kurigan

Wow, this is coming along nicely. I rather like her profile. It was said before and I agree; very aggressive. The stern gallery is indeed impressive and I rather enjoy the wing detail. It’s both frugal and intricate. I appreciate what you’ve done to fill in the stern but I still find it a bit distracting. I wonder if using plates on their sides wouldn’t look better. Barring that, have you considered simply using another white bow piece? I have to beg you to please remove the light blue bulwarks. I know it’s kind of a signature color scheme, but it looks terrible in this case (IMHO). Black or more dark blue would seem more the thing. Instead of those gun flaps, have you ever considered brick built ones using 3068b? It’s something I’m sure purists would have aneurisms over, but I did something to this effect on my latest and just held them on with a bit of black tape. It needs refinement but looks pretty good. Calling her “corvette” or “frigate” is entirely subjective to time, place and employ. You could just as well cal her “post ship” and still be right on. The debate is a real world one determined by nationalities which do not factor into your idiom. It seems you’ll set the standard for what Blue Coats call there single gun deck square riggers. It’s a weighty responsibility to be sure; choose carefully .

Ummester: I have no idea where from any of that came. Instead of tying up Captain Golden Hook’s thread’ I’ll simply take the high road and move along. Captain Golden Hook: I really like where this is going now. A windlass instead of a capstan is clever and more appropriate for the size of vessel; I like it! Thanks for taking my advice too; the new hull is really coming along. Yes that does answer the question and with that I won’t bug you with what’s historically accurate or “how things were done”. Keep at it and I predict you’ll wind up with a sweet little cutter. I’ll keep watching with interest and if you’d like more input, let me know.

Green Schooner WIP Redux I am editing over the old post as I found it wanting. I suppose I could start a new post but that just seems wasteful. I also don’t want to discredit the support which has already been shown. Below is my attempt at a better, more informative, if verbose, WIP topic. If you’re taking an interest, you’ll likely have lots of questions as to how or why I made a lot of the choices I have. For those of you, here it all is. For those less inclined, enjoy the pictures. If anything is still unclear, you have a truly helpful suggestion, or just want to show your support, please feel free to comment. Thanks for your interest in advance, and trust me it’s worth getting all the way though. When I started this project, about a year ago now, I set forth with a few goals in mind. For one I wanted to frame the entire project within the idea of making an all-out pirate ship based on Skull’s Eye Schooner of Classic Pirates fame. Hither too I had always favored good-guy/hero types with my creations and figured it was about time I provide my mini-verse with some bad-guys to keep ‘em busy. When I was a kid, playing with my Lego ships it always bothered me that SES wasn’t anything like a schooner. I suppose even at that age I already preferred that the intersection where fiction converged with history be more in the neighborhood of realism over fantasy. I used this as inspiration and resolved that whatever came of it, I’d make this next MOC in the style of SES but as an actual schooner. My other goals involved further refining the “Bent Brick” method I had adopted and adapted (credit to Henrik Hoexbroe). My previous MOC, Ramcat, was rather experimental and in parts suffers from a lack of pre-planning. Though the basic elements are all there and the goal of an all-working-parts-model can be said to have been achieved, much was omitted for space while some things remain historically dubious. Knowing better the demands of this style of building I would be more well prepared with each step to make a more complete and inclusive model this time. Many of the things, like fife rails, left out or left peculiar to that previous venture would be rectified in this construction. Also important to me was to include elements from other builders which could enhance my own effort as well as incorporate other elements from real world examples I had previously shied away from. The final element I’d insist on incorporating would be homage paid to the American privateers of the early 18th century. In my youth I had considered such vessels to have occurred far too late in history to be truly relevant to my own interests or Pirate lore in general. As I matured, learned and branched out I came to appreciate these historic vessels, and the contemporary replicas thereof, a great deal more. Now, aside from perhaps Frigates and their daring crews of the same era, these are perhaps my favorite over all. For reference I’d look to Lynx and Pride of Baltimore II. The initial renditions of the project were less than stellar. It seemed that marrying my concept to the parameters of SES likeness was going to be a handicap. For one I didn’t want to destroy any previous builds to reuse parts and change the color scheme but at the same time did not want to go forth and acquire new or more bricks either. On the one hand I felt it a violation of my principal of “use what you have” vs. “order, just, what you’ll need”. On the other it would take some creative budgeting to afford the colors I’d need to do it right. Before I was done, however, I’d commit to both. After trying several different configurations of color, I decided that green should be the predominant color on the hull accented by gray, rather than the other way around as of SES originally. As for the red elements, I just couldn’t seem to rectify them on my version and abandoned them entirely. The shade of green was the deciding factor in my decision to order parts. The standard Lego green, that bright green of prefab foliage, was just too vibrant for my taste and didn’t give the feeling of pirate ship at all. Instead I had to go with a darker, drabber green which I could afford, but had to be ordered in sets and cannibalized. The gray elements would have to be dark gray and/or blay to compliment the darker green as well, but that I had in stock, abundantly enough. The rest of the ship would wind up black instead of wood colors. While “blacking” was a common practice for practical vessels of this era I also figure it would lend the schooner a more sinister look. This time around I built the ships sides in a “ribbon” like fashion, flat on the deck then tested it again and again around an armature. After a lot of trial and error of both elements, the ribbon and armature, I came up with a hull shape I found pleasing and accurate (enough). Astern I expounded on a concept I added to Ramcat as more of an afterthought which made attaching the ribbon to the armature particularly difficult. Though I am a little ashamed to admit I do not know the name of, nor can I find any reference to it; I found the lack of curve on the underside of the hull near the stern disenchanting. Even heavily laden ships have a small portion of their hull’s underside above the water line as it narrows to the stern post. On this model I wanted to make this effect more pronounced and better well incorporated in to the transom. Though not entirely successful, I think the scale to small to really work well, I find her stern profile passable. Since the dynamic shape I had envisioned escaped me I took advantage of the increased space and added elements for a working rudder. Only the rudder head and till actually exist as the rest would be below the water line, but all the same, working elements were established early on as a primary goal. Up forward another working element was integrated when inspiration struck. I always considered the idea of a functional windlass/capstan fundamental. Any round part on an axle will coil a cable. Going years back to Snake, though, I wanted to make something of a more practical model than just round bricks on pins. While looking over pictures of schooners for inspiration I took a closer look at the more advanced, metal, windlasses of 19th century vessels as such. I saw a lot of similar shapes in common with technic parts and started building. Digging though my bag of gears and such, I found a lot of useful parts and cobbled together some designs that would very much look the part but still not quite work. What I was missing was a ratcheting action. To function it would need cat’s paws but on that scale, how? I found a gear which worked well with a cheese wedge to lock in place but needed a spring. (Purists prepare to cringe) In one rendition I actually tried to use the spring from a retracting ball point pen but it was impossible to keep in place. The smooth surface of Lego bricks failed to create enough friction. After that I tried pieces of flexible material, like card stock and balsa wood, but none of it had the necessary tension. Then out of the blue I thought of closed cell foam. Over the years I had saved plenty of the stuff from the likes of video game console packaging for myriad uses. I even had black which would blend well into the schooner’s décor. With a cheese wedge attached to a clip to make a hinge and pressed up against a wall, the foam acted like a spring and the ratchet worked. I now had a truly functional and practical windlass for my schooner. If I could bring mini-figures to life, they could use the windlass just like the real thing! See Video Amid ships there was much more work to be done. Mounting masts was nothing new, the same methods from Ramcat would be used over but the railings and deck were going to be a challenge. The belaying pin system I developed for Ramcat would work well, but I would need a lot more pins this time and the same standard would be needed on the new fife rails as well. In this system a clip holds a pin firm in place, rather than loose through a board like the real thing. This is so that a rope to be belayed in place need be only wrapped around the pin once to hold its place while reaching through the web of lines on the model. Then the clip and pin can be removed as one, the line still held in place, and belayed properly; free of the ships rigging where the modeler can work more easily. Once properly tied off the assembly can be replaced on the rack to resume proper tension, taking full advantage of the Lego system. Then next thing to be incorporated were deck housings. In my previous works I shied away from such construction for lack of deck space. Instead I had tried to compensate for the small scale by leaving hatch ways and gratings flat or even flush. For a basic interpretation this works well enough but is a characteristic more appropriate for much larger vessels. On schooners of this type, raised deck housings helped compensate for a distinct lack of space below deck and are a key characteristic of those ships. The first rendition of these was rudimentary by comparison, but served to develop the hatch ways I kept on the later version. Though they do not open and close freely, these covers and doors can be configured to remain either open or closed. Since the type of model (waterline), scale and construction technique make a below decks space impossible, I figured this is a nice way to allude to one for certain scenes. I also wanted to take this model to the next level with a planked deck, never much enjoying the studded decks of my previous efforts. A tiled deck may have seemed easier at first but it would have made for a lot more spacing conflicts with the armature and the tiles as planks would be just too wide. Instead I tried out something I had seen here on Classic Pirates. I assembled gray plates on their sides and staggered them to resemble the planks. I feel it worked out rather well. I picked gray over beige or brown, not only because I have no abundance of those other colors but because I wanted to serve that sinister look. Wooden decks not regularly sanded and scrubbed, nor sealed and coated will turn gray when exposed to the weather. Unfortunately I didn’t have enough of any one gray to do all of the deck, so I took a queue from castle builders and started throwing in other grays randomly. My hope was that the different colors would resemble damaged, well worn and/or repaired sections. I think the overall effect worked, but worry that some particular sections may still be distracting. Still to be worked on: The wheel, I copied Ram cat’s design but, this time with the intention of actually attaching the line to the till to work the rudder. I had planned on using relieving tackles below deck to give the wheel a more realistic feel. After completing the deck from what was on hand, plates of every dimension from 1 to 4 studs wide, I’m not sure I still have the space. I may have to settle for a direct connection. The gun flaps are currently held in place with strips of tape. I tried many different configurations of bricks to make a hinge but found none that worked ad still fit the size/scale of the ship. I came up with this idea while pondering how the actual hinges were attached. Purists may cringe, again, but after seeing how well these work and look my intention is to print stickers to replace the taps and look like iron hinges. I actually don’t feel that this is too much of a purism violation, not that I am very much concerned. After all though not for articulation, even Lego uses stickers to decorate their creations at time. Mine will just be a custom sticker. Belaying pins have been something of a struggle on this build. On Ramcat I simply turned dowel against a file in my hands and that worked well enough. The shape was simple but served the purpose. Purest may again take umbrage but there simply are no parts in the Lego catalog that will work just right. This schooner has so many more pins than Ramcat (26 vs. 44), that I decided that old method would be remarkably impractical. I attempted to makeshift a lathe with my Dremel tool. It worked well enough but I found it difficult to produce consistent shapes. Perhaps with practice or a proper tool, I could do better but that would simply be far more of an investment than I’d like. Instead I tried to design 3D belaying pins to print with Shapeways. My efforts there have hit a hurdle in the form of my lacking experience as well. There are problems with my mesh which will take an investment in self education all its own to correct. On this front, any assistance the community can offer would be appreciated. There are still scale miles of rigging to be rove, though the masts and spars as complete and ready. Sails will be their own adventure as I moved on from Ramcat before ever making her suit. Though it will require some experimentation, both vessels will likely get their suits at the same time. I figure at this point that my end goal for this project cannot be reached in the remaining time. I had resolved to complete the project by October 31st in order to utilize it in a Halloween appropriate scene. After that I had hoped to use her in conjunction with Ramcat and some of my other MOCs in a number of vignettes and perhaps even on display at convention(s). Between changing jobs and getting married, though, I simply haven’t been able to keep up. At this point I fear the project never being completed let alone dragging on any longer. Though I still hold out hope for a finished Ramcat, it was much the same situation and still she collects dust. I may very well be able to broker some free time in the near future I can use towards this cause though. I still don’t’ find the end of the month realistic but I don’t believe any of the local (Philadelphia area) conventions occur till the New Year. If you made it this far, thanks for your investment and interest. I do appreciate the encouragement I’ve received (most of the time) from this community over the years and that’s probably why I keep coming back. Please leave your comments, but in mind of her incomplete status.

Sorry if I come across as a bit abrasive, but before I can offer help I feel the need for clarity on a few points. Can you define what you mean by sloop? Have you reference material from which you are designing? Is this a model, a work of fancy or something in between? Since I'm a little tardy to the party I'll take my chances and jump right in; take it or leave it. Much of what I'm about to suggest is illustrated on my new photobucket (which I have not yet premiered) between my two latest projects, Green Schooner and Ramcat. My limitations are similar when it comes to brick supply, so much of the decisions I've made there were to serve that need. The method employed in these is based on Henrik Hoexbroe's discussed here. It's the same concept used on Maydayartists' Revenge, and no one would dare say that doesn't look great. Essentially you can save your #26095s, and the like, for the bow and still create a dynamic profile. Build the sides of the ship flat like a ribbon mirroring both sides. Then wrap it around an armature which sets the hard points (the spots where the width is defined as being particularly wide or narrow). I've found that this not only makes a great looking hull but allows me to use basics bricks to build on a larger scale. With the incorporation of #3164s, and equivalent, to add tumble home you can really take your shape to the next level. On the bow, Mr. Townsend is in the right and what you have so far looks pretty good. What I was going to suggest first, it looks like you've figured out, and that is to stagger your #26095s so you can have a single 1x2 in front. To expand on that idea though, what made my hulls really stable, so much so that I can pull on the walls with tension from the rigging without them deforming, was to put one row of hinges at the top and another at the bottom. Even staggered between the two rows it adds a lot of strength. The capstan is neat but since it functions so similar to the real thing I wonder why the affectation of hiding its workings below deck. Check out Foremast Jack's tutorial on capstans for illustrated information on my meaning. From the perspective of historic reference (so if we're not on the same page, simply disregard) your hawse-holes are too close to the water and on such a small vessel would likely not run right to the cable tiers below deck but up on the spar deck instead. The reason for this is simply the sea it's self. They are essentially holes in the hull and you wouldn't want to invite the oceans water inside by having them so close to the surface. I might suggest moving them higher up for a better look. I do notice the translucent bricks astern and wonder if you intend to incorporate a cabin? If that is the case I defiantly suggest enlarging the hull. It will get very difficult to make a cabin look good on such a small scale even if it's just a facade. In general I think the project would be better served on a larger scale. Do take note, please; I do not intend to come off as pretentious or know-it-all like. My true intent is to be encouraging and enthusiastic. I've take time out of my busy day to compose all this as to be as useful as possible, so clearly I care. If I use a term without explanation, it's only because I know a simple Google search will cast a light on its meaning and do a better job educating all who take an interest, than I could alone.

Well it's almost time, this weekend, so I figured I'd bump this and see if there was any new interest. How about it?

Sorry to get here late. I meant to add to this sooner but I’ve been very busy. I like were your going and what you have so far. It’s a nice start. I do have some things to suggest. Much of it’s been said but I’ve had it prepared, so why waste it? Without any other gray on the hull, the upper halves of the pre-fabs are distracting. Perhaps consider adding more grey. On this type of rig your first head sail should fit between the bow and the mast. With your mast so far forward the jibs will be too far out and the main sail won’t be far enough back. Take a look at Mr. Townsend’s image; you’ll see the mast is significantly farther back, almost amidships. On a similar note, the fighting top should move up the mast. Where it is it would interfere with the luff of the main sail. If you still want to stick with the Lego shrouds, it looks as though the longer variety would be about right. The prow and other embellishments are neat but seem more appropriate for a galleon.

Indeed it is and by intent. I picked up on it when he offered it himself here. The first time I actually saw it was on Cutty Shark but at the time I dismissed it as likely being beyond my scope. When I looked at the the link shared of his fishing boats I realized it was simpler than expected. In fact it pretty much makes use of the most basic of bricks, which is right up my alley. I did a few tests and that lead to Ramcat. I'll assert once again, it's not my innovation, this technique. I've just taken and ran with it. I have made some adjustments to serve my needs but I don't wish to steal credit. Henrik Hoexbroe, as far as I know, was the original innovator of this brilliant technique

I'd love to compare notes and such. Naturally my first notes should come as no surprise and may not be what you want to hear. First and for most; get her off those prefab hulls. I read what you wrote about money spent and trust me I understand the sentiment. I don't know that you’re going to do yourself any favors or your design any justice with those, particularly as your using the more narrow variety. Hither to, small hulls haven’t been quite so popular in part because of the scaling issues. Legos just don't tend to allow you to get quite small enough and maintain realism or detail. Tiny vessels then wind up being of similar length and breadth as much larger ships. A fine case in point is DPW's Pickle. The real pickle is downright diminutive, smaller even than your Hanna, yet his built on the newer, larger pre-fabs, is still cramped on deck. My own Green Schooner is as long and wide as my SES. My first impression is that you’re exaggerating her scale, which seems evident in the height of her free board. Check these guys out they have a model kit of Hanna and very nice images thereof. On those you can see that the gunwale is only up to about knee height. Your seems as though it would come up above the shoulders of your mini-figure there. It also appears that you intend to build a separate focsle there by sinking the gun deck like the waist of a frigate. I didn't see that in any of the reference material I found. Rather the only division was amid ship where the quarter deck was slightly higher than then the gun/weather deck. I find here proportions to be very similar to the replica vessel Sultana of which I have a few detail shots for my own reference. Check them out, perhaps you’ll find them useful.

Philly Brick Fest 2014. I plan to attend, does anyone else? I’m just curious if there’s a chance to meet any Classic Pirates people. This is going to be my first Lego convention so it’ll be something of an adventure.

On April 4th, the top sail schooner, Raven suffered a collision with an unknown object, in dirty weather. The impact damaged her hull and dislodged both her masts, bringing all her rigging by the board. Her passengers and much of her crew escaped to safety in the ships long boat with the captain's permission. Captain Michael McBride and two of his mates stayed behind in an attempt to save the ship. With the rudder intact the three men attempted to jury rig a sail to get steerage way on her but to no avail. After listing, half submerged for the better part of the day and night, as the men struggled to salvage what they could, she drifted in to dangerous shoals where a second strike sealed her fate. Mc Bride gave the order to abandon ship. He and his mates climbed into the ships jolly boat, rigged with a single stay sail and shoved off. Shortly after 2am Raven broke up and slipped beneath the waves. No hands were lost though much of her valuable cargo of timbers, fine hats and army uniforms sank with her. Mc Bride and his mates were able to sail the jolly boat to safety. Upon arrival in port Mc Bride was brought before representatives of his employer as well as the town’s magistrate and was acquitted of any wrong doing or negligence. Despite assertions of seeing a large creature in the murk the testimony of his crew assured all parties concerned that the danger was unforeseeable under the conditions and that the actions of Mc Bride and his mates were heroic in the salvation of the crew and attempted preservation of the ship and cargo. Ok that was my quaint attempt to hyperbolize the events with in my own story. What really happened is far more mundane. My father was running wire in my basement when he slipped and fell from a ladder. In a way it’s probably fortunate he landed on my ships, as otherwise his decent would have likely have ended on the concrete floor. I had no idea it had happened untill hours later as I was at work. Underneath him were Raven, Snake and Narthex. The damage to Narthex was rather superficial and quickly repaired. Snake, though cherished has been something of a write off for some time as her rigging has never been quite stable (I’ve repaired it countless times) and is slated for reconstruction in the future. Raven took the brunt of the force. Her rigging was smashed and hopelessly tangled. Her hull was broken and smashed in places. Since I had been considering her for reconstruction I decided to turn lemons in to lemonade. I recently started a side project that was to be a prototype for Raven’s reconstruction but ran out of parts. It seemed logical, even serendipitous, to combine the two and skip the prototype. It would mean not having that one more ship for my fleet, but the improvement of an existing one instead. After a few images to record the event I tore raven apart and immediately began incorporating her parts into the new hull. The new ship will be a topsail schooner as well but will use my new style of hull building. Below is an image of the new schooner but I will likely start a WIP thread for her when something more substantial is prepared and I’ve a better idea on a name.

I’ve been awaiting this and though I’m not surprised that once complete, she looks great, I do find that the cumulative effect is even greater than the sum of her parts. Immediately my eye is drawn to the custom ensign and pennant. That’s a nice detail most wouldn’t bother with. Some purists might scoff at modifying the window panes, but I love it. It’s very well done and lends her a unique and interesting profile. It looks great and is immediately recognizable. Of course I appreciate the rigging and the research that must have gone into such a complete, detailed and accurate plan. Don’t know that many noticed but I rather enjoy that you made her a snow as well. The netting on the bow sprit is another interesting detail, which caught my eye. On that same note I also like the two “seats of ease” at the head and the way the head rails attach to the hull. I do find the coloring of the figure head a bit curious though. Pinnacle’s proportions, over all are pretty spot on. I like her so much better off the pre-fab hulls. I find brick hulls like this look more like they are afloat in the water rather than perched atop it. The Admiral’s picture conjures up thoughts of Steven lamenting the all too abrupt passing by of so many classic sites as Sophie sped across the Med. I’m curious about the name change, and if I’m not mistaken it hasn’t yet been addressed. I do like the new name, but isn’t it bad luck? On what frank said. If you’re looking to make a change, try out what I’ve done on Ram Cat. I used 1 X 1 rounds built into the hull with the “chains” lark’s headed or cow hitched around them. It’s remarkably strong and stable. I can tighten her shrouds like a violin. I would rather enjoy seeing these two next to each other if the opportunity ever arises. Thanks for sharing and keeping us in on the process.

I neglected to comment on this when it was fresh but I've no shame of bumping it now that I have a moment to look back over what I missed. This is a spectacular and innovative build, something dear to my heart. The hull shape is amazing and I do rather like the stern gallery. I have to agree to her likeness to Hermione and she is a lovely ship. At first I was a bit trepidatious about your concept to merge techniques and make modular gunwales. It seemed that the lower portion wouldn't match up with upper works, the former seeming smoother/rounder as is it's intent. Looking at your execituion, however I can see your sections match up rather well, likely the result of jumper plates. I'm anxious to see more of her upper works complete as to finish out her lines. I do have one concern about the design which it'd be great if you could shed some light on. How do you plan to approach the rigging and how will it impact the modularity? I took a look back at Æneias and where that rig works, it's is significantly simpler than that of a frigate and a lot less intricate than what I'd like to see atop this master work (in progress). All in all, great work! Can't wait for future updates.

This is a lovely schooner. So simple yet so well executed. Of course I love the cloths sails that change state.

Ram Cat Replies First, thank you all for your interest and support. I got a lot more replies and interest in this project than I ever expected. Frankly when I posted her I expected much harsher criticism. I suppose if you spend enough time on a project like this you can get hung up on the flaws and focus on the negative. Because you guys took the time to show your support, I’ll return the favor and break down my reply more directly to each. Sorry in advance for the length of the post. Sebus I: Indeed she is compact. There are several deck features I had to omit for space, which I would have liked to have. The French doors to the cabin are necessary because of her small size. They really should be single doors to either side, but then they would interfere with the guns. I took my time over a few weeks to tie knots and such, but what was really time-consuming was the planning. I spent many hours poring over reference images, reading dry sailing blogs and often times just staring at her till the wee hours. Ultimately I had to pull out the trusty old drafting set and draw out my own rigging plan. What was a lot of fun was getting the running rigging to where it is now having had to reach through with tweezers and forceps. The sprit is just one of those things. Been over it again and again myself; either it's too big or two small. There just isn't a Lego brick that'd be just right, but with all the rigging and canvas piled on, it will be a lot less noticeable. Captain Braunsfeld: Thanks, I rather like these guns myself. They were actually built for Scorpion but the bore seemed too small for that ship (I have my own sizing system) and the barrels were too close to the deck. I built different guns for scorpion and cast these aside. When I started taking Ram Cat seriously I had trouble with the height of the free board and needed more squat guns. I pulled these out and they were a perfect fit! The hats are generally like those in my "hat tutorial", but instead of a round brim I made elliptical ones with Illustrator. The premier's hat (the smarmy looking chap on deck) is of a wider variety to look more fashionable for the time period. Captain Haldon's hat (the officer poring over charts in his tiny cabin) I meant to look a bit more “old fashioned”. It lacks a crown for the top of his head to accommodate his hair piece. Since I bought the #7305 set just have him with his cool scar, dashing grin and styling hair, I didn't want to have to sacrifice that piece or make some kind of hybrid where the hair came out of the bottom of the hat; like Jack Sparrow with his tri-corn. Capt. Stabbin: Thanks, I do feel a bit like the proud parent, who’s child has just started doing just what everyone else’s kids can already do, but is somehow special any way. I have recently started augmenting my collection with small purchases, but my budget is still only a hair above nothing so I keep my orders small and generalized. Ram Cat was never intended to be a primary project but as she developed I started stealing parts from my other projects. I do try to keep the non-Lego bits to a minimum, but in some places there just aren’t equivalent parts. On the wheel I racked my brain quite a while before giving in and making an axle. I’ve seen 2945 (and the like) used as belaying pins on larger ships, but they’d be just too big on Ram Cat. Instead I had dowel sitting around from projects long ago, so I just made my own to scale. That does stoke my pride just a bit and again I thank you. It warms my heart to know I have a fan out there. I do wonder where abouts you call home? Moomin: I too have developed a soft spot for unrated vessels, probably on account of all my literary sea heroes like Jack and Alan. I figure a fleet of small ships is better than a single large one anyway. Most of my creations are part of the same “good guy” fleet but I do have a full on pirate ship in the works. After all I’ll need some “bag guys” at some point, no? The technique is not my innovation to be sure, but I’m loving it and plan to revisit all my previous projects in this style. Mr. Townsend: It’s good to hear that from you! The effect certainly is subtle on this hull but it works. The newer pictures do her much more justice. Kolonialbeamter: I’m so glad that Ram Cat and I are developing a following. A little recognition does make it feel much more worthwhile. After all this I’ve resolved to finish her, though it may still take a while. Ram Cat is already much more complete that most anything I’ve done yet, so I’m OK with where she is now. I hope you guys all share in my contentment with her. Again thanks for the support all and look for a complete Ram Cat in the future.

Ram Cat WIP update: Well all the kind word's and support convinced me to stop whining and get back to work. Thanks guys! I've now take Ram Cat about as far as I can for the moment. All lines except the rat lines and those which attach directly to the sails have been run. Left out are the likes of the halyards, sheets and down hauls on the fore stay sail, jib and flying jib. The rat lines are left off as there is no sense in doing them until the tension of the shrouds is a sure thing. That won't be until after the sails are made and applied; which will take a whole new effort in research and experimentation. Ideally I'd like cloth sails that not only look the part but will actually function and change state (reef or furl). I experimented with this a bit on my fishing sloop, but there I used tee shirt cotton and it only worked so well. For these I'd like something more realistic. I have considered paper sails simply to have a more finished product sooner but those wouldn't change state and then what's the point to all this real rigging? It's not likely I'll be changing the set of her sails very often as it would be a time consuming and delicate process on such a small scale, but to have the inherent option is important to my ideal. I’ve also rebuilt the bow as I wasn’t quite happy with the original on several accounts. It was first a compromise to make the parts I had work and suffered for strength. I was concerned that tension on the lines run to the forward pins would misshape the structure. It wasn’t very astatically pleasing either, seeming to come to a point, much like a far newer vessel. The other issue is one I've been struggling with for some time and was one of the villains in my disheartening before. The hull was completed before the total scope of the project was realized, and as a result I was lacking in belaying pins. To do the rigging correctly I'd need an absolute minimum of 26 but only had 24 pins available. That also left no room for the likes of flag hoists or any other "extra" lines. I don’t know that anyone would really have missed the omitted lines, but building her to function is important to me. I recently acquired new bricks that allowed me to build a stronger, more conventional bow, which afforded me the two more belaying pins I’d need. As the warm weather finally moves in, I’ll have to focus most of my energies elsewhere so she is likely to go, still, unfinished for a while yet. I’m in a good place with the project though and I’ve fallen in love with her once again. There are some imperfections that simply can’t be changed without major reconstruction. I’ve started on another hull of the same variety to experiment with solutions to some of these concerns like; better deck housing or the lack of overhang between the stern post and transom board (she’s kind of flat astern). Ram Cat, to me, is already approaching a master work after having started out as a simple experiment, so I’ll just call these lingering issues “charms” and move on to bigger and better in the future. I would honestly like to display her but for the life of me, have no idea of any events or venues in my area. Can anyone offer any advice on getting started at such a thing? As always, more images here.

Update: If she’s new to you take a moment and read through the whole thread, why not? You might find it intriguing. If you’re already aware of the project here’s a link to Skip to the Update. When I started this project I swore to myself that I wasn't going to do another WIP topic. I didn't want to leave this one open to criticism, mostly because this is still a grand experiment. I also wanted to surprise and astonish my detractors so I sought to finisher her in secret. At this point, many months later, the end is still not in sight. There is still so much to do and so much to figure out; I struggle to keep my enthusiasm. This has become, not just an expensive and time consuming hobby, but a lonely one at that. As depressed as I am over this project and the course of my hobby, I feel it would be a tremendous waste to not show what I have for it all. I may or may not ever finish, but what I've done so far has been quite an investment. For what she is, here is the (perpetually?) incomplete, HMS Ram Cat. She is a 10 gun cutter of the Jamaica variety popular in the later portion of the 18th and into the early 19th centuries. Vessels of this type were often one-off builds, made to order and constructed on temporary timber stocks right on the beach from local sources. They were the hot rods of their day, initially designed to out run pirates. Those same pirates as well as smugglers and national navies adopted them in time, more often than not as prizes. Something like Ram Cat here would likely have started out as a merchant or smuggler built to order. Sometime after putting to sea she'd change hands and ultimately wind up a prize of the royal navy. In need of ships to strengthen the fleet, they'd buy her in and commission her as a sloop. With a lieutenant in command, she could serve many functions either detached or in support of the fleet. Shallow draft vessels such as these are useful for in-shore work, patrolling for pirates and smugglers. I've settled on the name "Ram Cat" inspired by the audio books I've been entertaining throughout the project. Dewy Lambdin's own, Alan "Ram Cat" Lawrey, is indeed her name sake. Why such an unconventional name? Why not? For those who it would entertain I'll offer the excuse of that desperate in-theater commission and an admiral with a sense of humor. The goal of the project was to build on what I had previously developed while adapting to new concepts in order to further my original aspirations of designing most realistic and historically accurate model ships. It has been a long journey, from where I began to where I find myself now. If you’re curious check out my profile for an overview of my development as a Lego ship builder. More Images of Ram Cat

A wire bolt rope is brilliant, kudos! I long theorized using a stiffening agent like starch on the cloth as it dried over a convex surface, like a balloon or ball. This would give a permanent bellow to the sail, but yours would be adjustable. I rather like the concept. I eagerly await the results of your experiment.

I might suggest eliminating the side galleries all together. I think smooth sides right back to the transom would look rather sleek an suit her rig well. Keep the transom windows and the whole cabin, and maybe add to or space out her guns more. In absence of the side galleries perhaps a skylight might brighten the cabin. All IMHO of course. In any case she looking good.

Welcome aboard commodore! I know your struggle with brick supply all too well. I am eager to see this brig of yours as i'm always fascinated to see what methods are invented from necessity. This is a good place to hang around and pick up on new ideas and techniques. There have been quite a few MOCs come through here which serve as good examples of making what you have work. As for sails and mini-figures, you can do amazing things with just an ink jet printer. Have you considered paper sails or customizing figures from non-pirate settings? Also (just to be a little silly) is it really fair to call your self "commodore" if you only command the one brig?

I'm looking for opinions on which style looks better. The right hand one is a conventional torso print. The left is made from the same elements but uses a paper jack, pinned in place over the toros print by the arms. I plan to make one or both of these the standard For the officers of my MOC fleet. All the printing and design was done by me at home on my PC and inkjet printer.

Wow, that's a gigantic frigate! Hard to make out in this image but looks to be full of detail. Can you post more images, or provide us with a link to more?

Wow, she is nice; simple and elegant and the furred, brick built sails are a nice touch. I hate to be this guy, but I am compelled to point out that she is in no way a brigantine. She is actuall full or ship rigged. The third mast is what makes the primary different and in her historical idiom was a significant distinction. Your Excalibur looks oddly familiar as well. Have we seen a version of her before? Thanks for sharing!

Well there goes my thunder... This must be the best galleon ever presented here and is easily one of the best ships ever. Though there is a bit of a gap where the bow transitions, the sheer scope of this project more than over shadows any perceived flaw. The level, of detail and accuracy is astonishing and I have a special love for functional rigging. You have my congratulations and respect for completing the full sail and rigging plan. I love the use of what I've been calling the "bent brick" method, using the natural tolerance of the Legos to curve the hull organically. I've been working on a method using this technique my self but no where near anything on this scale, yet. I have to thank you for sharing as in one motion you have rendered me both incredibly envious and inspired. Cheers to you and your Revenge!

Perhaps it's just me, but all I see is a black square.

Brilliant! Looks identical to me. Here's a dumb question though; Does the ink still sink in to the fabric or is it just on the surface? I wonder if the gesso could be washed off leaving the sail more flexible but still with a printed design.