MSM_546

8110 - Unimog U400 General Discussion

1176 posts in this topic

When these gears are used with a driving ring, they get pushed outwards due to the angle of the teeth on the driving ring and their mating teeth, this caused more friction between the end of the gear and the beam. Hopefully this shange should lessen the friction also.

Now all they need to do is realease them in lots of sizes so we can make more realistic gearboxes :wink:

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That is why the one with the 'splines' is obsolete.

Not quite, it has a niche that nothing else can fill (see gearbox in sig :))

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All of my clutch gears still have teeth.

Anyway, does anybody else's compressor sound like a canary on steroids when redirected to an unused PPTO? Mine makes lots of whistling sounds...

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I got my Unimog today, but the prices here in Norway is just crazy. 1699 NOK, or 310 dollar! It does not make sense. Can not wait to get started, unfortanly I will have to wait some days.

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All of my clutch gears still have teeth.

Anyway, does anybody else's compressor sound like a canary on steroids when redirected to an unused PPTO? Mine makes lots of whistling sounds...

My older style pumps sound like that so I guess it's normal. It's literally whistling as air comes out the unused port.

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I got my Unimog today, but the prices here in Norway is just crazy. 1699 NOK, or 310 dollar! It does not make sense. Can not wait to get started, unfortanly I will have to wait some days.

Is that retail store prices or internetshop? I guess it can be a normal retail store price in Sweden too. But on internet I ordered mine for equivalent of 1306 NOK, (€169, $234). There were some shop that are a little bit cheaper than the one I ordered from but they don't have it in stock yet.

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Is that retail store prices or internetshop? I guess it can be a normal retail store price in Sweden too. But on internet I ordered mine for equivalent of 1306 NOK, (€169, $234). There were some shop that are a little bit cheaper than the one I ordered from but they don't have it in stock yet.

That is the retail store price, but you cant really find it any cheaper at internetshops, if you find any at all.

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Finally got my unimog, have it half built. Apparently I got an additional bag of pins instead of some panels for the back, so I'll have to get those pieces replaced. Also the steering crossrods seem to be really stiff, I'm going to either remove one of them, or mod it in some way.

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Bought my copy of 8110 on friday.

Have just completed the cabin last night. I REALLY enjoyed the build so far. The new pieces seem very nice so far. Looking forward to use the suspension parts for mocs in the future.

Also liking the pneumatic pats a lot! My first pneumatic set since the dark ages.

The suspension is just awesome. I´d newer thought it would have this much articulation. The cabin details are also really nice. Love the hood, and the orange colour scheme is magnificent.

A big problem with the set is the hard steering. I´m a bit bummed with this, and think it´s strange that they released it with this "defect".

Nevertheless a great set, and I can´t wait to get home from work and build the rest of it tonight :)

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Bought my copy of 8110 on friday.

Have just completed the cabin last night. I REALLY enjoyed the build so far. The new pieces seem very nice so far. Looking forward to use the suspension parts for mocs in the future.

Also liking the pneumatic pats a lot! My first pneumatic set since the dark ages.

The suspension is just awesome. I´d newer thought it would have this much articulation. The cabin details are also really nice. Love the hood, and the orange colour scheme is magnificent.

A big problem with the set is the hard steering. I´m a bit bummed with this, and think it´s strange that they released it with this "defect".

Nevertheless a great set, and I can´t wait to get home from work and build the rest of it tonight :)

Well, the usage of pins with frction ridges in the steering was not a good choice IMHO. I'm working on my test rig to get this solved before I get my MOG on my b-day. Cheers

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Well, the usage of pins with frction ridges in the steering was not a good choice IMHO. I'm working on my test rig to get this solved before I get my MOG on my b-day. Cheers

I guess that will help reduce it a bit. Keep us updated.

It will never be super light steering as this model is pretty heavy, but I´m sure there´s room for improvement.

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Is it just 'hard' to steer or does it not steer until you move it? I have the 8295 telescopic handler and it has all-wheel steering but it is a slack so it really doesn't turn the wheels all the way when it is standing still.

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I got my 8110 on Friday and it is a really great set, however, I am really disappointed with the offset with the front suspension. I understand why they did it like that to avoid rubbing in the front when the suspension was compressed while steering, but It is very noticeable and just looks like it was built incorrectly even though it isn't. I find it hard to believe that there was not a better solution to this.

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Just pick up my 8110 an hour ago,looking for word to the build :) what's all this drama over the steering :hmpf_bad:

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Is it just 'hard' to steer or does it not steer until you move it? I have the 8295 telescopic handler and it has all-wheel steering but it is a slack so it really doesn't turn the wheels all the way when it is standing still.

In my test MOG that it does not have all the geas,axels, motor, etc and thus less weigt, but the steering was very smooth when I replaced the pins with axels. This mod did not resulted in a functional steering but prove to me that those friction pins must go. I'm waiting for some parts from BL that I don't have to continue with my testing. Anyway, anybody that have not built the new MOG can easily test this...

Cheers

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In my test MOG that it does not have all the geas,axels, motor, etc and thus less weigt, but the steering was very smooth when I replaced the pins with axels. This mod did not resulted in a functional steering but prove to me that those friction pins must go. I'm waiting for some parts from BL that I don't have to continue with my testing. Anyway, anybody that have not built the new MOG can easily test this...

Cheers

Can u explain more what pins to change before I build my unimog?

Edited by davidmull

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Can u explain more what pins to change before I build my unimog?

Certainly... :laugh:

You can see them on Manual #2, page 47. There you can see the Red Technic, Pin Long with Friction Ridges Lengthwise and Stop Bush (lego #32054).

It uses 4 of them... can´t miss it!

Cheers

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I have now finished all the parts from bags number one, and as earlier mentioned it apears to me that the front suspesion is not straigt! It really annoys me, it makes the whole model a bit off line. And the steering is way to hard. But I am very pleased with the drive train. I tried to hook it up to a M motor, and for a change it was not the drive train that "broke" but the engine that stoped. Except for the hard steering it should be really easy to motorise. Hopfully I will finish it tomorrow. And then I can get started with the Flat bed truck!

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Finally got my hands on the MOG and I never expected it to be this big! The steering seems to be the major flaw of this set, but otherwise I really love its hugeness functions and especially the tires and portal axles.

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Certainly... :laugh:

You can see them on Manual #2, page 47. There you can see the Red Technic, Pin Long with Friction Ridges Lengthwise and Stop Bush (lego #32054).

It uses 4 of them... can´t miss it!

Cheers

So what pins is better to use?

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I got my 8110 on Friday and it is a really great set, however, I am really disappointed with the offset with the front suspension. I understand why they did it like that to avoid rubbing in the front when the suspension was compressed while steering, but It is very noticeable and just looks like it was built incorrectly even though it isn't. I find it hard to believe that there was not a better solution to this.

I couldn't agree more... I got a really great look at this model over the weekend at BrickFair(There was a guy who ordered one from Lego Shop at home and built it there) and I have to admit that it was really odd that they placed that pan hard rod 1/2 a stud off centered just so the front wheels wouldn't rub the front fenders if steered and compressed sideways... I already know this had been discussed earlier in this thread...

The model just looks really strange with the entire suspension off-centered and not symmetrical...

I do have a question for anyone who owns the model as I am going to be ordering 2 sets for my wife... If you center the suspension how it should be using the regular perpendicular connector instead of the double offset one, can you use 2 Black Bionacle Tooth Pieces(One for each side with the curve pointing down) instead of the black 3L liftarms..? Has anyone tried this, and will it work for the clearance..? It seemed like it could work...

I know that there are stickers that go there, but she doesn't sticker up her models anyways...

Edited by Paul Boratko

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I couldn't agree more... I got a really great look at this model over the weekend at BrickFair(There was a guy who ordered one from Lego Shop at home and built it there) and I have to admit that it was really odd that they placed that pan hard rod 1/2 a stud off centered just so the front wheels wouldn't rub the front fenders if steered and compressed sideways... I already know this had been discussed earlier in this thread...

The model just looks really strange with the entire suspension off-centered and not symmetrical...

I do have a question for anyone who owns the model as I am going to be ordering 2 sets for my wife... If you center the suspension how it should be using the regular perpendicular connector instead of the double offset one, can you use 2 Black Bionacle Tooth Pieces(One for each side with the curve pointing down) instead of the black 3L liftarms..? Has anyone tried this, and will it work for the clearance..? It seemed like it could work...

I know that there are stickers that go there, but she doesn't sticker up her models anyways...

I did this for centered and make symetrical the suspension. I used this brick (the Technic, Steering Arm 5.5 x 2 with Towball Socket Rounded, Chamfered) for it with some more normal pieces and a litle modification.

dscn4108.jpg

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Is it just 'hard' to steer or does it not steer until you move it? I have the 8295 telescopic handler and it has all-wheel steering but it is a slack so it really doesn't turn the wheels all the way when it is standing still.

Last night I finished the rear crane and the load bed. Mounted those on the model and it made the steering alot lighter as weight distribution is more even now. (The cabin is big and heavy). Steering still a bit hard, but much better :)

The playability is AWESOME. I love the motorized pneumatic crane. So much fun! It can lift quite alot. I made it lift a bicycle pedal onto the bed. (Approx 250g I persume).

About the pneumatic pump:

As there is no clutch on the axel into the pump I´m wondering.

Is it possible to destroy the pump with heavy loading or is this a non existing problem ??

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