a better tidea if you want a slim profile.

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@Thirdwigg: Very nice reinterpretation! And also cool to see the original model for comparison. E.g. I like how they secured the wishbones at the front from separating the technic bricks they are attached to. Having studs and pin holes allows for really interesting and space-saving connections if things don't need to move.

Say, what do you use as common point when doing those "overlay renderings", the center of the models?

And I would actually prefer the old wheels. :classic: Because with them you can also have wider rear wheels by inserting the rims of the old 68.6 x 40 balloon tyres into the smaller tyres. But I fully understand you want to make something out of "current" parts.

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On 2/16/2022 at 8:55 AM, Jurss said:

No. I'm lazy. And I have already too much computer at work, so I try to use it as less as possible at home.

I should learn from you :classic:I need to step away from a computer a little more often.

23 hours ago, bitbamboo said:

Thanks for sharing this,really nice. I'd look if I have the parts in blue and orange to mock "2022's McLaren" 42141

That would be awesome! Show a picture when you complete it. I wanted to try an old Canon/Elf livery, but other priorities got in the way.

17 hours ago, Seasider said:

Neat modern version of a classic set. Thanks for the name drop and good to see the old/new overlay is proving to be a useful technique. I’ve not been doing much Technic recently (apart from building the BMW bike) and been getting into collecting Classic Space and working in a couple of related MOCs. Also been doing some mods to the weekend toy :)

The technique has been fun. Thanks again for the idea. I hope you enjoyed the BMW, and I hope the weekend toy is getting faster and more reliable, with just the right amount of oversteer.

16 hours ago, suffocation said:

Really well done :pir-love: You've made the set look like a natural fit for the studless era.

Thanks! Glad you like it.

15 hours ago, Zerobricks said:

It really shows how the new panels add to the organic flow of the models compared to the old techniques. Only thing that worries me is front suspension, the liftarms are hanging only on 2 pins, maybe using the 6L suspension arms would be a better tidea if you want a slim profile.

Thanks for the comment. If I'm honest, the front suspension is the only part I don't like. I may try to incorporate your idea in v2. The current setup is ridged enough, though not locked in a way that I typically build. The 6L or 6.5L might work better, and it would get a better color match as well. Thanks for the idea.

3 hours ago, johnnym said:

@Thirdwigg: Very nice reinterpretation! And also cool to see the original model for comparison. E.g. I like how they secured the wishbones at the front from separating the technic bricks they are attached to. Having studs and pin holes allows for really interesting and space-saving connections if things don't need to move.

Say, what do you use as common point when doing those "overlay renderings", the center of the models?

And I would actually prefer the old wheels. :classic: Because with them you can also have wider rear wheels by inserting the rims of the old 68.6 x 40 balloon tyres into the smaller tyres. But I fully understand you want to make something out of "current" parts.

Yeah, the old suspension was really clever for what they had back then. It looks great, functions well, and is quite strong. 

I center those overlay renderings based on the axle of the wheel; usually the rear one, and then I adjust them so they have the same ground level. Particularly in these older sets, the wheel diameters are not consistent, so keeping the ground level consistent has been helpful for me.

Yep, the old wheels look better, and I really like the profile. It would be great to have different size wheels front to back, but using currently available parts is kind of a rule I hold flexibly ridged.

I'm glad you like the build.

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