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hy i just started with a new moc, and it will be a baja truck. ( :angry: : another one? Me: Yes, i'm sorry)

This will be my guideline but i think i'll get a different body work don't know yet.

https://41.media.tumblr.com/0bcb8b46ab9d817442e1165be4ea83d5/tumblr_mw31eiXRQl1t0matto1_500.jpg

It will feature:

- RC steering (servo)

- RC drive (2 L-motors)

- suspention:

- Front: duble whisbone

- Rear: live axle

I already made my rear axle

19640825378_506df46fdc_z.jpgDSC_0007 by thenextlegodesinger, on Flickr

19802662156_8a5df8bb21_z.jpgDSC_0008 by thenextlegodesinger, on Flickr

19640827440_23c81a89ee_z.jpgDSC_0009 by thenextlegodesinger, on Flickr

now i have to figure the front axle out. any help would be nice

also is it really necessary or better to have a positive caster angle?

thanks and i'll keep you updated

To Jim:

can i if i want still enter the contest with this moc or can't i?

Edited by TheNextLegoDesinger

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You need a differential aswell, don't you agree?

nope i gote the same discussion on the lego technic facebook group.

the axles are not conected i used the pin conector for strenght so the motors run seperated. motor A powers wheel A, motor B powers wheel B

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still both motors will try to run at the same speed :)

so yes, if you want something with a better handling you need a diff

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@TheNextLegoDesigner !

You are my man !

I felt in love in Trophy Trucks... !

My favourite is from Nico71 which I built and I'm still making further modifications...

Your rear axle is not bad, but I want to ask: Do you want to make a Lego implementation of the real one or you want to make your virtual Trophy truck... ?

I have seen that real Trophy Trucks do not have positive caster angle... maybe I'm wrong, but the BJ Baldwins seems not to have... but they got reinforced front A arms with unusual design... Maybe you should make something different as rm8, sariel, miguev or nico71... but try to copy the real design...

On your rear live axle are shocks placed to back... why it is so?

Max...

Edited by MaxSupercars

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still both motors will try to run at the same speed :)

so yes, if you want something with a better handling you need a diff

Exactly......it still works as a fixed axle. you definitely need a differential if you don't want to burn both motors!

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Exactly......it still works as a fixed axle. you definitely need a differential if you don't want to burn both motors!

ok maybe i'll remake that with a diff but the reason why i didn't wanted to use a dif is my TC6 buggy almost broke the theet of the 28 thoothed (mostly used by TLG)

@TheNextLegoDesigner !

You are my man !

I felt in love in Trophy Trucks... !

My favourite is from Nico71 which I built and I'm still making further modifications...

Your rear axle is not bad, but I want to ask: Do you want to make a Lego implementation of the real one or you want to make your virtual Trophy truck... ?

I have seen that real Trophy Trucks do not have positive caster angle... maybe I'm wrong, but the BJ Baldwins seems not to have... but they got reinforced front A arms with unusual design... Maybe you should make something different as rm8, sariel, miguev or nico71... but try to copy the real design...

On your rear live axle are shocks placed to back... why it is so?

Max...

why? because its the easiest place to place them. and also just to have some springs to show, i think i'll move them further on in the build

what do you mean???

Edited by TheNextLegoDesinger

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what do you mean???

If you want to build a trophy truck based on the real one or just something that looks like trophy truck...

Max...

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Well, I don't think you need differential here if you are going to drive on non-hard surface.

Good luck with MOC this time :wink:

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Well, I don't think you need differential here if you are going to drive on non-hard surface.

Good luck with MOC this time :wink:

i'll drive off-road most of the time. but also on road for some minutes

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There is no need for a differential. Connecting individual motors to individual wheels will provide some level of limited slip differential action. Lego's 8475 and 8366 models used this layout.

v/r

Andy

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as i cleaned up my chamber i didn't work that much further.

yesterday i started with the fron and i'm pretty satisfied.

today i rebuilded the rear with a diff like most people said now the axle is 1 stud longer.

the big question is the lenght of the chassis

should i go for:

- 0 studs space (pic 1)

- 1 stud space (pic 2)

- 2 studs space (pic 3)

- 3 studs space (pic 4)

19673552268_edd776956b.jpgDSC_0005 by thenextlegodesinger, on Flickr

19673554258_6ca78dd375.jpgDSC_0006 by thenextlegodesinger, on Flickr

19866547961_89008fa2fb.jpgDSC_0007 by thenextlegodesinger, on Flickr

19238937784_10d0fdbf31.jpgDSC_0008 by thenextlegodesinger, on Flickr

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Looks not bad. Differential is a good way... it's a trophy-rally car not crawler... :)

I would say pic 1 is OK, so 0 studs space... It depends also from the design of upper body...

And use the normal wheels also in the front... you don't want to make a buggy or? :)

Make a front view picture and front-side view picture without front wheel to see suspension...

Max...

Edited by MaxSupercars

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i use the smaller tyres in the front because they are flather at contact so they dont have that high rol resistance. also it was easier to put those in the front because the big would make contact with the chassis when turned. maybe it will work when driving but i dont think.

I'll post a pic of it tomorow that will make everything clear

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here is what i was talking about

19860877242_aa51b8eefb_z.jpgDSC_00011 by thenextlegodesinger, on Flickr

in the pic above you can see that with the big tyres fully turned it rubs against the chassis

below with the small tyres this isn't the case

19842092096_a49736c619_z.jpgDSC_00012 by thenextlegodesinger, on Flickr

because the big tyres make the wheel height 1.5X higher i just removed the suport, as shown below, and i will make a new one when i get allong with the chassis

19247392083_b7a2359fba_z.jpgDSC_00013 by thenextlegodesinger, on Flickr

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The solution is simple... put something (pin with towball etc...) in steering arm to make steering angle a little bit smaller... It's a common technique...

Max...

Edited by MaxSupercars

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after a weekend rest, i restarted this beast.

i ditched the bodyframe and went straight to the front. i started making de hood/bonnet and the front bumper. now i just get the feeling of how big this is getting

i also mede the rear axle much stronger and added stiffer shock's.

pics:

20160562522_ddbd49ac2d_z.jpgDSC_00025 by thenextlegodesinger, on Flickr

20160562522_ddbd49ac2d_z.jpgDSC_00025 by thenextlegodesinger, on Flickr

19546032674_3373a4e435_z.jpgDSC_00029 by thenextlegodesinger, on Flickr

the grey piece is a licence plate holder

19980613248_31c0cf3da9_z.jpgDSC_00038 by thenextlegodesinger, on Flickr

20174278961_cbb7c35d0a_z.jpgDSC_00037 by thenextlegodesinger, on Flickr

the suspention:

19980603548_83d747b25e_z.jpgDSC_00032 by thenextlegodesinger, on Flickr

19546041594_a23350e592_z.jpgDSC_00035 by thenextlegodesinger, on Flickr

20174277261_d5caa3d662_z.jpgDSC_00036 by thenextlegodesinger, on Flickr

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Not bad... :)

1.) Rear shocks are not well positioned... They should be more vertical positioned and attached above chassis...

2.) I would not use portal hubs in the rear... They give more gears to the whole gear system so also more friction...

The rear live axle linkeage and motors seem OK to be...

Post a picture of front steering system...

Max...

Edited by MaxSupercars

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Max i would love to show you the front but it's already boxxed in a lot so if i want to get a good shot, i will have to dismantle everything. but i promise when its done i'll mqke a naked body pic so you can see it.

1)why should i move them?

2)i'll think about the hubs this evening

Edited by TheNextLegoDesinger

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