allanp

Looks very smooth and pretty awesome. Looks even better with all those other rides around. This a new theme i'de love to see from TLG!

I've got a few good ideas, but in the words of the Joker, if you're good at something never do it for free!

Nice format. I think the new hub parts are worthy of a mention in the parts for the grand prix racer.

That piece also has the hole between two studs, not directly on top of a stud which will give it a bit more clearence. In the example given by TLG it was a single stud brick with a single hole directly over the stud. As for the smooth connector used for driving rings, i'm not sure if it's legal (I doubt it cos of the notch pins being bent over time) but the reason I personally don't do this is because if you are using the change over lever to hold the driving ring in place you are creating friction between the two which is not good.

Hope it's not RC, that would be boring IMHO.

Up uranus gear? Nice designs.

I knew philosophy wasn't dead, anyone who says it is is ignorant of philosophy

Yes I think it's a personal matter, build in whatever way gives you the most pleasure. As with any hobby the most important thing is the enjoyment you get out of it. Obviously we will not all agree on how best to achieve that because we are all different. However I think the question this topic is trying to answer is what conditions does a MOC have to satisfy in order to be called a "pure" technic MOC. I think that is something that we can agree on aside from some tiny details. However i'm not sure that it's all that important anyway. I have posted my conditions above. Like I said, feel free to ignore them BTW, on the issue of limitations, I can see how limitations can force someone to be more creative, however I can see how having no limitations can lead to the finished product being more creative.

The 8t to 28t gear combination I found to be very useful when driving the old 28t differencials.

Well, if you have an 8880 box complete with the little special parts tray (the little square clear tray) i'de be happy to take that off your hands

I remember walking into a womens toilet whe I was young, problem is I didn't know it was a womens toilet until I left, and I didn't go into a cubicle, so what trough did I piss in?????? Whilst working for a major company they had one of those massive blimps the size of an 18 wheeler to advertise it's whereabouts which I happened to crash into the roof of the factory! Shortly afetrwards I noticed a piece of equipment on top of a full bin in the workshop, and so I emptied the bin and smashed the piece of equipment into a billion pieces in the process which inevitably lead to my boss later asking me "have you seen it, i've spent all day putting it back together." To which I replied "um, nooooooooo. Oh, btw, i've emptied the bins like you told me to!" then walked off

That's fine, all you are doing it getting it to work like Lego intended.

I remember something being said about that to. Didn't it come from the rep who was showing it off at a toy fair? They have not come out yet. People are just sketching ideas for when they do come out.

22.75 degree. I don't know, build it and find out.

Yey, I have that rule too! I also like to use the full length of any beam, there must not be an unused bit at the end like if you need a 12L beam and you use a 13L beam. Same goes with any part, I don't like those little unused bits which you never used to get but seem to be getting more of now in sets. I also share your no staking of too many beams! My rule is slightly different, avoid LAs altogether!

There's also the case of the infamous 3l blue connector peg used in the 8043! Even TLG designers do things that are against the rules

I think she's built it wrong Here's my own rules for qualifying of the classifications of "pure technic". Batteries of the type prescribed by TLG are allowed. Cutting ribbed hoses and pneumatic tubing is allowed. Painting/colouring/chroming parts and custom stickers are allowed in moderation. Cutting and gluing parts is prohibited. Same goes for scratch built parts, altering the material properties of parts, deforming parts or removing the internal gearing from motors (done that to an XL motor, it's wonderful! But not pure Lego). However it is at times frustrating when they don't make the parts you want. How on earth have they not got round to making more sizes of the synchromesh gear yet, or longer pneumatics, or..... Third party tyres are normally Prohibited. However if the model still performs fine without third party tyres then it's deemed to be only a minor cosmetic change (like chroming wheels) and so is allowed. Using lubricants is not allowed. However there are exceptions for working models used for display and events (however they should work fine without lubrication) and a suitable lubricant for pneumatics is allowed to prevent any kind of deterioration of the seals or metal parts. As far as i'm concerned, thems the rules. Feel free to ignore them

The most I have had was 8 m-motors in a v8 configuration running a single axle (also in a dragster) and had no problems.

I like both your ideas, especially the double half pin. Instead of me hijacking this thread, maybe we could keep it to the most fundamental of parts like pins and connectors.

Best thing to do is to time how long it takes to drive it across your living room. Then attemp the challenge yourself a few times then again time how long it takes to drive across your living room and see if there is much difference.

Yes it's possible and you don't need a differencial gear. Using a differencial may give you some minor efficiency benefits (or losses) but hardly noticeable if at all. Just make sure the motors are geared so they spin the same direction and speed, that way you will be sure to not harm your motors. The stress from the motors running at very slightly different speeds is nothing compared to the stress on the motors when in normal use. For an example of where this is done in an official set, look at the power puller. It comes with a motor and gives instructions for adding a second motor. A more recent example is the crawler. When it's driving on the ground the motors are technicly linked directly to each other without differencial via a huge "gear" known as the earth!

I guess it would be one "L", like useless and useful. But it's a made up word so I guess he could have spelt it schtoodphuuuulz if he wanted.

I bet conchas is just laughing cos he knows that i'm the only one with all the info.....whoops!

Real RC cars that are similar in price the the crawler perform waaaaaay better, it's like comparing a ferrari to a scooter. You can pick up RC toys for $50 that perform as well as the $200 crawler. So, yeah, Lego RC is very expensive compared to similar performing non-lego RC, but it's infinately more customisable.

More technic related, but for me it's probably RC. It's ok I guess, but it's very expensive to do and so diminishes the rest of the set.