kurigan

Hey, that's a slick looking ship and that cock pit/canopy is brilliant! Thanks for sharing. Any chance of seeing a break down of your mechanism?

Congratulations indeed! A more worthy appointee i cannot imagine. A glass with you sir, and to bumpers all around!

A long time ago I too developed a ship building method in LDD which I thought was the “bee’s knees” and on it built a not inconsiderable fleet which I was all too eager to share with the world (well Eurobricks anyway). For a long time I was reluctant to share my LFX files, for fear of plagiarism, but in time I got over it and put a couple examples up to share with others I saw struggling with more conventional methods. At no point along the way did I stop to pick up a few bricks and try it out before spending months embroiled in ever more advanced designs. I still hold those ships dear in my memory (most were lost in a HDD crash) but have abandoned the method even after defending it vehemently against criticism from all sides. When I finally pulled together enough bricks to prototype in real plastic, the entire concept fell apart, literally. In the limitless, weightless environment of LDD it didn’t matter, but on my desktop, the hull of Snake just kept coming apart in sections and the deck wanted to collapse under the weight of her own rigging. Take a look back at the old WIP topic and compare it to Maidstone (one of my premier designs of that method). You can see all the extra support I had to add to keep her together and she’s still a fragile construct. I took Snake pretty far before losing confidence in the technique. Now I find my method is miles ahead of that and could have gotten there years ago had I not been so stubborn, and maybe listened to a few of those critics. So what does all that mean to you? Well, maybe nothing, though I do wish to raise some questions about your method in general without seeming arrogant, aggressive or overly critical. I’ve been on the receiving end of that far too often to allow it from myself, so I preface my post in an attempt to relate. Without a LFX to investigate, I can only guess, but I see some potential problems with your method. Chief amongst these is maintaining shape along the hull’s length. The curve along the side of a ship is not constant. More of a parabola it tends to be more shallow aft ward than foreword. The effect on your ships is evident but how have you achieved it? On the bow of my latest WIPs I’ve been using the conventional method, which I think we can attribute to CGH, but I’m not really sure. What I’ve run into is difficulty in keeping any one of those 2429c01 from going flat or folding too far and misshaping the bow, something like this. My solution has been to increase the points of contact with the armature, adding support and putting them under greater tension (from this to this ). Though the reorientation of the 2429c01 in your method is rather ingenious, if simple, it’s a similar enough arrangement to make me wonder if you will run into the same trouble along the entire length of the hull. What sort of structure do you have below decks, to maintain the shape as such? I can make out no connection between the individual sections along the gunwale leading me to believe that each section must support its self from the 3937c01 (or whatever other hinge is employed) on up. I tried something similar, though significantly more rudimentary, on my now destroyed schooner Raven and a previous iteration of Scorpion. Frankly it was a bit of a nightmare. Every time I wanted to show it off I had to reset the sections as gravity had had its way and pulled them down. What was worse; trying to get the walls to support anything but themselves, like shrouds, was impossible. Again, simply because I cannot make it out, does not mean it’s not there, but I see no support mechanism in place against this eventuality, aside from where the decks are built up high enough to do the job. In an earlier post you stated that the brick-built sails were simply there for effect (I’m paraphrasing) but would likely not be included on any real world versions. Do you have any designs on sails and/or rigging of any kind if you were to bring them to life in plastic? My primary concern relates again to the under structure and the flexibility all those hinges will give to the hull. At the heart of it all; though the ships you’ve presented built with this method are utterly beautiful, I simply cannot fathom them holding up physically. Even if you managed to arrange them just so, they could not be moved without having to be, perhaps entirely, rearranged. Just dusting them off would be the most delicate chore. If I’m wrong, please tell, or better yet, show me. Make it a discussion; it’s just the kind of thing a community like this thrives on and is great for. If I’m not wrong, I’d be happy to help out and try to solve these issues. I can’t be the only one either; there simply has to be more members who share my sentiments of both concern and enthusiasm. I apologize for taking up such a large section of your thread and sincerely hope you assume upon only my best intentions. It’s a rarity I speak up anymore and when I do you can be assured it stems from the greatest passion. At the very least, understand that it takes a lot of time and effort to compose a post like this so please don’t dismiss it. Thanks for sharing all your lovely ships and this very well put together and entertaining tutorial. P.S. I actually really like that micro ship from slide 5 :D

To give an accurate answer we'd need just a bit more information such as: Complete figures or just torsos? Shipped parcel or in hand? What generation? That works out to about 2.60 a figure. If they are the older versions that's on the low side of average. If your saving money on shipping and the figure are complete and in good shape, it's not a bad price. You could do better if you took your time, shopped around and made a lot of small purchases, but for the convenience it seems like a good deal with certain assumptions filling in the blanks. Try out bricklink.com If you were unaware of it, it'll change your world. P.S. already had this drafted before Mister Phes's post showed up, so I'm posting it anyway, but it can just as well be deletd.

Give you joy, sir!

It’s an interesting discussion. I was on St Croix this past October for my honey moon and had a chance to tour the fort. If you want some more detail, check out my Photobucket. You’ll have to deal with me and my wife in a lot of the shots, but I grabbed a lot for my own reference as well. One day, when I have millions to spend on Lego I’d like to model Christiansværn outright. Though it is a very modern island with a 21st century population, there is a small local historical interest. Though they tend to avoid the less politically incorrect aspect of the island’s history, they do a fairly good job preserving what they have left. I saw/heard no reference to the original color of the buildings in Christianstead but no one mentioned any change either. They are very proud of the Alexander Hamilton connection though. As for Eldorado and colored forts, it’s come up around here a few times in the past. The stock answer is “most forts weren’t painted” but to me that’s as dubious a statement as “most dogs are brown” . Though many fortifications of varying size and function were likely left bare stone, for the expense, those of the period which were meant to be seen for the intimidation factor, like Christiansværn, were often plastered over to protect against the weather then painted to increase their visibility. It depends on a host of factors, from budget to materials used in construction to the personal taste of those responsible for the fort’s up-keep as the application of plaster or paint. Many of the structures we think of as being bare stone were not in their day but now remain exposed because no one wants to foot the bill to re-cover them. Remember the pyramids Egypt weren’t left bare stone either, but over the centuries the lime stone casings were cannibalized for other structures. Now it would be considered destructive to the sites’ historical integrity to replace the missing coating. It is my impression that Lego as company is not overly concerned with historical accuracy. There are too many other factor to toy production, like playability, manufacturing costs, etc. to be worried whether or not a give set is a fair representation of 18th century fortifications or not. In passing I’d buy in to Christiansværn being their primary, if not soul, inspiration for Eldorado though not based on lack of existing yellow forts. Much as has been said above, it’s likely more due to production costs and perhaps a bit of laziness that Eldorado winds up yellow. Add to that, once again our own modern concepts betraying us. They couldn’t just do a Google search for reference material, as we can now, when Eldorado was designed. Perhaps all they could find was reference to Christiansværn. Being based in Denmark it makes sense that researching at their local library, the designers would like have found reference to Christiansværn, a Danish fort, first. In modern terms, being American, if I just do a Google search for “Revolutionary War Fort” I get mostly reference to Ticonderoga, even though there have been myriad revolutionary wars the world over. All things considered the answer is really very simply. Why is Eldorado yellow (and white)? Because it’s a toy. P.S. am I the only one who thought of this when I first read the title?

Oh that's cool! I love such clever parts usage as the boat hulls and dinosaur bodies. It all comes together so well too. I'm glad I chcked in to catch this. Thanks for Sharing!

I just assumed t had gotten shot (and cleared) away in the action...:)

Craig's list and yard sales. To get a general start with no specific intentions, just find someone selling off their kids disused Legos and build from there. Family and friends can also be a source as such. Once you have a small collection with which to start out and experiment, you can supplement your supply for more specific plans with bricklink or the like. You can even sell off the less convenient elements in favor of ones you'd need once you've found a direction.

Awesome. Obviously the brick built sails are neat, always are. I see a lot of little subtleties that really sell this too.I really like the broken up ship but I wonder what that sailor bailing water thinks he's achieving at this point :D Thanks for sharing!

Still loving it! This one might even be better than the last. The articulated canopy looks and gives the whole thing a very sinister look. Thanks for sharing!

Well it's hare not to share Benny's enthusiasm for what ever he's geeking out about at that moment. Once you get past that, though this is still an intriguing design. I share the impression of a space go kart, and I like it. It's fascinating how intricate it looks but still doesn't use many more parts than a old style brick-built version would be. This could inspire a whole new trend in MOCs if not theme for TLG. I too may start messing around with something like this technique. Thanks for sharing!

Thank you. I defiantly had one of those "now I get it" moments. It's the simplest things that have the greatest effect sometimes. I'm glad I was tempted to go off site to find this fabled Flickr WIP topic as I hadn't seen her lighted when I commented before. The effect looks great, BTW and I'd suggest you amend your topic with the inclusion of one of this images as well. I never did find any WIP images though and would be rather interested my self to see some of your process broken down. Indeed..?

I'm straying pretty far from home waters here, but I'm glad I did. This was quite a treat to find. Great lines, nice application of technique and an overall great design. It's a very clean, streamlined sort of boat, but you've worked in a lot of subtle detail. It's no stretch to say she brightened my day. Thank you for sharing her! One question; what part did you use for the door?

This is a just a really slick design. Little bit of the old fashion worked into a very modern frame work. I particurally like the tie in with the imperial helmet and the engins. Both have that 1930s style radiator grill, nice touch.

This is a great collection, so many clever parts usages. This should go for ideas.

This is great, so simple yet such a narrative.

Love the color scheme, very Buzz Lightyear :)

It’s my first time posting here and I apologize for linking off forum but I posted this in my usual stomping grounds, pirates, and it hasn’t gotten a lot of attention. Though it’s hardly purest, nor super hero based, I’m hoping I can garner some interest and honest feedback from some of the experts here. Since I try so hard for realism on my MOCs (check em out) I’m trying to reflect that level of accuracy and detail in the mini-fig crews of my ships. Despite the, admittedly, low quality of my proto types, what do you all think? http://www.eurobrick...showtopic=89295 Not sure what I’m getting at, not your thing? Just Google search Jack Aubrey or Horatio Hornblower.

I took some time off this weekend to build and used up about all the bricks I could towards Scorpion. It was starting to bug me as I passed by her every day and wondered about her deck layout. After a lot of deliberating, I decided to forgo a windlass and recycle the capstan and wheel from previous Scorpions. Now she’ll have a clear focsle for guns and a reliving tackle system, run from the wheel to the tiller. The arched roof sky light has been struck as well for taking up to much precious deck space. I started a SNOT deck, much akin to the Green Schooner, but all in tan. I have very few left and it seems I’ll need a lot more plates to finish it off. With that and several other parts that just aren’t handy, she’s likely to go on hold till I can find the funds with which to make a purchase. Since I’m going to have to find or buy parts for the purpose, I want to know if the black bricks over the hatch ways really look like gratings or should I stick with the brown? As for the bent 2714 “ski pole”; it came to me already bent, in a lot of used bricks I bought for my bricklink store. It was already useless and unsellable, so I bent it the other way as well and it makes a marvelous tiller. I only wish the previous owners had bent a black one instead! Just for fun I lined up the three hulls of this style up for a comparison.

That is... awesome!

Meet Lieutenant Nicholas “Dashing Nick” Halden, HM Sloop Ramcat, commanding. He’s making an appearance to display the new prototype for my custom uniforms. The print job isn’t great and the color match is terrible. When I print the on a professional grade printer that can match the color codes, the transitions will be seamless. Though I’ve continued work on more conventional torso prints, and rather like what I have, I find the results I’ve been getting with the paper coats intriguing. With conventional torso prints all the detail occurs on the chest in two dimensions. To me it hinders including subtlety and detail. I just never found torso prints entirely convincing especially for historic clothing. In the 19th century coats don’t stop at the waist and collars don’t lie on the shoulders. My solution is a longer coat, and yes the mini fig can still sit down in it, and a stand up collar. What do you all think? for more: http://s199.photobuc...s?sort=3&page=1

It is a fascinating technique to be sure. I'd enjoy hearing about yours, or any one's, experiences, if you decide to experiment with it. Indeed my mind went right where yours did with the POTC era shrouds. Theoretically being rectangular they wouldn't stick up above the freeboard as mine do. I went with these older models because they were a bit of a windfall and I really didn't want to order parts for the purpose. As to string vs rubber bands, yes. I do believe the SlyOwel original was done with string. Yet again, I just happened to have conveniently large and colorful rubber bands around. What's more to the point, I really didn't feel like tying any more knots or I would have stuck to the task(s) at hand. I actually tried adding tiles to nuisance and it looked terrible. Because of the geometry of the curve, unsightly gaps formed between the tiles and just ruined the whole effect. Instead I thought, if I were to revisit the technique, I'd think ahead and acquire 4X tiles enough to make the majority of her sides with. Then they would rest right up against one another like the plates do here. I'd still use rubber bands in that case though, for the benefit of added friction. Instead of revisiting this method exactly, i've been inspired by this build to combine something like my current technique and what Mr. Townsend has been working on with Matterhorn. With some quick assemblies I found plates to have as much, if not more, flex in them as bricks, when on their side as such. By having two staggered layers, the inner of plates and the outer tiles, one could forgo the shrouds entirely. An added benefit would be having one color inside and another out side, much like Matterhorn. At the moment I haven't much time for building as I strive to get my brick link store up and running (same user name. Pardon the shameless plug). When I do get back to the ship yard I'll be messing around more with this theory for future builds. I still plan on adding a post ship (of frigate) to my fleet one day.

At no time in any navy is she a frigate, but there's nothing wrong wit a brig sloop. I like her lines and color scheme. I see a lot in this design one doesn't normally expect from first attempted. The bow and tumble home techniques add a little refinement to the build. I'd defiantly encourage you to continue refining this MOC, she's great start. Thanks for sharing.