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allanp

Eurobricks Grand Dukes
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Everything posted by allanp

  1. allanp
    You could use an XL motor, but it's mechanicle power output is not much above half that of the buggy motor, and then you also need to gear up the XL motor which will cost you some more power. If you want any speed at all, the buggy motor is the way to go. You can get some speed from the PF motors but compared to the buggy motor they are left in the dust!
  2. allanp
    Haha, it was totally awesome to finally meet you, it was like seeing a very good friend not seen for years. Very much looking forward to the next time
  3. allanp
    Looking forward to it.
  4. allanp
    Devon is wonderful, my second favorite part of the world actually, my first favorite being vagas!
  5. allanp
    You mean like this? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p4VLhnTZpb8
  6. allanp
    I've sent you a PM
  7. allanp
    I guess the best way would be to ask for a photo of it next to a modern one so you could compare and see that the one you want is darker and a bit thicker I think.
  8. allanp
    HA! Just for the record matey , I made flying lego first by simply putting a standard technic prop directly (but not all the way) onto a 9v ungeared motor, from the floor it had enough gusto to whack the ceiling! That was in about 1995.
  9. allanp
    This has the same problem as the official crane
  10. allanp
    Awesome man awesome! You have proved the concept that Lego parts alone can generate enough lift to lift it's own weight, well done for proving the abominable "no" men wrong! Can't wait to see more. As for Lego releasing an actual flying set, i'm not so sure. Maybe, in many many years. However I remember seeing a toy rescue helicopter thing that was mounted to an arm that could go up and down and rotate, by changing the speed of the rotors and the angle of the heli you could fly it up and down, round and round and try to pick up a man on a stretcher and drop him off on a landing pad. I could easily see something like that from Lego even next year.
  11. allanp
    My guess is that many people who had these sets in their childhood are now adults looking to make money and not being into technic for many years they don't know their value and so are selling them at RRP thinking they are getting a good deal selling something used and 20 years old for their original selling price. The majority of more recent sets like 8421 are still owned by people who are perhaps not quite adults looking to pay the mortage yet.
  12. allanp
    Oh no, they're still better than the 8880 hubs IMHO.
  13. allanp
    I've only really noticed this when using the wheels from 8448, the holes in that wheel don't seem to be deep enough, but I will double check with other wheels.
  14. allanp
    I agree, and yes, we should be....erm....punctual? as in on time?
  15. allanp
    I have an old auto chassis from 1980 and the parts still fit and work as new. Not bad for a heavily played with 33 year old toy! Of all my 80000+ parts I have no idea and no way of telling the age of any single one of them as they all look and function like new (apart from some elecronic parts like wires and micro motors, wonder where they were made )
  16. allanp
    Yes I have played around with this and they work fine. It's less bulky than crowkillers suggestions however there is also a bit of play in the pre-existing ball joint parts whereas crowkillers suggestions are held more firmly but not enough to restrict movement. On the whole I prefere his suggestions, but for creating weird and wonderful geometries that really do need a ball joint it's very nice to know that the old 6L arms still works fine, better than the old hubs, due to their increased size the effect of the play in the ball and socket is less than it was in the old hubs.
  17. allanp
    Unimog, unimog, unimog, unimog, uniomo...... ......how long do you want me to say unimog?!
  18. allanp
  19. allanp
    What part of the world are you in?
  20. allanp
    Spray paint is a terrible way to go for chroming parts. The paint will be too think and never looks chrome to me, always metallic grey like the silver champion. The shops that sell custom chromed parts on bricklink will more than likely have them sent out to a proffesional facility that specialises in chrome plating. The best way to go would be to find a seller on bricklink that either sells the parts you want already or if not, can have them chromed for you. I would not advise trying to find a company yourself because, unless you are getting large quantaties done, you will not get the same bulk discounts as a bricklink seller might get and more importantly because results vary hugely. The bricklink sellers will have a tried and tested supplier for chromed parts so it's much more likely that you'll get good results.
  21. allanp
    Reading through the topic it sounds as tho there is a problem with the IR reciever. Have you contacted Lego customer services yet? They are very good when it comes to missing/faulty parts, they will quickly send you a new unit free of charge. Do you have any other sets that comes with a reciever? Doesn't matter if it's not a v2 reciever you can still use it to test it. To change the batteries you must pull back the pin with the blue pieces on it which allows you to lift up the red beam above the battery box.
  22. allanp
    I won't do it again since the 8868! Well I was only 8 when I built it Gekke ted, when you did it in the unimog, shouldn't the middle diff have allowed it to still move but without the engine turning?
  23. allanp
    I like that the size has increased, it makes a more stable joint and more in scale with most, if not all models that use them. I've been playing around using the rear ones for making all kinds of steering geometries, I can confirm that after years of those aweful and very limiting hubs we used to have, these are an absolute joy to work with.
  24. allanp
  25. allanp
    Aw he's just making conversation. When your missus asks you hows your day been do you ask her to stop spamming you with useless informations?
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